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Actualmente operador lo ajusta, no esta definido en receta" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Flujo Tobera", "% apertura", "0", "100%", "Operador", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se ajusta para lograr rotación en determinado tiempo" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Velocidad Rodete", "RPM", "0", "600", "Operador", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se ajusta para lograr rotación en determinado tiempo" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Apertura Tobera", "% apertura", "0", "6", "Operador", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se ajusta para lograr rotación en determinado tiempo" ], [ "Hidraulico", "Vaciado", "Tiempo", "min", "1", "999", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido", "" ], [ "TEÑIDO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "GRUPO", "Tongeng", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "MODELO", "SOFT TRD", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "CAPACIDAD:", "20 Kg x 1 Cuerdas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "", "", "", "", "", "Responsable", "Responsable", "", "" ], [ "Categoria", "Paso", "Parametro", "Unidad", "Valor Minimo", "Valor Max", "Ejecutar", "Definir", "Column 10", "Observacion" ], [ "Hidraulico", "Llenado", "Cantidad agua", "Litros", "0%", "100%", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido", "Nivel Minimo para operar depende de articulo y cantidad de tela a procesar." ], [ "Hidraulico", "Llenado", "Valvula ingreso", "#", "0", "2", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "No se registra", "" ], [ "Adicion", "Adicion Quimicos", "Volumen a introducir", "Litros", "0", "300 Lts", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "No esta definido actualmente" ], [ "Temperatura", "Calentamiento", "Temperatura final", "°C", "30", "130", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Temperatura", "Calentamiento", "Gradiente", "°C \/ min", "0.1", "3", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Temperatura", "Enfriamiento", "Temperatura final", "°C", "30", "130", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Temperatura", "Enfriamiento", "Gradiente", "°C \/ min", "0.1", "3", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Temperatura", "Mantenimiento", "Temperatura.", "°C", "30", "130", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Temperatura", "Mantenimiento", "Tiempo", "min", "1", "999", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido \/ Programa PLC", "" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Presion diferencial Bomba", "% maximo", "0", "100%", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "No se registra", "Actualmente se trabaja con % bomba. Actualmente operador lo ajusta, no esta definido en receta" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Flujo Tobera", "% apertura", "0", "100%", "Mecanico", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se debe desarmar para cambiar a otro tamaño de la boquilla" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Velocidad Rodete", "RPM", "0", "600", "Operador", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se ajusta para lograr rotación en determinado tiempo" ], [ "Movimiento Tela", "Circulacion tela", "Apertura Tobera", "% apertura", "0", "6", "Operador", "Supervisor", "No se registra", "Se ajusta para lograr rotación en determinado tiempo" ], [ "Hidraulico", "Vaciado", "Tiempo", "min", "1", "999", "PLC\/Operador", "Receta Lab", "Receta Teñido", "" ] ] }, "Acabado": { "total_rows": 127, "total_cols": "K", "preview": [ [ "ACABADOS", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "Responsable", "Responsable", "", "" ], [ "Categoria", "Ubiacion", "Parametro", "Unidad", "Valor Minimo", "Valor 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detectarse desviacion", "Manual si se observa desviacion en el tejido" ], [ "ENDEREZADO", "Correccion tejido", "", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra \/ solo se corrige al detectarse desviacion", "Manual si se observa desviacion en el tejido" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Ancho Cadena", "Cm", "", "", "", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "Cuaderno de registro", "" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Sobrealimentacion rodillo 1", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "Cuaderno de registro", "Se ajusta para llegar a Peso, Ancho, stretch" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Sobrealimentacion rodillo 2", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "Cuaderno de registro", "Se ajusta para llegar a Peso, Ancho, stretch" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Desentorchador Orilla", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", 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"Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "TERMICO", "Campo 2", "% Ventilador campo 2", "", "30", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "TERMICO", "Campo 3", "% Ventilador campo 3", "", "30", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "TERMICO", "Campo 4", "% Ventilador campo 4", "", "30", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "TERMICO", "Campo 5", "% Ventilador campo 5", "", "", "", "", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "No tiene" ], [ "TERMICO", "Campo 6", "% Ventilador campo 6", "", "", "", "", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "No tiene" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Horno", "% Ventilador extraccion Chimenea", "", "30", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 1", "Apertura tobera 1 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 1", "Apertura tobera 1 abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 2", "Apertura tobera 2 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 2", "Apertura tobera 2 abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 3", "Apertura tobera 3 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 3", "Apertura tobera 3 abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 4", "Apertura tobera 4 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 4", "Apertura tobera 4 abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 5", "Apertura tobera 5 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 5", "Apertura tobera 5 abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 6", "Apertura tobera 6 abajo izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 6", "Apertura tobera 6abajo Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 1", "Apertura tobera 1 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 1", "Apertura tobera 1 Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 2", "Apertura tobera 2 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 2", "Apertura tobera 2 Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 3", "Apertura tobera 3 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 3", "Apertura tobera 3 Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 4", "Apertura tobera 4 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 4", "Apertura tobera 4 Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 5", "Apertura tobera 5 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 5", "Apertura tobera 5 Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 6", "Apertura tobera 6 Arriba izquierda", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Campo 6", "Apertura tobera 6Arriba Derecha", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "De Cerrado a completamente abierto marcas de 25%" ], [ "FLUJO AIRE", "Enfriamiento", "% Ventilador enfriamiento salida", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "" ], [ "SALIDA", "Salida", "Corte de orilla", "", "N\/A", "", "N\/A", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "Binario: Cortar o no Cortar" ], [ "SALIDA", "Salida", "Plegado \/ Caballete \/ Inspeccion Rollo", "", "N\/A", "", "N\/A", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "Seleccion entre: Plegado, Caballete o directo inspeccion Rollo" ], [ "SALIDA", "Salida", "Apertura plegado", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "No se registra.", "Recorrido de plegado" ], [ "SALIDA", "Salida", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "Responsable", "Responsable", "", "" ], [ "Categoria", "Ubiacion", "Parametro", "Unidad", "Valor Minimo", "Valor Normal", "Valor Max", "Ejecutar", "Definir", "Donde se documenta hoy", "Observacion" ], [ "", "", "Velocidad", "Mts\/min", "10", "", "40", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Ancho Salida", "Pulgadas", "", "", "", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Presion compensador estante", "bar", "-5", "", "5", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Presion compensador J entrada", "bar", "-5", "0.6", "5", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Sobrealimentacion despues J", "%", "-20%", "0%", "20%", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Presion Cilindro traccion J", "Bar", "-5", "1", "5", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Abridor 1 antes foular", "%", "-100%", "25%", "100%", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "", "", "Abridor 2 antes foular", "%", "-100%", "25%", "100%", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "FOULARD", "Exprimido", "Presion Fular", "N", "0", "40", "50", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "FOULARD", "Exprimido", "Nivel Canoa", "%", "0", "60%", "100%", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "FOULARD", "Exprimido", "Temperatura canoa", "°C", "0", "27", "99", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "ENDEREZADO", "Correccion tejido", "Mahlo: Correccion Bow", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Manual si se observa desviacion en el tejido" ], [ "ENDEREZADO", "Correccion tejido", "Mahlo: Correccion centrado", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Manual si se observa desviacion en el tejido" ], [ "ENDEREZADO", "Correccion tejido", "", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Manual si se observa desviacion en el tejido" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Sobrealimentacion rodillo 1", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Se ajusta para llegar a Peso, Ancho, stretch" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Sobrealimentacion rodillo 2", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Se ajusta para llegar a Peso, Ancho, stretch" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Desentorchador Orilla", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", "Sobrealimentación Cadena", "", "0", "", "100", "Operador", "Ficha tela + Gte Acabado", "", "Se ajusta para llegar a Peso, Ancho, stretch" ], [ "MECANICO", "Entrada a Cadena", 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Poliester", "POLYESTER", "TE8B451A7", "" ], [ "TEX 24 POLY", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "Hilo costura Tex 24 Poliester", "POLYESTER", "TG8B424A8", "" ], [ "VS-001", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "170\/136 NYLON", "NYLON", "953217T", "" ], [ "VS-002", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "100% POLYESTER", "POLYESTER", "5T063", "" ], [ "ACYN-0009", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "78\/34 1Circular Semi Mate Stretch Tangleado Bicono RECICLADO", "NYLON", "302203", "" ], [ "ATYN-0011", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "100\/ 68-1 Circular Mate Voluminizado Bicono", "NYLON", "302205", "" ], [ "ATYN-0006B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "340\/204-1 CIRCULAR MATE VOLUMINIZADO BICONO 0", "NYLON", "302207", "" ], [ "DTY-0040B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY SD 1 150 144 1H Z SNA 100 % Polyester", "POLYESTER", "G4B155A1", "" ], [ "ATYN-0017", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "ATY N6 320\/192 FD TASLAN", "SPANDEX COVERED YARN", "PPF32192AF8-9", "" ], [ "DTY-0073", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY170\/140\/1 PA STR", "POLYESTER", "1701401-31023HAI", "" ], [ "DTY-0029B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY 300\/D96F\/2P 1H ECOTECH 100% PCR", "POLYESTER", "SZ603W", "" ], [ "ACY-0036", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "ACY 75\/36 T400+40 Spandex", "POLYESTER", "SSM-3", "" ], [ "ATYN-0015", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "ATYN 70\/68 X4 FD6 TASLAN", "NYLON", "SSM-1", "" ], [ "ACYN-0024", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "NFY 70\/68\/2 FD+ELS 40", "NYLON", "SSM-4", "" ], [ "ATYN-0016", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "ATYN 70\/68 X 5 FD 6 TASLAN", "NYLON", "SSM-2", "" ], [ "DTY-0043B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY SD50D\/72F 1H", "POLYESTER", "50165A", "" ], [ "DTY-0055B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY RS100D\/96 1H ECOTECH -W 100 % POLYESTER", "POLYESTER", "RS19009H", "" ], [ "ACYN-0025", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "Nylon 66 70\/68 X 3 +Licra 40", "NYLON", "SSM-5", "" ], [ "ACY-0040", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY 180\/144 +ELS 40\/1 SD", "POLYESTER", "C3E1402K", "" ], [ "DTY-0064", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY170 \/136 FD ROUND", "POLYESTER", "5N399A", "" ], [ "DTY-0063C", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY RS 75D\/72F 1H ECOTECH 100% PCR", "POLYESTER", "RS79119H", "" ], [ "DTY-0093", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "SD R\/W 150D\/36F 2H - TEX 18", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC13530A", "" ], [ "DTY-0094", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "SD R\/W 200D\/48F 2H - TEX 24", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC24104U", "" ], [ "ATYN-0019", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "ATYN 70\/68 X4, NILIT\/SUMMITEX", "NYLON", "SSM-7", "" ], [ "DTY-0093B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "SD R\/W 150D\/36F 2H - TEX 18", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC13532A", "" ], [ "DTY-0094B", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "SD R\/W 200D\/48F 2H - TEX 24", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC24096U-2", "" ], [ "DTY-0101", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY 55DTEX \/72F 1H SD AA GRADE", "POLYESTER", "C1147411S4", "" ], [ "DTY-0102", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY 83DTEX \/72F 1H SD AA GRADE", "POLYESTER", "G213111S1", "" ], [ "ACY-0047", "19 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "50D\/72F 1H+20D LYCRA", "", "S-985A", "" ], [ "DTY-0094C", "19 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "200D\/48F 2H SD R\/W - TEX 24", "", "T\/WC24102U", "" ], [ "ACY-0002B", "19 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "75D\/72 F 1H+LYCRA 40D", "", "AC77001", "" ], [ "DTY-0093C", "19 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "150D\/36F 2H SD R\/W TEX 18", "", "T\/WC13544N", "" ], [ "DTY-0055C", "17 Jan 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "RS 100D\/96F 1H ECOTECH 100 % PCR", "POLYESTER", "RS19029H", "" ], [ "DTY-0063A", "17 Jan 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "RS 75D\/72F 1H ECOTECH 100% PCR", "POLYESTER", "RS79177H", "" ], [ "DTY-0119B", "22 Apr 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75\/70 1 SIM STR SD", "POLYESTER", "030-25-HYO", "" ], [ "LYC-0001", "16 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "LYCRA 40D FIBER", "SPANDEX", "4633\/1F049", "" ], [ "LYC-0001D", "16 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "LYCRA 40D FIBER", "SPANDEX", "358\/1F906", "" ], [ "LCY-0001", "16 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "40D LYCRA FIBER", "SPANDEX", "4633 \/ 1F049", "" ], [ "ODOO1", "21 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "200D\/48F 2H SD R\/W - TEX 24", "NYLON", "123", "" ], [ "ACY-0040A", "17 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "185\/144 + 40\/1 RECICLADO", "POLYESTER", "CV0011K,62,23", "" ], [ "DTY-0064A", "17 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 170\/136 FD ROUND", "POLYESTER", "P5R160A.MRR23", "" ], [ "ACY-0058", "18 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75\/70 1 HIM STR+LYCRA", "POLYESTER", "052-25R", "" ], [ "DTY-0133", "28 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "YN,MLB FT PET 3 150\/34 SD", "POLYESTER", "255", "" ], [ "PRB-HILO", "5 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "HILO PRUEBA", "", "1", "" ], [ "ACY-PR4", "17 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "ACY 75\/72 SD + ELS 40\/1", "Polyester 100%", "S-41044", "" ], [ "ACY-0029D", "13 Dec 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD 75D\/144F 1H + 40D LYCRA", "POLYESTER", "AC71007", "" ], [ "ACY-0007", "16 Jan 2026", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "87% PCR, 13% SP DTY 75\/144 1H 40 SD HIM", "87% PCR, 13% SP", "RS71001H", "" ], [ "ACY-0060", "13 Feb 2026", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "DTY 75\/70 1H ELS 40\/1 SD HIM", "PES 87% EA 13%", "011-26", "" ], [ "ACY-0006", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 100\/96 SD ELS 40", "POLYESTER", "S-761U(Z)", "" ], [ "ACY-0006A", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 100\/96 SD ELS 40", "POLYESTER", "S-873U", "" ], [ "IT-PRUEBA", "25 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "", "HILO", "POLYESTER 71% ELASTOMULTIESTER", "123", "" ], [ "SCY-004", "11 Mar 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY SD 75\/72 + SPANDEX 40D", "POLYESTER", "HM0127-1", "" ], [ "SCYN-0001", "11 Mar 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY SD 72\/68 + 40D", "NYLON", "HM0120-1", "" ], [ "LYC-0001B", "2 Dec 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "LYCRA 40D FIBER", "", "1F587", "" ], [ "DTY-0101A", "25 Jan 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "100 % POLYESTER YARN DTY 55DTEX \/72F SIM 1H", "POLYESTER", "C1174IS5", "" ], [ "DTY-0102A", "25 Jan 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "100 % POLYESTER DTY 83DTEX\/72F SIM 1H", "POLYESTER", "G21291IS4", "" ], [ "DTY-0120", "24 Apr 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "YN,MLB,FT,PET, 2\/150\/34 SD,CCT,SZ", "POLYESTER", "218", "" ], [ "DTY-0119C", "12 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75\/70 1 SIM STR SD", "POLYESTER", "033-25-HAI", "" ], [ "DTY-0055D", "15 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "RS 100D\/96F 1H ECOTECH 100 % PCR", "POLYESTER", "RS19043H", "" ], [ "ACY-0500", "30 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "75\/144 ELS 40", "POLYESTER", "SSM-14", "" ], [ "DTY-PRB1", "11 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H HIM + ELS 40\/1", "Recycled Polyester 86% Spandex 14%", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0026B", "27 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD 50\/72 1H +LYCRA 20D", "POLYESTER", "AC50001", "" ], [ "DTY-0064B", "5 Dec 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 170\/136 FD ROUND", "POLYESTER", "P5R421A.MRR23", "" ], [ "ACY-0040B", "5 Dec 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "185\/144 + 40\/1 RECICLADO", "POLYESTER", "CV0026K,62,23", "" ], [ "DTY-0015B", "15 Nov 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "Lycra T400 fiber 75 Den.36 Fil.", "Lycra T400 fiber 75 Den.36 Fil.", "370-5TO73", "" ], [ "ACY-0029", "5 Dec 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD 75D\/144F 1H + 40D LYCRA", "POLYESTER", "S-1045A", "" ], [ "DTY-0094D", "11 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD RW 200D\/48F 2H", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC24108A-4", "" ], [ "DTY-0094E", "11 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD RW 200D\/48F 2H", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC24110A-R", "" ], [ "DTY-0094F", "11 Jul 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "SD RW 200D\/48F 2H", "POLYESTER", "T\/WC24112A", "" ], [ "ACY-0502", "5 Jun 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75 \/144 SD + ELS 40\/1", "POLYESTER", "SSM-16", "" ], [ "ACY-0061", "19 Feb 2026", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "PES RECICLADO 87%, EA 7% DTY 75\/70 1H 40 SD HIM", "PES RECICLADO 87%, EA 7%", "110-26 R", "" ], [ "ACY-0003", "2 Jul 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 35\/36 SD 1H ELS 20\/1", "POLYESTER", "S-697A", "" ], [ "DTY-0112A", "23 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY RS1 75\/144 1H Z-N-NA", "POLYESTER", "S-G6A375A1", "" ], [ "ACY-0501", "17 Jun 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 75\/144 X2 SDT ELS40 UTEXSA", "POLYESTER", "SSM-15", "" ], [ "DTY-0131", "14 Jun 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "YN MLB FT PET 2 150\/72SD", "POLYESTER", "320", "" ], [ "DTY-0123", "14 Jun 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "YN, MLB FT PET 2 150\/50 SD", "POLYESTER", "5", "" ], [ "PFC-0003", "11 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "100 % SPUN POLYESTER 40\/2", "POLYESTER", "YFR-27-2", "" ], [ "DTY-0119D", "20 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "ECOFIL DTY75\/70 1 SIM STR SD", "POLYESTER", "188-25-R", "" ], [ "ACY-0010", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0011", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0012", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0013", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0036P", "2 Dec 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "POY 135\/144 + LYCRA 40D", "POLYESTER", "SSM-13", "" ], [ "DTY-0101B", "24 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "100 % POLYESTER YARN DTY 55DTEX \/72F SIM 1H", "POLYESTER", "C11741IS7", "" ], [ "ACY-0006B", "28 Apr 2023", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 100\/96 1H + SP 40D", "POLYESTER", "S-873U", "" ], [ "ACY-0008", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 200\/192 SD ELS 40", "", "0", "" ], [ "ACY-0009", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0014", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0015", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0016", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ACY-0017", "", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "", "", "", "" ], [ "POY-0001", "11 Oct 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "POY 135 DTEX \/144F SD AA GRADE", "POLYESTER", "HMF485H", "" ], [ "ACY-0053A", "26 May 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "PET DTY SD 75\/144 1H + SPAN 40D", "POLYESTER", "25002", "" ], [ "LYC-0002", "20 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "20 Denier Lycra Fiber T5821 TUBES", "SPANDEX", "623\/1F339-S", "" ], [ "DTY-0102B", "24 Nov 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "100 % POLYESTER DTY 83DTEX\/72F SIM 1H", "POLYESTER", "G21311IS3", "" ], [ "ACY-0001", "2 Jul 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 75\/72 SD ELS 40\/1", "POLYESTER", "S-410420", "" ], [ "ACY-0004", "2 Jul 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 50\/72 SD 1H ELS 40\/1", "POLYESTER", "S-696A", "" ], [ "ACY-0005", "2 Jul 2024", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "LB", "DTY 170\/147 SD ELS 40", "POLYESTER", "B-1722YO", "" ], [ "DTY-0122", "14 Jun 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "YN, MLB FT PET 1 150\/50 SD", "POLYESTER", "272", "" ], [ "DTY-0108", "16 Dec 2025", "PRODUCT", "ACTIVE", "KG", "DTY 83DTEX \/72F 1H SD", "POLYESTER", "326181AF", "" ] ] }, "YarnParameters": { "total_rows": 36, "total_cols": "A", "preview": [ [ "ACY-0060B" ], [ "Basic Information" ], [ "Code" ], [ "ACY-0060B" ], [ "Lote" ], [ "034-26 HYO" ], [ "Description" ], [ "PES 87%, EA 13% DTY 75\/70 1 40 SD HIM" ], [ "Texturizado" ], [ "DTY" ], [ "Unit Measure" ], [ "Dnr Dctx 2" ], [ "75" ], [ "Filamentos" ], [ "70" ], [ "Heats" ], [ "1" ], [ "Spandex" ], [ "40" ], [ "Lustre" ], [ "SD" ], [ "Compactado" ], [ "HIM" ], [ "Composicion" ], [ "PES 87%, EA 13%" ], [ "Proveedor" ], [ "TTA" ], [ "Origen" ], [ "GT" ], [ "Cafta" ], [ "No Sc" ], [ "Fecha Ingreso" ], [ "Fri, 15 May 2026 06:00:00 GMT" ] ] } }, "spec_fabric": { "Legend & Instructions": { "total_rows": 15, "total_cols": "C", "preview": [ [ "LEGEND — TESTING REQUIREMENTS MATRIX", "", "" ], [ "How to read the brand columns in the Testing Specifications sheet", "", "" ], [ "REQUIRED", "Brand explicitly requires this test at bulk production stage. A passing report is mandatory before shipment.", "" ], [ "OPTIONAL", "Test is relevant for certain product types, fabric categories, or functional claims — not universally required.", "" ], [ "N\/A", "Not applicable for this brand's product range or explicitly excluded.", "" ], [ "NOT SPECIFIED", "The brand's sourced documentation does not specify a requirement for this test. Does not mean not required — consult brand's full testing manual.", "" ], [ "SEE NOTES", "Requirement is conditional or complex — read the note in the cell for details.", "" ], [ "Brand", "Document Source", "Key Focus" ], [ "Columbia \/ MHW", "MR_Color_TechnicalColorManual_June_2025.pdf (V.6 2025)", "Colorfastness requirements explicitly tabulated. Performance testing per RMM\/RMTL (separate document). Two-stage approval: Lab Dip (ALD) → Production Standard (APS). DEcmc tolerances: ALD\/APS ≤1.0 to DCS; BRS ≤0.3 to APS." ], [ "Fanatics", "Fanatics_Traceability_Policy_V2_April_2025.pdf", "Supply chain traceability and chain of custody ONLY. No performance test thresholds specified. Key requirements: 4-tier supplier mapping, chain of custody docs within 7 days of request, fiber origin certification, GRS\/scope certificates for sustainability claims." ], [ "Alo Yoga", "RMID_MANUAL_V2_1_April_2025.pdf", "14-step fabric development process. Testing via SGS or accredited 3rd party. Full package testing on black bulk yardage per Care Code and end-use (loose\/tight fit). Thresholds in separate Alo Testing Manual. Heat Transfer testing explicitly required. Marginal acceptance possible for performance (not RSL)." ], [ "VF Corp \/ TNF", "VF_RSL_Testing_Factory_boarding_FY2026_ENG.pdf", "Formal Product Stewardship framework. RSL testing annually — NON-NEGOTIABLE. Performance testing per each brand's individual manual. Two stages: SMS + Bulk. Via Interlink platform. VF nominated labs only. Max 2 re-tests. CAP required for RSL\/Product Safety failures. PFC compliance via CHEM-IQ STA." ] ] }, "Fabric Specifications": { "total_rows": 45, "total_cols": "O", "preview": [ [ "SYNTHETIC WOVEN FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS — MASTER FRAMEWORK", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Covers: Polyester (PES) · Nylon\/Polyamide (PA) · Elastane (EA) — Pillars: Commercial Specifications | Technical Specifications", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Pillar", "#", "Attribute", "Description", "Unit \/ System", "Min Value", "Max Value", "Possible Value 1", "Possible Value 2", "Possible Value 3", "Possible Value 4", "Possible Value 5", "Possible Value 6", "Common Combinations", "Industry Standards \/ Notes" ], [ "▌ PILLAR 1: COMMERCIAL SPECIFICATIONS — Marketability, Aesthetics, Sourcing & Compliance", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "1", "Fabric Classification & Name", "The standard trade\/commercial name that identifies the fabric construction and aesthetic character. Drives design expectations, sourcing conversations, and catalog communication across all teams.", "Trade Name", "—", "—", "Taffeta", "Oxford", "Ripstop", "Microfiber", "Chiffon", "Georgette \/ Crepe", "Ripstop + DWR finish; Taffeta + Cire calendering; Softshell + fleece laminate; Microfiber + peach finish", "No universal ISO standard for naming; names are trade conventions. Clarify construction details (weave + weight + finish) to avoid ambiguity between mills." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "2", "Fiber Composition & Blend", "The exact fiber content by percentage. Determines dyeing method, hand-feel, stretch behavior, sustainability certifications, care instructions, and end-use performance.", "% by weight", "—", "—", "100% Polyester (PES)", "100% Nylon 6", "100% Nylon 6.6", "90% Nylon \/ 10% Elastane", "88% Poly \/ 12% Elastane", "rPET (Recycled PES) \/ Econyl (Recycled Nylon)", "100% Nylon + bare elastane for swimwear; rPET + C0 DWR for sustainability compliance; Nylon 6.6 preferred for higher abrasion applications", "ISO 2076 \/ EN ISO 1833 for fiber identification. Declare recycled content for GRS. Blends above 15% elastane require elastane-specific seam slippage testing." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "3", "Weave Structure Type", "The interlacing pattern of warp and weft yarns that determines fabric stability, tear strength, hand, and visual appearance. Critical for pricing (more complex = higher cost).", "Weave Type", "—", "—", "Plain Weave", "2\/1 or 3\/1 Twill", "Ripstop (grid reinforced)", "Dobby (geometric repeat)", "Jacquard (complex figure)", "Satin \/ Sateen (5-8 shaft)", "Plain weave + ripstop grid for lightweight packable shells; Satin + high thread count for luxury linings; Dobby + DWR for technical outerwear", "Ripstop grid sizes specified as WxH mm (e.g., 2×2mm, 5×5mm). For Jacquard, clarify lift repeat and color count — impacts loom setup cost significantly." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "4", "Weave — Ripstop Grid Size", "For ripstop fabrics only: the dimensions (in mm) of the reinforcing grid formed by heavier interlaced yarns. Smaller grids = stronger, denser; larger grids = lighter, more packable.", "mm (W × H)", "2", "10", "2×2 mm", "3×3 mm", "4×4 mm", "5×5 mm", "7×7 mm", "10×10 mm", "2×2mm with 20D nylon for ultra-light shelters; 5×5mm with 70D poly for luggage; often paired with silicone or PU coating", "Grid size is a structural\/engineering spec — must appear on mill spec sheet. Inconsistent grid sizing across production lots is a common quality defect." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "5", "Fabric Weight", "Weight per unit area. The single most important commercial attribute for classification. Drives end-use suitability, cost, shipping weight, and minimum-order economics.", "GSM \/ oz·yd²", "20", "1000", "Ultra-light\/Downproof: 20–50 GSM", "Lightweight: 50–100 GSM", "Midweight: 100–175 GSM", "Midweight+: 175–250 GSM", "Heavyweight: 250–500 GSM", "Technical\/Luggage: 500–1000 GSM", "20–40 GSM: downproof linings, ultralight wind jackets; 70–120 GSM: active\/sportswear shells; 200–300 GSM: bags, upholstery; 600–1000 GSM: luggage\/cases", "ISO 3801 \/ ASTM D3776. Weight must be measured after finishing (not greige weight). Tolerances typically ±5% on delivered goods. Convert: 1 oz\/yd² = 33.9 GSM." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "6", "Fabric Width — Total", "Full loom width from selvedge to selvedge. Used for logistics and yield calculations. Wider fabrics generally improve cutting efficiency.", "inches \/ cm", "57", "120", "57\"\/144cm", "58\"\/147cm", "59\"\/150cm", "60\"\/152cm", "72\"\/183cm", "110\"\/280cm (home textiles)", "Standard apparel: 57–60\"; technical\/outdoor: 58–60\"; wide-width home textiles: 110\"; industrial rolls: up to 120\"", "Always confirm with mill — actual delivered width often varies ±0.5\". Extra-wide (110\"+) typically woven on specialized rapier or air-jet looms." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "7", "Fabric Width — Cuttable", "Usable width after removing selvedges. The figure used for marker making and yield calculations. Typically 1–3\" less than total width.", "inches \/ cm", "55", "118", "55\"\/140cm", "56\"\/142cm", "57\"\/145cm", "58\"\/147cm", "70\"\/178cm", "108\"\/274cm", "Plan markers on cuttable width, not total width. For woven with tight selvedge (e.g., taffeta), cuttable can be 2–3\" less than total", "Critical for cost-per-meter calculations. Align with cutting room CAD system. JIS L 1096 \/ ASTM D3774 for width measurement." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "8", "Color Application Method", "The dyeing or printing technology used to apply color. Determines achievable color range, fastness levels, process compatibility with fiber, and cost.", "Process Type", "—", "—", "Disperse Dye (PES — standard)", "Acid Dye (Nylon\/PA)", "Cationic \/ CDP (modified PES)", "Digital Sublimation Print", "Rotary Screen Print", "Heat Transfer Print", "100% Poly → disperse dye; Nylon → acid dye; Nylon\/Elastane blend → acid dye at reduced temp; CDP Poly → cationic dye for deeper shades; sportswear allover prints → digital sublimation", "Nylon acid dyeing requires pH control (pH 4–5.5). Disperse dye sublimation risk on PES — test fastness to ISO 105-P01. CDP enables two-tone effects with regular PES in same fabric." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "9", "Aesthetic \/ Surface Finish", "Post-weaving mechanical or chemical treatments that alter the surface appearance and hand-feel. A key differentiator at the design level and affects price significantly.", "Finish Type", "—", "—", "Cire \/ Calendered (high-gloss)", "Peach \/ Brushed (suede-like)", "Embossed (textured pattern)", "Crushed \/ Wrinkled", "Foil Printed", "Flock (velvet texture)", "Cire + taffeta base for luxury linings; Peach finish + microfiber for soft shell outer; Embossed + satin for decorative; Flock + tricot backing for trim", "Cire calendering uses heat + pressure — alters breathability. Peach finish reduces abrasion resistance (re-test after finishing). Embossing must be specified as repeat size in mm." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "10", "MOQ — Minimum Order Quantity", "The minimum yardage or kilogram quantity per color\/style a mill will accept per order. Directly impacts product development economics and inventory risk.", "meters \/ kg", "300", "10000", "300–500m (sampling \/ small brands)", "500–1,000m (mid-tier brands)", "1,000–3,000m (sportswear brands)", "3,000–5,000m (mass market)", "5,000–10,000m (commodity textile)", "By kg: 100–500kg standard", "Mills with wide-width looms (110\") often have higher MOQ. Recycled \/ GRS-certified fabrics typically higher MOQ. Sampling MOQ usually 50–100m at premium price.", "MOQ is negotiable with long-term vendor relationships. Some mills offer lab dip \/ strike-off at 5–10m. Confirm MOQ separately for reorders vs. new developments." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "11", "MCQ — Minimum Color Quantity", "The minimum yardage per colorway within an order. A fabric may have a low MOQ but a high MCQ, forcing color consolidation in buy planning.", "meters", "100", "3000", "100–200m (custom developed)", "200–500m (small program)", "500–1,000m (standard)", "1,000–2,000m (large program)", "2,000–3,000m (commodity color)", "N\/A (stock colors only)", "MCQ drives color count decisions in seasonal range planning. Stock-dyed (available in standard colors) fabrics have no MCQ but limit color choice.", "Distinguish MCQ from MOQ clearly in supplier contracts. Some mills aggregate colors to meet MOQ even if MCQ is lower." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "12", "Lead Time", "Time from purchase order confirmation to ex-factory shipment. Drives seasonal calendar planning, raw material commitment, and working capital requirements.", "Calendar weeks", "4", "24", "4–6 weeks (stock fabric, no dye)", "6–10 weeks (stock greige + dye)", "10–14 weeks (custom greige + dye + finish)", "14–18 weeks (Jacquard \/ complex custom)", "18–24 weeks (new development + sampling)", "2–4 weeks (local \/ nearshore)", "DWR finishing adds 1–2 weeks. GRS \/ bluesign certification audit adds 2–4 weeks first time. Air freight can compress by 1–2 weeks at additional cost.", "Lead time clock typically starts at fabric approval (lab dip \/ strike-off sign-off). Build lab dip time (2–3 weeks) before LT clock in critical path." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "13", "Target FOB Price Range", "Free-on-board cost per linear meter at origin port. Benchmarks vary significantly by fiber, construction complexity, weight, and country of origin.", "USD per linear meter", "0.4", "25", "$0.40–$1.00 (commodity PES plain)", "$1.00–$2.50 (standard sportswear)", "$2.50–$5.00 (technical \/ coated)", "$5.00–$10.00 (Jacquard \/ premium)", "$10.00–$18.00 (rPET \/ certified)", "$18.00–$25.00+ (ultra-tech \/ laminate)", "Nylon typically 15–30% premium over equivalent PES. rPET adds ~$0.20–0.50\/m. TPU laminate adds $1.50–4.00\/m. Heavier weight = lower price per meter but higher per-garment cost.", "Pricing is FOB China \/ Taiwan \/ Vietnam unless stated. C&F, CIF pricing adds freight + insurance. Always confirm price at agreed width — wider = higher yield = better value." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "14", "Country of Origin", "The country where the fabric is woven and finished. Affects import duties, trade compliance, raw material traceability, and sustainability story.", "Country", "—", "—", "China (PRC)", "Taiwan", "Vietnam", "South Korea", "Indonesia \/ Thailand", "Turkey \/ Portugal (nearshore EU)", "China dominates volume + Jacquard; Taiwan: high-tech Nylon\/Spandex; Vietnam: growing mid-tier; Korea: premium performance; Turkey\/Portugal for EU nearshore with shorter lead times", "Country of origin subject to customs rules of origin (substantial transformation). Verify fiber origin for USMCA \/ EUDR compliance. China subject to Section 301 tariffs for US import." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "15", "Sustainability — Recycled Content", "Use of post-consumer or post-industrial recycled fiber. rPET from bottles, Econyl from fishing nets. Requires chain-of-custody certification for brand claims.", "Certification", "—", "—", "Conventional (no recycled content)", "rPET (recycled PES from bottles)", "Econyl® (recycled PA6 from fishing nets)", "Repreve® (branded rPET)", "Post-Industrial Recycled (PIR)", "Blended Recycled + Virgin", "rPET replaces virgin PES at same specs; Econyl replaces Nylon 6 — require GRS cert for brand claims; blended rPET + virgin may not qualify for GRS (check threshold rules)", "GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification required for recycled content claims. Min 20% recycled content for GRS blended claim; 95%+ for GRS 100 claim. Audited by Control Union, SCS, etc." ], [ "COMMERCIAL", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "▌ PILLAR 2: TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS — Mill Engineering & Construction Parameters", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "TECHNICAL", "1", "Yarn Count — Warp", "Warp yarn linear density expressed in Denier (D) or Decitex (dtex). Lower denier = finer yarn = lighter, smoother fabric. Warp yarns bear the most tension on the loom.", "Denier (D) \/ dtex", "10", "1000", "10D–30D (ultra-fine microfiber)", "30D–70D (lightweight performance)", "70D–150D (standard \/ mid-weight)", "150D–300D (mid-heavy bags\/upholstery)", "300D–600D (heavy duty)", "600D–1000D (luggage \/ ballistic)", "20D warp + 20D weft for downproof taffeta; 70D warp + 70D weft for standard ripstop; 300D warp + 600D weft for luggage fabric; high-denier warp compensates for lower weft strength", "1D = 1g per 9,000m. Convert: dtex = D × 1.1. Filament count (F) must be stated alongside: 70D\/72F = 70 denier with 72 individual filaments. ISO 1973 \/ ASTM D1907." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "2", "Yarn Count — Weft", "Weft (filling) yarn linear density. Can differ from warp to create directional weight distribution, texture, or cost optimization. Weft is inserted by the shuttle\/rapier.", "Denier (D) \/ dtex", "10", "1000", "10D–30D (ultra-fine)", "30D–70D (lightweight)", "70D–150D (standard)", "150D–300D (mid-heavy)", "300D–600D (heavy duty)", "600D–1000D (luggage)", "Warp and weft often matched at same denier for balanced weaves; heavier weft than warp used in certain bag fabrics for fill weight; lighter weft than warp for drape optimization", "For elastic fabrics, elastane is typically in the weft direction only (horizontal stretch). Specifying filament count (F) for weft is equally critical for surface smoothness." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "3", "Yarn Filament Count", "Number of individual continuous filaments bundled within a single yarn. More filaments = finer, softer, silkier hand-feel; fewer filaments = coarser, more structured.", "Filaments (F)", "1", "288", "Monofilament (1F) — stiff, wiry", "Low: 12–36F — standard performance", "Mid: 48–72F — soft-hand sportswear", "High: 96–144F — microfiber \/ peach finish", "Ultra: 144–288F — ultra-microfiber", "Note as: 70D\/72F, 50D\/144F, etc.", "70D\/72F: standard nylon ripstop; 50D\/144F: fine microfiber for peach finish; 150D\/288F: ultra-microfiber for brushed softshell; monofilament used for sieve\/filter fabrics", "Microfiber = <1 dpf (denier per filament). Calculate dpf: dpf = Denier ÷ Filament count. E.g., 50D\/144F = 0.35 dpf (microfiber range). ISO 2076 terminology applies." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "4", "Yarn Type & Extrusion Method", "The manufacturing process used to produce the yarn. Determines surface character, luster, bulk, elasticity, and dyeability of the fabric.", "Yarn Type", "—", "—", "FDY — Fully Drawn Yarn (flat, smooth, lustrous)", "DTY — Draw Textured Yarn (crimped, soft, bulk)", "ATY \/ Taslan — Air Textured Yarn (irregular, matte, sporty)", "POY — Partially Oriented Yarn (precursor to DTY\/FDY)", "HTY — High Tenacity Yarn (for strength\/ballistic)", "Microfiber — sub-1 dpf, ultra-fine", "FDY for linings and high-gloss taffeta; DTY for softshell outer and sportswear; ATY for matte outdoor\/workwear; HTY for luggage and ballistic-grade panels", "FDY = highest luster, least bulk; DTY = most common for apparel; ATY = most matte, highest bulk; POY not used in finished fabrics directly. Specify in mill yarn spec sheet." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "5", "Elastane Specification — Denier", "Denier of the bare elastane (Spandex\/Lycra) yarn used in stretch fabrics. Higher denier = more power\/recovery. Must be specified separately from the core yarn.", "Denier (D)", "15", "280", "15D–20D (light swim \/ lingerie)", "20D–40D (standard activewear)", "40D–70D (performance \/ compression)", "70D–140D (heavy power stretch)", "140D–280D (industrial \/ brace)", "", "20D elastane + 70D Nylon 6 for swimwear; 40D elastane + 150D PES DTY for yoga\/leggings; 70D elastane + 280D nylon for medical compression", "Elastane content by weight typically 5–30%. Lycra® (Invista), Roica® (Asahi Kasei), ELASPAN™ are major brands. Bare elastane degrades under chlorine — specify chlorine-resistant grade for swimwear." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "6", "Elastane Specification — Cover Type", "How the elastane is combined with the core yarn. Affects stretch behavior, fabric thickness, hand-feel, and whether the elastane is visible at the surface.", "Cover Type", "—", "—", "Bare Elastane (uncovered — for seamless knit, not woven)", "Single Covered (SC) — one wrap yarn around elastane", "Double Covered (DC) — two wrap yarns for better coverage", "Air-Covered (AC \/ Fasciated) — air jet entanglement, softer", "Core-Spun (CS) — spun staple around elastane core", "Not Applicable (no elastane)", "AC + Nylon 70D for woven stretch activewear (soft hand); DC + 40D for woven swimwear (full coverage); SC + DTY PES for mid-price stretch outerwear", "Air-covered is the dominant type for woven stretch fabrics. Core-spun applies to cotton blends. Always state cover yarn count + elastane core denier: e.g., AC 70D\/40D = 70D Nylon cover over 40D bare elastane." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "7", "Thread Count \/ Fabric Density — EPI", "Ends Per Inch: number of warp yarns per inch in the finished fabric. Higher EPI = denser, heavier, tighter hand. Critical for downproof and windproof specifications.", "Ends per inch (EPI)", "30", "350", "30–60 EPI (open \/ loose — mesh\/shade)", "60–100 EPI (lightweight \/ standard)", "100–140 EPI (mid-weight, balanced)", "140–200 EPI (tight \/ downproof range)", "200–260 EPI (high-count \/ 300T range)", "260–350 EPI (ultra-high \/ 400T+)", "100 EPI + 100 PPI = ~200T fabric; 140 EPI + 140 PPI = ~280T; downproof spec typically requires >180T combined; ripstop grids reduce effective EPI at grid reinforcement", "T-count (Thread Count) = EPI + PPI. Not the same as the consumer bedding T-count (those use two-ply yarns). ASTM D3775 \/ ISO 7211-2 for EPI\/PPI measurement." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "8", "Thread Count \/ Fabric Density — PPI", "Picks Per Inch: number of weft yarns per inch. Together with EPI determines overall thread count (T), fabric cover factor, and structural characteristics.", "Picks per inch (PPI)", "30", "350", "30–60 PPI (open weave)", "60–100 PPI (lightweight)", "100–140 PPI (mid-weight)", "140–200 PPI (tight \/ performance)", "200–260 PPI (high count)", "260–350 PPI (ultra-high count)", "PPI often ≤ EPI in balanced weaves; higher PPI than EPI occurs in filling-faced satins; both must be specified for complete fabric engineering", "ASTM D3775 \/ ISO 7211-2. PPI affects fabric elongation in weft direction. Finishing (heat setting, calendering) can alter PPI by ±5–10% from loom setting." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "9", "Thread Count — T Notation", "Combined thread count expressed as T-value (EPI + PPI). Common shorthand for classifying fabric density in the synthetic fabric industry.", "T count (EPI + PPI)", "80", "700", "T80–T130 (light open weave)", "T150–T190 (standard lightweight)", "T190–T230 (mid-grade performance)", "T230–T300 (premium \/ downproof base)", "T300–T400 (high-count technical)", "T400–T700 (ultra-high count)", "T190 nylon taffeta for basic linings; T210 PES for windbreakers; T300 for downproof applications; T400+ for premium down jackets and luxury outdoor", "T-count is fabric industry convention — not ISO-standardized as such. Verify EPI and PPI separately rather than relying solely on T-count declaration from mills." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "10", "Fabric Bow Tolerance", "Maximum allowable curvature of the weft yarns relative to the warp direction, expressed as % of fabric width. Excessive bow causes pattern misalignment and stripe\/plaid distortion.", "% of width", "0", "3", "≤1% (stripes\/plaids — tight tolerance)", "≤1.5% (performance fabrics standard)", "≤2% (general commercial tolerance)", "≤3% (acceptable for solid-color plain weaves)", "Not specified (solid color fabrics without critical alignment)", "", "Striped or plaid fabrics require ≤1% bow; printed fabrics require ≤1.5% to avoid misregistration; high-speed weft insertion on air-jet looms increases bow risk", "ASTM D3882 \/ ISO 13015 for bow\/skew measurement. Bow is corrected via stenter frame (heat + mechanical tension) during finishing. Persistent bow after finishing indicates loom set-up issue." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "11", "Fabric Skew Tolerance", "Maximum allowable angular distortion of the weft relative to true perpendicular, expressed as % of width. Causes seam twist, hem roll, and garment structural failure in severe cases.", "% of width", "0", "3", "≤1% (precision cut \/ placket \/ stripe)", "≤1.5% (standard performance)", "≤2% (general woven)", "≤3% (acceptable for solid\/plain industrial use)", "Not specified (if no directional concern)", "", "Skew and bow often occur together — must test both. Stretch fabrics (elastane content) more prone to skew. Skew tolerance tighter for garments with vertical pattern matching.", "Measured per ASTM D3882. Often confused with bow — skew is angular displacement, bow is curvature. Both are reported as % of fabric width measured at specified intervals." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "12", "Dimensional Stability — Heat Setting", "Temperature and duration at which synthetic fabric is heat-set on a stenter frame to lock in dimensions, structure, and hand-feel. Critical for synthetics to prevent shrinkage and maintain width.", "°C \/ °F + dwell seconds", "160", "220", "160–170°C \/ 320–338°F (Elastane blends — low temp)", "170–185°C \/ 338–365°F (standard Nylon \/ PA)", "185–200°C \/ 365–392°F (standard Polyester \/ PES)", "200–215°C \/ 392–419°F (high-temp PES \/ dimensional stability)", "215–220°C \/ 419–428°F (coated \/ laminated — check coat compatibility)", "Dwell: 20–60 seconds depending on construction", "PES heat sets best at 185–200°C for dimension stability; Nylon at 170–185°C; elastane blends must not exceed 175°C or elastane degrades; heat setting before dyeing vs. after dyeing has different outcomes", "ISO 105-X11 for checking heat stability. Over-setting burns yarn; under-setting causes shrinkage in use. For coated fabrics, confirm coating heat resistance before heat setting." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "13", "Shrinkage Tolerance — Warp", "Maximum allowable warp-direction (lengthwise) dimensional change after standard home laundering or specified test wash. Specified as negative % (shrinkage) or positive % (growth).", "% change (warp)", "-5", "2", "0% to -1% (precision \/ high-performance spec)", "-1% to -2% (standard athletic \/ outerwear)", "-2% to -3% (acceptable commercial)", "-3% to -5% (loose \/ casual spec)", "+0.5% to +2% (growth — common in some knit-weaves)", "", "Tight warp shrinkage tolerance paired with high EPI constructions; coated fabrics may have different shrinkage than uncoated base; warp typically shrinks more than weft in woven synthetics", "ISO 6330 (domestic wash) \/ AATCC 135 \/ ISO 5077 (dimensional change). Specify wash temperature: 30°C, 40°C, 60°C. Synthetics should be tested at expected care label temperature." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "14", "Shrinkage Tolerance — Weft", "Maximum allowable weft-direction (crosswise) dimensional change after laundering. Weft often shows more growth than shrinkage in synthetic wovens due to crimp relaxation.", "% change (weft)", "-5", "3", "0% to -1% (precision spec)", "-1% to -2% (standard)", "-2% to -3% (commercial acceptable)", "+0.5% to +2% (growth — common in weft stretch fabrics)", "+2% to +3% (elastane weft — controlled growth acceptable)", "", "Elastane-containing weft fabrics may show growth after first wash (elastane relaxation); non-elastic wovens should show minimal weft change; weft growth can cause finished garment width increase", "Same test methods as warp: ISO 6330 \/ AATCC 135. For stretch fabrics, measure both relaxed and extended dimensions. Report separately from warp." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "15", "Coating Type", "Polymer coatings applied to one or both fabric faces to add functional performance (waterproofing, durability, stiffness). Applied via knife-over-roll, gravure, or transfer coating.", "Coating Chemistry", "—", "—", "PU — Polyurethane (flexible, durable waterproof)", "TPU — Thermoplastic PU (weldable, PVC-free)", "Silicone (extreme temp + flexibility)", "PVC — Polyvinyl Chloride (low cost, stiff, heavy)", "Acrylic (breathable base coat, softer hand)", "No Coating (uncoated \/ DWR-only)", "PU coating + DWR for outdoor jackets; TPU for welded seam products (rainwear, drybags); Silicone for ultralight tents and down baffles; PVC for heavy-duty tarps and bags; Acrylic for softer light waterproofing", "PVC contains plasticizers (phthalates) — restricted by REACH and many brands. TPU is the PVC-free premium alternative. Silicone coating not compatible with tape seam bonding. Specify coat weight in g\/m²." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "16", "Coating Weight \/ Thickness", "Mass of the coating applied per square meter (g\/m²) or thickness in microns\/mm. Heavier coatings provide higher waterproofness but reduce breathability and drape.", "g\/m² or microns", "5", "500", "5–15 g\/m² (light acrylic \/ DWR base coat)", "15–40 g\/m² (light PU for breathable waterproof)", "40–100 g\/m² (standard PU waterproof)", "100–200 g\/m² (heavy PU \/ double coat)", "200–500 g\/m² (PVC tarpaulin \/ heavy industrial)", "Thickness: 0.05–0.5mm typical range", "20–40 g\/m² PU coat achieves 1,000–5,000mm hydrostatic head; 40–80 g\/m² achieves 5,000–10,000mm; heavier coats used for single-layer waterproof without DWR", "Coating weight measured by weighing fabric before and after coating. ISO 2286-2 for coated fabric mass per unit area. Always specify coat on face vs. back vs. both sides." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "17", "Lamination Type", "Bonding of the fabric to a functional membrane or backing (fleece, mesh, foam). More complex than coating — alters entire fabric hand, weight, and performance envelope.", "Lamination Type", "—", "—", "2-layer (face fabric + membrane, no liner)", "2.5-layer (face + membrane + printed interior)", "3-layer (face + membrane + backer\/lining)", "Fleece back laminate (face + fleece bond)", "Foam laminate (face + foam scrim for structure)", "No lamination", "3-layer for highest performance outdoor shells; 2-layer for packable rain jackets; 2.5-layer for mid-price waterproof; fleece-back softshell for active insulation; foam for structured bag panels", "Membrane types: ePTFE (Gore-Tex®), PU microporous, PU hydrophilic monolithic. Lamination method: flame lamination, adhesive dot, hotmelt web. Adhesive choice affects breathability — specify in technical brief." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "18", "DWR — Durable Water Repellency", "Fluoropolymer or fluorocarbon-free chemical treatment applied to fabric face to cause water beading. The first line of defense in waterproofing. DWR alone does not provide waterproofness.", "DWR Chemistry", "—", "—", "C8 — PFOA\/PFOS-based (banned in most markets)", "C6 — PFAS-based (reduced concern, still restricted by many brands)", "C0 \/ PFC-free — Wax or dendrimer-based (Teflon EcoElite, Bionic-Finish Eco)", "Silicone-based DWR (limited durability)", "No DWR (unfinished or membrane-reliant)", "DWR + PU coat (dual protection)", "C0 DWR + 20 g\/m² PU coat for sustainable waterproof outerwear; C0 DWR alone for wind resistant softshell; C6 still used in some performance brands pending full phase-out", "C8 (PFOA) banned: EU POP Regulation, EPA PFAS action plan, bluesign. C6 restricted by ZDHC MRSL and many brand policies. C0 is the industry direction. Performance of C0 DWR tested per ISO 4920 (Spray Test). Durability tested after multiple wash cycles." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "19", "Functional Finish — Moisture Wicking", "Hydrophilic treatment or yarn structure that enables rapid transport of moisture (sweat) from skin through fabric to outer surface for evaporation. Key for activewear performance.", "Wicking Performance", "—", "—", "Capillary wicking (structure-based — DTY microfiber)", "Chemical hydrophilic finish (applied topically)", "Combination: micro-yarn + hydrophilic coat", "One-way wicking (moisture moves outward only)", "Standard wicking (bi-directional moisture transport)", "Not specified \/ no wicking requirement", "DTY microfiber + hydrophilic finish for running shirts; one-way wicking structures used in base layers; wicking performance degrades with DWR treatments — design conflict must be managed", "Tested per AATCC 195 (Liquid Moisture Management Properties). Reports: wetting time, absorption rate, spreading speed, overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Specify minimum OMMC target (e.g., ≥0.5)." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "20", "Functional Finish — Anti-Microbial", "Treatment that inhibits growth of odor-causing bacteria on fabric surface. Critical for high-sweat activewear, workwear, and medical textiles. Must be substantive (durable to washing).", "Technology", "—", "—", "Silver ion-based (e.g., HeiQ, Sciessent Agion®)", "Zinc pyrithione-based", "Chitosan-based (bio-derived)", "Quaternary ammonium (QUAT)", "Copper ion-based", "Not specified \/ no anti-microbial req.", "Silver ion + DTY PES for performance activewear; chitosan (bio) for sustainable positioning; copper for medical\/workwear; QUATs less common due to residue concerns", "Tested per AATCC 100 (% reduction) or AATCC 147 (zone of inhibition). Must pass after 50+ wash cycles for performance brands. Nanosilver restricted in some EU and OEKO-TEX scope items — verify compliance." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "21", "Functional Finish — UPF Rating", "Ultraviolet Protection Factor: measure of fabric's ability to block UV radiation (both UVA and UVB). Relevant for outdoor and sportswear categories.", "UPF Rating", "15", "50", "UPF 15–24 (good UV protection)", "UPF 25–39 (very good UV protection)", "UPF 40–50 (excellent UV protection)", "UPF 50+ (maximum rated protection)", "Not tested \/ not required", "", "High thread count + tight weave naturally increases UPF (T300+ PES taffeta can achieve UPF 30–50 without finishing); dark colors increase UPF vs. light colors; wet fabric UPF may differ from dry", "AS\/NZS 4399 (Australian\/NZ — most rigorous), AATCC 183, EN 13758. Must test after washing (durability claim). Coating and lamination generally improve UPF. UV stabilizer finish available as additive." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "22", "Functional Finish — Anti-Static", "Treatment reducing static electricity buildup on synthetic fabric surfaces. Critical for electronics-adjacent applications, explosives-safe workwear, and comfort in dry climates.", "Technology \/ ESD Level", "—", "—", "Topical anti-static finish (temporary, wash-off)", "Durable anti-static finish (surfactant-based)", "Conductive carbon fiber interlace (permanent ESD)", "Metallic yarn integration (grid pattern)", "ESD: EN 1149-5 \/ ATEX zone compliant", "Not required", "Anti-static finish on microfiber lining for electronics workwear; conductive yarn grid for ATEX explosive environments; standard anti-static for comfort in dry climate activewear", "EN 1149-1 (surface resistance), EN 1149-3 (charge decay) for protective workwear. AATCC 134 for static propensity. Wash durability critical — specify minimum wash cycles for claim." ], [ "TECHNICAL", "23", "Edge Construction — Fabric Roll", "How the fabric edge (selvedge) is finished at the loom or during cutting\/slitting. Affects unraveling, seam allowance use, and downstream cutting room handling.", "Edge Type", "—", "—", "Tucked selvedge (woven loops — standard loom)", "Ultrasonic slit (heat-fused clean edge — no fraying)", "Hot-knife slit (melted edge for synthetics)", "Tape-bound selvedge (ribbon sewn to edge)", "Raw slit \/ scissor cut (temporary, for samples)", "Not specified", "Ultrasonic slit standard for technical synthetic outerwear rolls; hot-knife common for nylon taffeta rolls; tucked selvedge on shuttleless rapier looms; tape-bound for premium roll presentation", "Ultrasonic and hot-knife edges critical for synthetics — prevents yarn pullout during cutting. Verify edge width consumed by slit is accounted for in cuttable width spec. Some coatings can jam ultrasonic slitters." ] ] }, "Testing Specifications": { "total_rows": 54, "total_cols": "O", "preview": [ [ "SYNTHETIC WOVEN FABRIC — TESTING SPECIFICATIONS MASTER INDEX", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Use this sheet to define brand-specific testing requirements. Fill the Brand columns (J onward) with: REQUIRED \/ OPTIONAL \/ N\/A — and add pass\/fail thresholds per brand.", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "#", "Test Name", "Category", "Standard Body(ies)", "Standard Code(s)", "Methodology & Purpose", "Reported Metric \/ Units", "Typical Threshold Range", "Synthetic-Specific Notes", "Columbia \/ MHW", "Fanatics", "Alo Yoga", "VF Corp \/ TNF", "Brand E", "Brand F" ], [ "← Core Test Reference Data", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "← BRAND REQUIREMENTS: REQUIRED | OPTIONAL | N\/A | NOT SPECIFIED — Threshold notes in each cell", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "▌ PHYSICAL & MECHANICAL STRENGTH", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "1", "Breaking Strength (Grab)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D5034 \/ ISO 13934-2", "A strip of fabric is held in two clamps (grab method) and pulled until rupture. Measures peak force at break in warp and weft directions separately.", "N \/ lbf (warp & weft)", "Apparel: ≥200N; Outerwear: ≥350N; Bags\/Luggage: ≥800N", "Synthetic filament yarns show higher breaking strength than spun; high-tenacity Nylon 6.6 provides superior strength-to-weight ratio over PES.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL per product type", "NOT SPECIFIED\n⚠ Fanatics policy = Traceability \/ Chain of Custody\nNo performance test thresholds specified\nRequires: materials match Raw Material Data Sheet specs within industry tolerances (incl. fiber COO)", "REQUIRED\nSGS or accredited 3rd-party lab\nTest from black bulk production yardage\nSpecify end-use: Loose Fit or Tight Fit\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual (not published here)", "REQUIRED\nPerformance Testing per Brand Performance Manual\n(e.g., TNF, Vans, Timberland have individual manuals)\nSMS stage + Bulk Production stage\nVia Interlink platform — VF nominated 3rd party labs only", "", "" ], [ "2", "Breaking Strength (Strip)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D5035 \/ ISO 13934-1", "Full-width fabric strip (50mm wide) is pulled to rupture. More reproducible than grab method. Preferred for technical specifications in performance fabrics.", "N \/ lbf (warp & weft)", "Sportswear: ≥150N; Technical outerwear: ≥300N; Industrial: ≥600N", "Strip method recommended for coated and laminated fabrics where grab results are influenced by the coating stiffness rather than base fabric.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package per Care Code\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual\nTwo-stage testing: SMS + Bulk", "", "" ], [ "3", "Tear Strength (Elmendorf)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D1424 \/ ISO 13937-1", "A pendulum-driven blade propagates a pre-cut slit in the fabric. Measures resistance to tearing force in both warp and weft. Critical for outdoor and activewear durability.", "N \/ gf (warp & weft)", "Lightweight: ≥10N; Outerwear: ≥25N; Bags: ≥50N", "Ripstop weave dramatically increases tear strength vs. plain weave of same yarn denier. Coatings can increase or decrease tear strength depending on coat weight and adhesion.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "4", "Tear Strength (Trapezoid \/ Tongue)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D5587 \/ ISO 13937-2", "Two parallel cuts define a trapezoidal sample; force is applied to propagate the tear in a defined direction. More representative of real-world tear propagation in seam areas.", "N \/ lbf", "Standard: ≥30N; Performance: ≥50N; Heavy duty: ≥80N", "Preferred for evaluating seam area tear behavior. Should be used in conjunction with seam slippage tests for slippery synthetic fabrics.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "5", "Bursting Strength (Ball Burst)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D6797 \/ ISO 13938-1", "A steel ball is pushed through a fabric specimen at a constant rate. Measures multi-directional resistance to puncture\/burst — critical for stretch fabrics where biaxial loading occurs.", "N \/ lbf", "Activewear: ≥300N; Technical: ≥500N; Safety: ≥700N", "More relevant than strip tear for knitted-structure wovens and elastane-containing fabrics where loading is not strictly uniaxial. Report alongside warp\/weft results.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "6", "Abrasion Resistance (Martindale)", "Physical & Mechanical Strength", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 12947-2 \/ ASTM D4966", "Fabric is abraded in a figure-8 (Lissajous) motion against standard wool abradant under specified load. Results reported as number of cycles to hole formation or specified mass loss.", "Cycles to failure \/ mass loss %", "Casual: 5,000 cyc; Outerwear: 20,000 cyc; Upholstery: 50,000 cyc", "Nylon significantly outperforms PES in Martindale abrasion (typically 2-3× more cycles). Peach finish reduces abrasion resistance — re-test after finishing. PES microfiber can fibrillate under abrasion.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package (Martindale specified)", "REQUIRED\nMartindale per VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "7", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED\nWyzenbeek not referenced; Martindale is standard", "OPTIONAL\nWyzenbeek if brand specifically requires (US brands)", "", "" ], [ "▌ SYNTHETIC-SPECIFIC STRUCTURAL", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "8", "Seam Slippage", "Synthetic-Specific Structural", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 13936-1 & -2 \/ ASTM D4034", "A seam is sewn at specified stitch density in warp and weft directions. Force is applied perpendicular to the seam to pull yarns through the seam. Reports force at specified displacement (6mm typical).", "N at 6mm opening", "Woven: ≥100N standard; Outerwear: ≥150N; Technical: ≥200N", "Critical for slippery filament synthetics (FDY Nylon taffeta, PES satin). High-density weaves (T300+) reduce slippage risk. Seam slippage failure common at underarm, crotch, and high-stress points.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "9", "Snagging Resistance (Mace Snag Test)", "Synthetic-Specific Structural", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D3939 \/ ISO 12945-1 (Mace)", "A fabric sample wrapped on a cylinder is tumbled with a mace (spiked ball) in a rotating drum. Snagging is rated visually on a 1–5 scale after a set number of rotations.", "Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "≥3.0 for general apparel; ≥4.0 for premium\/performance", "Synthetics are inherently snag-prone due to continuous filament structure — a single pulled filament can run. Low filament count yarns (e.g., 70D\/24F) snag more than high-F microfiber (70D\/144F).", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "10", "Pilling Resistance (Martindale Box)", "Synthetic-Specific Structural", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 12945-2 \/ ASTM D4970", "Fabric is rubbed against itself (Martindale motion) or against standard fabric. Pills are rated visually on a 1–5 scale after specified cycle intervals. DTY yarns are high-risk for pilling.", "Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "≥3.0 at 2,000 cycles casual; ≥4.0 at 5,000 cycles performance", "DTY PES and ATY fabrics have highest pilling risk. FDY fabrics pill less due to smoother filament surface. Anti-pilling finish (shearing, singeing, chemical) can be applied post-weave.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package", "REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "11", "Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble)", "Synthetic-Specific Structural", "ASTM", "ASTM D3512", "Fabric samples tumble freely in a cylindrical chamber lined with cork. This random tumble method simulates real-use pilling more aggressively than the Martindale method.", "Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "≥3.0 at standard cycles", "Commonly used for fleece and DTY face fabrics in the US market. Harsher than Martindale — results not directly equivalent. Specify which test when citing pilling results.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nUS market brands may use Random Tumble; Alo defaults to Martindale", "OPTIONAL\nRandom Tumble per brand requirement", "", "" ], [ "12", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "N\/A", "N\/A", "N\/A", "N\/A", "", "" ], [ "▌ COLORFASTNESS", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "13", "Colorfastness to Washing", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-C06 \/ AATCC 61", "Fabric is washed at a specified temperature with standard detergent and steel balls. Color change in the specimen and staining on multifiber adjacent fabric are rated on a grey scale (1–5).", "Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4 depending on brand", "Disperse dye on PES requires high-temp wash test (60°C) to simulate thermofixation limits. Nylon (acid dye) is generally more wash-fast but susceptible to pH extremes.", "REQUIRED\nMWW: ISO 105 C10-A1 @ 40°C\nStaining ≥4 | Color Change ≥4\nIf fail MWW → run MWC AATCC 61-2A @ 30°C ≥4", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package per Care Code\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual", "REQUIRED\nCF to Washing: Per VF RSL Implementation Manual 2026\nAnnually; all colorways\nVia Interlink — VF nominated labs only", "", "" ], [ "14", "Colorfastness to Light (Xenon Arc)", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-B02 \/ AATCC 16", "Fabric is exposed to a xenon arc lamp simulating solar radiation for defined periods (20–40 hours or AFU). Color change is rated against Blue Wool scale (1–8) or Grey Scale.", "Blue wool scale 1 (worst) to 8 (best)", "Casual: ≥4 BWS; Outdoor: ≥5–6 BWS; Military\/UV: ≥7", "PES has inherently good lightfastness due to disperse dye affinity. Nylon acid dyes are more prone to fading. Cationic (CDP) dyes on PES provide deep shades but may have lower lightfastness — test critical.", "REQUIRED\nISO 105 B02, Blue Wool 4, Method 3\nDark\/Medium (L<66.66): endpoint shade 3 → min ≥3.5\nPastel\/Light (L≥66.66): min ≥3\nKnit only: ISO 105 B07\/GB-T14576, BW4, endpoint 4.5 → ≥3", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — lightfastness included in full package", "REQUIRED\nCF to Light: Per VF RSL Implementation Manual 2026\nAll colors tested per matrix", "", "" ], [ "15", "Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry)", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-X12 \/ AATCC 8", "A white test cloth is rubbed against the fabric surface (dry condition) with a crockmeter under defined load and number of strokes. Staining of white cloth is rated on grey scale.", "Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "Dry crocking: ≥4 minimum; ≥4–5 for premium brands", "Dry crocking failure most common with dark disperse dyes on PES that have not been properly reduced-cleared. Crocking worsens on surfaces with topical finishes that trap surface dye.", "REQUIRED\nDry Crocking: ISO 105 X12\nGeneral & Dark: Dry ≥3.5\nGeneral & Light: Dry ≥4\nPrints\/YD\/GD\/Lining\/Fleece\/Sanded\/Flocked\/Light: Dry ≥3.5\nLining\/Fleece Dark: Dry ≥3.5", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — dry crocking", "REQUIRED\nDry Crocking: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "16", "Colorfastness to Crocking (Wet)", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-X12 \/ AATCC 8 (wet condition)", "Same as dry crocking but the crockmeter cloth is wetted before the test. Wet crocking is always lower than dry — represents worst-case sweat\/rain contact scenario.", "Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "Wet crocking: ≥3 standard; ≥3–4 performance; ≥4 premium", "Wet crocking is the most sensitive test — drives dye selection and fixation process. Critical for swimwear and rain jackets. Poor wet crocking can contaminate white inner linings.", "REQUIRED\nWet Crocking: ISO 105 X12\nGeneral & Dark: Wet ≥2.5\nGeneral & Light: Wet ≥3\nPrints\/YD\/GD\/Lining\/Fleece\/Sanded\/Flocked\/Light: Wet ≥3\nLining\/Fleece Dark: Wet ≥2.5", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — wet crocking", "REQUIRED\nWet Crocking: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "17", "Colorfastness to Perspiration (Acid)", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-E04 \/ AATCC 15", "Fabric is immersed in artificial acid perspiration solution (pH 5.5), placed in contact with multifiber adjacent fabric, and pressed under load at 37°C for 4 hours. Color change and staining rated.", "Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4", "Acid perspiration is most critical for Nylon (acid dye) — sweat can re-activate acid dye and cause staining on adjacent fabrics or skin. Test both acid and alkaline perspiration.", "REQUIRED\nPerspiration: ISO 105 E04 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — perspiration acid", "REQUIRED\nPerspiration Acid: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "18", "Colorfastness to Perspiration (Alkaline)", "Colorfastness", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-E04 \/ AATCC 15", "Same procedure as acid perspiration test but using alkaline solution (pH 8.0). Together, acid + alkaline tests cover the full pH range of human perspiration conditions.", "Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best)", "Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4", "Alkaline perspiration can affect disperse dye on PES more than acid — dye alkaline hydrolysis. Both acid and alkaline tests should always be run as a pair for activewear fabrics.", "REQUIRED\nPerspiration Alkaline: ISO 105 E04 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — perspiration alkaline", "REQUIRED\nPerspiration Alkaline: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "19", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "REQUIRED\nWater: ISO 105 E01 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — water", "REQUIRED\nWater CF: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "▌ SYNTHETIC-SPECIFIC COLOR", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "20", "Sublimation Fastness (Heat Transfer \/ Storage)", "Synthetic-Specific Color", "ISO", "ISO 105-P01 \/ ISO 105-P02", "Fabric is placed in contact with acetate or PES adjacent fabric and subjected to dry heat pressure (150–210°C). Evaluates dye migration from the fabric to adjacent materials during storage or heat pressing.", "Grey scale rating 1–5", "≥4 for standard; ≥4–5 for garments with white adjacents", "PES disperse dyes are inherently volatile at heat — sublimation is the primary cause of color contamination in storage (e.g., dark Poly lining staining white shell). Requires high fixation and reduction clearing.", "REQUIRED\nSublimation risk on PES disperse dye\nRequires reduction clearing; no explicit limit in TCM but CF testing covers this indirectly", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS testing — sublimation fastness on PES\nHeat Transfer testing explicitly listed in development flow", "REQUIRED\nSublimation: Per VF RSL IM 2026\nIncluded in annual RSL package", "", "" ], [ "21", "Phenolic Yellowing (Butylated Hydroxytoluene)", "Synthetic-Specific Color", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 105-X18 \/ AATCC 23", "White or light-colored fabric is sealed in a plastic bag (simulating storage in poly bags) with a phenolic-impregnated paper. BHT from polyethylene bags reacts with optical brighteners or certain finishes to cause yellowing.", "Grey scale change rating 1–5", "No yellowing: change ≤1 grade (≥4–5 required)", "Extremely common defect in white and light PES fabrics stored in polyethylene bags. DWR finishes can accelerate phenolic yellowing. Must test all white\/ivory\/light fabrics. Use BHT-free poly bags as mitigation.", "REQUIRED\nStore RCS in acid-free and BHT-free containers\nPhenolic yellowing is a documented concern", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nIncluded in SGS full package", "REQUIRED\nPhenolic Yellowing: Per VF RSL IM 2026", "", "" ], [ "22", "Water Spotting \/ Water Staining", "Synthetic-Specific Color", "AATCC", "AATCC 104", "Drops of distilled water are placed on the fabric surface and allowed to dry. Any change in shade or surface appearance (ring mark, spotting) is evaluated by comparison with original fabric.", "Rating \/ visual comparison", "No visible change after drying for most applications", "Critical for cire-finished taffetas, lustered PES, and DWR-treated fabrics where water drops can leave permanent tide marks. High-gloss or calendered fabrics are most sensitive.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nNot explicitly listed in TCM", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nCase by case depending on finish", "OPTIONAL\nPer brand requirement and finish type", "", "" ], [ "23", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nSwimwear \/ active wash fabrics", "OPTIONAL\nSwimwear \/ chlorinated water products", "", "" ], [ "▌ DIMENSIONAL STABILITY", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "24", "Dimensional Change — Domestic Washing", "Dimensional Stability", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 6330 \/ AATCC 135", "Fabric specimens with marked measurements are subjected to specified wash and dry cycles. Dimensions are re-measured and percentage change calculated in warp and weft directions separately.", "% change (warp & weft)", "Warp: ≤-3%; Weft: ≤-3% (standard); ≤-2% premium", "Synthetics are generally more dimensionally stable than naturals but may show growth after first wash (elastane relaxation). Specify test temperature: 30°C, 40°C, or 60°C to match care label.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nDimensional specs in RMM\/RMTL", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package per Care Code\nShrinkage tested under appropriate care code", "REQUIRED\nDimensional stability: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\nSeasonal or annual per brand schedule", "", "" ], [ "25", "Dimensional Change — Dry Cleaning", "Dimensional Stability", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 3175-1 \/ AATCC 158", "Fabric is subjected to commercial dry cleaning processes. Dimensional change measured pre- and post-treatment in both warp and weft. Required when care label includes dry clean option.", "% change", "≤-2% for dry-clean labeled fabrics", "Less relevant for most synthetics (dry cleaning not standard for PES\/Nylon activewear) but required for performance fabrics used in luxury or professional contexts.", "N\/A\nNot typical for CSC product range", "NOT SPECIFIED", "N\/A\nNot standard for Alo activewear", "N\/A", "", "" ], [ "26", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nHeat transfer testing explicitly in Alo RMID Step 11", "REQUIRED\nHeat shrinkage: Per VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "▌ PERFORMANCE & WEATHER PROTECTION", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "27", "Water Repellency — Spray Test", "Performance & Weather Protection", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 4920 \/ AATCC 22", "Water is sprayed from a fixed nozzle onto a taut fabric specimen at 45°. Water beading is rated on a 0–100 scale (or 0–5) by comparison with photographic standards. Reports initial and after-wash DWR performance.", "Rating 0–100 (ISO) or 0–5 (AATCC); or: No\/1\/2\/3\/4\/5", "Initial: 80–100 (ISO) \/ ≥4 (AATCC); After 20W: ≥70\/≥3", "Tests DWR performance, not waterproofness. Rate must be measured initially AND after 5, 10, 20 wash cycles to evaluate DWR durability. C0 DWR typically shows faster initial decline than C6.", "NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM\/RMTL per product", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nDWR-treated fabrics only", "REQUIRED\nDWR Spray Test: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\nC0 \/ PFC-free DWR — CHEM-IQ STA compliance required", "", "" ], [ "28", "Hydrostatic Head (Water Column \/ Pressure)", "Performance & Weather Protection", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 811 \/ ASTM D751", "Water pressure is applied to the fabric surface at a constant rate of increase until water penetrates through 3 points. Measured in millimeters of water column (mmH₂O) or Pa. Defines waterproofness level.", "mmH₂O \/ Pa", "Wind resistant: 500–1,500mm; Rain: 1,500–5,000mm; High performance: 5,000–20,000mm+", "Hydrostatic head measures coating\/laminate waterproofness — DWR alone provides no hydrostatic head. Seam sealing is required for waterproof garments as seams typically have zero hydrostatic resistance.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nOuterwear \/ waterproof fabrics", "REQUIRED\nHydrostatic Head: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\n(outerwear \/ waterproof categories)", "", "" ], [ "29", "Air Permeability", "Performance & Weather Protection", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 9237 \/ ASTM D737", "Air flow rate through fabric is measured under a specified pressure differential (100 Pa typical). Reports in cm³\/cm²\/s or L\/m²\/s. Determines windproofness — critical for windbreakers and down baffles.", "cm³\/cm²\/s or L\/m²\/s", "Windproof: <3 cm³\/cm²\/s; Down-proof: <1 cm³\/cm²\/s; Breathable shell: 5–50 cm³\/cm²\/s", "Downproof rating requires: tight weave (T300+) AND air permeability <1 cm³\/cm²\/s. Coatings reduce air permeability to near zero. DWR alone does not affect air permeability significantly.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nWind-resistant \/ outerwear applications", "REQUIRED\nAir Permeability: Per VF Brand Performance Manual", "", "" ], [ "30", "MVTR \/ Breathability (Upright Cup Method)", "Performance & Weather Protection", "ISO \/ ASTM", "ISO 11092 \/ ASTM E96 (Method B)", "Water vapor transmission through fabric is measured using an upright cup of water at 38°C \/ 90% RH. Reports in g\/m²\/24h. Higher value = more breathable. Relevant for waterproof-breathable membranes.", "g\/m²\/24h", "Low: <3,000; Moderate: 3,000–8,000; High: 8,000–20,000; Ultra: >20,000", "ISO 11092 (Ret method) is most relevant for next-to-skin performance. ASTM E96B (cup method) gives higher absolute values — the two are not interchangeable. Specify which method when citing MVTR.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nOuterwear \/ breathable membrane fabrics", "OPTIONAL\nMVTR Cup: Per brand requirement for waterproof-breathable", "", "" ], [ "31", "MVTR \/ Breathability (Sweating Guarded Hotplate — ISO 11092)", "Performance & Weather Protection", "ISO", "ISO 11092 (Ret measurement)", "Evaporative resistance (Ret) of a fabric is measured on a heated, sweating plate under controlled conditions. Lower Ret = more breathable. The gold standard for functional breathability rating.", "Ret (m²·Pa\/W)", "Highly breathable: <6 Ret; Breathable: 6–13 Ret; Low breathability: >20 Ret", "ISO 11092 Ret is the industry standard for waterproof-breathable membranes (Gore-Tex, eVent, etc.). Must also measure thermal resistance (Rct). Report both Ret and Rct for complete performance profile.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nMembrane \/ technical fabrics (ISO 11092 Ret)", "OPTIONAL\nISO 11092 Ret: For membrane products", "", "" ], [ "32", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "N\/A", "OPTIONAL\nDownproof: For down-filled products", "", "" ], [ "▌ CHEMICAL, SAFETY & ECO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "33", "pH Value of Fabric Extract", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "ISO \/ AATCC", "ISO 3071 \/ AATCC 81", "Fabric is extracted in distilled water and the pH of the extract is measured. Extreme pH (very acidic or alkaline) can irritate skin and indicates residual processing chemicals.", "pH units", "Apparel: pH 4.0–7.5 (skin-safe range per OEKO-TEX)", "Synthetic fabrics from acid or disperse dyeing can retain acidic residuals (pH <4). DWR chemistry can also affect pH. pH must be tested on finished fabric with all applied finishes.", "NOT SPECIFIED\npH per RMM\/RMTL", "REQUIRED\npH compliance required under applicable law\n(CPSIA for US; REACH\/OEKO-TEX equivalent for EU)", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package includes pH\nOEKO-TEX range pH 4.0–7.5 target", "REQUIRED\npH: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nRSL failures: non-negotiable, CAP required\nNo MA for RSL or Product Safety failures", "", "" ], [ "34", "Formaldehyde Content", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "ISO \/ AATCC \/ JIS", "ISO 14184-1 \/ AATCC 112 \/ JIS L 1041", "Fabric is extracted in water and formaldehyde content is measured by colorimetric spectrophotometry. Formaldehyde is used in some wrinkle-resist and cross-linking finishes.", "ppm (mg\/kg)", "Baby: <20ppm; Skin contact: <75ppm; Non-skin: <300ppm (OEKO-TEX limits)", "Most synthetic fabrics have low inherent formaldehyde. Risk arises from certain functional finishes (anti-wrinkle, flame retardant). JIS L 1041 is particularly rigorous — required for Japanese market.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package", "REQUIRED\nFormaldehyde: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nCAP required for failure\nJIS L1041 for Japan market", "", "" ], [ "35", "Heavy Metals Content", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "ISO \/ EN", "ISO 105-E04 (extractable) \/ EN ISO 17072", "Fabric is extracted in artificial sweat or acid solution and heavy metal concentrations are measured by ICP-MS or AAS. Covers: Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr), Arsenic (As), Mercury (Hg), etc.", "mg\/kg (ppm) per metal", "Per OEKO-TEX 100 \/ REACH Annex XVII limits (varies per metal)", "Heavy metals enter through dyes (metal-complex dyes on Nylon), mordants, and pigments. Chromium from some leather-adjacent processing. Always test on finished, dyed fabric.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package — heavy metals", "REQUIRED\nHeavy Metals: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nCAP required for failure", "", "" ], [ "36", "Banned Azo Dyes", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "EU \/ ISO", "REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907\/2006 Annex XVII \/ ISO 14362-1", "Fabric is extracted in artificial sweat solution and analyzed by GC-MS for 24 banned aromatic amines that can be released by azo dye cleavage. Linked to carcinogenic risk.", "mg\/kg per amine", "Each restricted amine: <30 mg\/kg (EU REACH limit)", "Banned azo dyes are regulated under EU REACH Annex XVII — mandatory for EU import. Some disperse dyes used on PES are azo-based; acid dyes on Nylon carry risk. Run on all colored fabrics; required for OEKO-TEX certification.", "REQUIRED\nREACH compliance required for EU market; RSL per VF\/brand standards", "REQUIRED\nBanned Azo Dyes: Required under REACH Annex XVII (EU)\nand CPSIA (US children's products)\nCAP required for any failure", "REQUIRED\nSGS full package — banned azo dyes\nRSL failures are acted upon — marginal acceptance reviews\nper RMID Step 11", "REQUIRED\nBanned Azo Dyes: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nRSL FAILURE = NON-NEGOTIABLE\nCAP required; product rejected", "", "" ], [ "37", "Fluorocarbon \/ PFC Content (DWR)", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "ISO \/ CEN", "ISO 25101 \/ EN 17tbd; LC-MS\/MS Method", "Fabric is extracted and analyzed by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS\/MS) to detect and quantify per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) including PFOA, PFOS, and C6 fluorotelomers.", "ng\/m² or µg\/m² per compound", "PFOA: <1µg\/m²; PFOS: <1µg\/m²; Total PFAS target: <1µg\/m² per bluesign", "Mandatory for brands claiming PFC-free or C0 DWR. Required for bluesign, ZDHC MRSL, and many brand chemical compliance programs. Tests distinguish total PFAS vs. specific restricted compounds.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "SEE NOTES\nPFC\/Fluorocarbon: Policy requires compliance with all applicable laws\n→ PFOA\/PFOS restrictions apply under EPA \/ EU POPs Reg", "REQUIRED\nPFC\/Fluorocarbon in SGS full package\nAlo RMID Step 11: exception agreements signed for any approved deviations", "REQUIRED\nPFC \/ Fluorocarbon: VF RSL 2026 + CHEM-IQ STA\nC8 (PFOA\/PFOS) prohibited\nC6 restricted; C0 required per CHEM-IQ STA\nCAP required for failure", "", "" ], [ "38", "Restricted Substances — Pesticides", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "OEKO-TEX \/ ISO", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Annex 6 \/ ISO 11085", "Fabric is extracted and analyzed for residual pesticide and herbicide content. More relevant for natural fibers but required for synthetic-natural blends and recycled fibers from agricultural post-consumer streams.", "mg\/kg per compound", "Per OEKO-TEX 100 limits (substance-specific)", "Most relevant for recycled content fabrics (rPET from agricultural packaging, post-consumer blends). Pure virgin PES\/Nylon generally have very low pesticide risk.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nFor recycled content \/ rPET fabrics", "REQUIRED\nPesticides: VF RSL 2026 — per matrix\nRSL failure non-negotiable", "", "" ], [ "39", "Flame Retardancy (FR) — Vertical Burn", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "ASTM \/ ISO", "ASTM D6413 \/ ISO 15025", "Fabric specimen is suspended vertically and a defined flame is applied for specified time. After-flame time, afterglow time, and char length are measured. Required for workwear, children's sleepwear, and FR applications.", "Char length (mm); After-flame (s)", "Children's sleepwear (US): CPSC 1615\/1616; FR workwear: NFPA 2112 \/ EN ISO 11612", "Inherent FR fibers (meta-aramid, modacrylic) vs. FR finish on PES. FR finish on PES is not durable to repeated washing — must test after wash cycles. Untreated PES melts\/drips rather than burning.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nIf product carries FR claim or meets end-use requiring FR", "REQUIRED\nFlammability: VF Brand Performance Manual\nVendor must obtain FR test from fabric supplier\nCPSIA for US; GB standard for China", "", "" ], [ "40", "Restricted Flame Retardant Chemicals", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "EU \/ REACH", "REACH SVHC List \/ EU POPs Regulation; GC-MS analysis", "Fabric is extracted and analyzed for restricted halogenated flame retardants (e.g., PBDE, TRIS, HBCDD) that are banned under EU REACH or US CPSIA despite providing flame resistance.", "mg\/kg per compound", "Per REACH Annex XVII \/ SVHC thresholds (often <1000 ppm or <0.1%)", "Some FR finishes contain restricted halogenated compounds — must be confirmed absent even when FR performance is required. Non-halogenated FR systems (phosphorus-based) are the compliant alternative.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nRestricted FR chemicals in SGS package", "REQUIRED\nRestricted FR Chemicals: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nHalogenated FR compounds: non-negotiable failure", "", "" ], [ "41", "Nickel Release (Metal Hardware Adjacent)", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "EU \/ EN", "EN 1811 \/ EU Nickel Directive 94\/27\/EC", "For fabrics with metal components or metal-adjacent coatings, nickel release rate is tested by simulated sweat extraction. Relevant for buckles, zippers, rivets, and metallic-coated fabrics.", "µg\/cm²\/week", "<0.5 µg\/cm²\/week for skin-contact items (EU Nickel Directive)", "Directly applies to fabric only when metallic coatings (foil printing, metallic yarn) are used. Otherwise applies to trims — verify with trim\/hardware test reports.", "NOT SPECIFIED", "NOT SPECIFIED", "OPTIONAL\nIf metallic coating\/trim in design", "REQUIRED\nNickel Release: VF RSL 2026 — per matrix\nApplicable when metallic components present", "", "" ], [ "42", "Allergenic Disperse Dyes", "Chemical, Safety & Eco", "Oeko-Tex \/ EU", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Annex 4; HPLC analysis", "Fabric is extracted and analyzed for a panel of allergenic disperse dyes (e.g., Disperse Blue 1, 35, 102, 106, 124; Disperse Yellow 3, Orange 37\/76) known to cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.", "mg\/kg per dye", "Each: <50 mg\/kg (OEKO-TEX Standard 100 limit)", "Specific to synthetic (PES, Nylon, Acetate) fabrics — disperse dyes are not used on natural fibers. Critical for skin-contact products. Mandatory for OEKO-TEX 100 certification of PES fabrics.", "REQUIRED\nAllergenic disperse dyes on PES documented concern; per OEKO-TEX 100 limits", "NOT SPECIFIED", "REQUIRED\nAllergenic disperse dyes — SGS package", "REQUIRED\nAllergenic Disperse Dyes: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nFor all synthetic (PES\/PA) fabrics\nRSL failure non-negotiable", "", "" ] ] } }, "spec_hilo": { "PORTADA": { "total_rows": 60, "total_cols": "P", "preview": [ [ "", "ESTÁNDAR DE ESPECIFICACIÓN DE HILO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Summitex Woven Textiles · VISIONTEX, S.A. · Guatemala", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Taxonomía completa de atributos para hilados filamento sintéticos (DTY\/FDY\/NFY\/NTY\/PFY), elastano\/elastómero y construcciones cubiertas al aire (ACY\/ATY)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Versión", "", "v2.0 ES — 2026", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Normas", "", "ISO 2060 · ISO 2062 · ISO 5688 · ISO 16549 · ASTM D1907 · ASTM D2256 · ASTM D6720 · ASTM D4974 · DIN 53840 · AATCC 81 · AATCC 16", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Referencia", "", "Uster Statistics (objetivos percentil 5 \/ 25 \/ 50)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Alcance", "", "Poliéster DTY · FDY · PFY · POY · Nailon NFY · NTY · Elastano ELS\/LYC · Cubiertos ACY\/ATY", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Propósito", "", "Especificación de compra · CC entrante · Gradación de calidad · Requisitos COA proveedores · Cumplimiento normativo", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Tipos de fibra", "", "PET (poliéster) · PA6 (nailon 6) · PA6.6 (nailon 6.6) · PU (elastano\/elastómero) · construcciones cubiertas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "Nota", "", "Los rangos numéricos son consenso de industria de fuentes ISO\/ASTM\/BISFA\/Uster. Verificar umbrales específicos contra COAs actuales de proveedores antes de adoptar como especificaciones vinculantes.", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "ÍNDICE DE HOJAS", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "NOTACION", "", "Estándar de descripción canónica · 11 definiciones de campo · 11 reglas · 12 ejemplos antes\/después", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "FILAMENTO", "", "64 atributos · Hilados filamento (DTY\/FDY\/NFY\/NTY) · Grupos A–J · Normas, rangos, grados", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "ELASTANO", "", "14 atributos específicos del elastano desnudo (ELS\/Lycra\/Creora\/Roica)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "ACY", "", "Hilado cubierto al aire: especificación de 3 niveles (cobertor + elastano + construcción final)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "GRADOS", "", "Umbrales de grado AA\/A\/B\/C para 28 parámetros clave", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "USTER", "", "Referencias de Uster Statistics: objetivos percentil 5 \/ 25 \/ 50 por tipo de hilo", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "COA", "", "Requisitos de Certificado de Análisis: estándar \/ solicitar explícitamente \/ raramente proporcionado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "MUESTREO", "", "Plan AQL ISO 2859-1 de inspección entrante + distribución de ensayos planta vs lab externo", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "CUMPLIMIENTO", "", "OEKO-TEX 100, REACH SVHC, ZDHC MRSL, GRS\/RCS, Nike RSL, Bluesign", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ] ] }, "NOTACION": { "total_rows": 50, "total_cols": "L", "preview": [ [ "ESTÁNDAR DE NOTACIÓN — DESCRIPCIÓN CANÓNICA DEL HILO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Formato de descripción · 11 definiciones de campo · 11 reglas de notación · 12 ejemplos antes\/después", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "FORMATO DE DESCRIPCIÓN CANÓNICA", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "[TIPO_FIBRA] – [GRADO_POLIMERO] [DENIER\/FILS] [CABO] [SECC_TRANSV] [CALENTADORES] [NIVEL_FIJADO] [TORSION+DIR] [+COMPONENTE2 DENIER] [REC] [TEC_ESPECIAL]", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Campos en VERDE = Obligatorios — siempre presentes", "", "", "", "Campos en ÁMBAR = Condicionales — incluir cuando no es valor por defecto", "", "", "", "Campos en GRIS = Omitir — almacenados en maestro de artículos, nunca en descripción", "", "", "" ], [ "Pos", "Nombre del Campo", "Requisito", "Propósito", "Valores Permitidos", "Ejemplo", "Reglas y Notas", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "1", "TIPO_FIBRA", "Obligatorio", "Tipo de fibra y proceso de fabricación", "DTY · FDY · NFY · NTY · PFY · ACY · ATY · ALG · POL\/ALG · VIS · ELS", "DTY", "Siempre el primer campo. Nunca abreviar de otra forma.", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "2", "GRADO_POLIMERO", "Condicional", "Grado de polímero — solo para nailon (omitir para PET)", "6 · 6.6", "NFY-6", "Solo para NFY\/NTY\/ACY de nailon. Formato: FIBRA-GRADO: NFY-6, NFY-6.6", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "3", "DENIER\/FILS", "Obligatorio", "Densidad lineal \/ número de filamentos", "Formato: DDD\/FFF · ej. 75\/72, 150\/144, 300\/96", "75\/72", "Para hilado estambrado (ALG): título\/cabo en Ne: 30\/1, 40\/2", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "4", "CABO", "Condicional", "Cabo o extremos en paralelo (omitir si es simple)", "\/2 · \/3 (retorcido) · ×2 · ×3 (extremos paralelos)", "75\/72\/2", "Solo escribir cuando >1. \/2 = retorcidos juntos; ×2 = extremos paralelos en el mismo paquete", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "5", "SECCION_TRANSV", "Obligatorio", "Sección transversal y brillo", "SD · BR · FD · CAT · RIG · RD · OC · TRI · HOL", "SD", "NUNCA omitir aunque sea obvio. SD es el más común pero debe indicarse siempre.", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "6", "CALENTADORES", "Condicional", "Número de calentadores de texturado (solo DTY\/NTY)", "1H · 2H", "2H", "Omitir para FDY, PFY, ATY. 1H=mayor volumen\/contracción; 2H=más estable\/fijado", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "7", "NIVEL_FIJADO", "Condicional", "Nivel de intermingling\/fijado (solo DTY\/NTY)", "SIM · HIM · NIM", "HIM", "SIM=poco fijado; HIM=muy interminglado; NIM=sin intermingling. Omitir para hilados planos", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "8", "TORSION", "Condicional", "Nivel de torsión + dirección (omitir si 0 TPM)", "Formato: TPM+DIR · ej. 600S · 1200Z · 800S", "600S", "Número primero, luego dirección. Por defecto 0 (sin torsión) — omitir completamente.", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "9", "+COMPONENTE2", "Condicional", "Componente secundario (elastano u otro hilo)", "+ELS40 · +LYC40 · +ELS70 · +T400 · +PFY50", "+ELS40", "Denier justo después del código de fibra, sin espacio, sin sufijo \/1. Dos extremos: ELS40×2", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "10", "REC", "Condicional", "Indicador de contenido reciclado (omitir si es virgen)", "REC", "REC", "Normalizado desde RECICLADO. Siempre el último campo antes del sufijo de tecnología especial.", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "11", "TEC_ESPECIAL", "Condicional", "Tecnología especial o acabado de marca", "T400 · T800 · TASLAN · SORONA · PBT · SORBTEK · REFLEXX · REPREVE · HCR", "TASLAN", "Siempre aparece al final de la cadena de descripción.", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "REGLAS DE NOTACIÓN", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Regla", "Título", "Descripción", "", "", "Ejemplo (Correcto vs Incorrecto)", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R01", "El orden de campos es fijo", "Todos los campos posicionales aparecen siempre en la secuencia definida. Nunca reordenar por legibilidad. La posición es la clave de análisis para los sistemas ERP\/MES.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD 2H HIM REC NO DTY 75\/72 HIM SD 2H RECICLADO", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R02", "El nombre del proveedor nunca va en la descripción", "Los proveedores (STARLON, UNIFI, UTEXSA, CS AMERICA…) se almacenan en la tabla de Proveedores Aprobados vinculada por código interno. La descripción describe el hilo, no la relación comercial.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM REC NO DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM RECICLADO-STARLON", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R03", "El denier del ELS no lleva barra diagonal", "ELS 40\/1 y ELS 40 son idénticos — siempre escribir ELS40. El sufijo \/1 de cabo es redundante y crea duplicados fantasma. Solo escribir ELS40×2 cuando físicamente hay dos extremos de elastano.", "", "", "+ELS40 NO +ELS 40\/1 NO +ELS 40", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R04", "RECICLADO → REC", "Normalizar el indicador de sostenibilidad a REC (3 caracteres). Siempre en la última posición antes del sufijo de tecnología especial. Consistente para todos los tipos de fibra.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM REC NO DTY 75\/72 SD SIM 1H RECICLADO", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R05", "Cabo simple no se escribe", "\/1 nunca se escribe. Solo aparecen \/2, \/3, ×2, ×3 cuando el cabo > 1. Omitir el designador de cabo para hilados de un solo cabo.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD NO DTY 75\/72\/1 SD", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R06", "SD \/ Sección transversal siempre indicada", "El código de sección transversal nunca se asume ni se omite aunque SD sea el valor por defecto obvio. Omitirlo crea ambigüedad con variantes BR o CAT.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM NO DTY 75\/72 1H SIM", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R07", "CAT siempre explícito", "La tinturabilidad catiónica cambia toda la receta de tintorería (colorante básico, pH diferente, temperatura). Debe aparecer siempre en la descripción — ocultarlo en el maestro de artículos es un riesgo de producción.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 CAT 1H SIM NO DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM [CAT en notas]", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R08", "Torsión: número antes que dirección", "El valor de TPM siempre precede a la letra de dirección. Sin guión entre ellos. Cuando el hilo secundario tiene su propia torsión, usar paréntesis.", "", "", "DTY 150\/68 SD +ELS40(600S) NO DTY 150\/68 SD +ELS40 S-600", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R09", "Ensamblaje paralelo usa ×", "Dos extremos de hilo completo usados en paralelo (sin retorcer juntos) se escriben ×2, no \/2. Distinción: \/2 = dos simples retorcidos en un hilo; ×2 = dos extremos en el mismo paquete o corridos simultáneamente.", "", "", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM ×2 vs DTY 75\/72\/2 SD 1H SIM", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R10", "Tecnología especial siempre al final", "Los sufijos de tecnología (T400, TASLAN, SORONA, SORBTEK, REFLEXX) siempre aparecen al final de la cadena de descripción, después del indicador REC.", "", "", "ATY-6 160\/144 BR REC TASLAN NO ATY-6 160\/144 BR TASLAN REC", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "R11", "El código interno es la clave primaria", "La cadena de descripción es una etiqueta de visualización\/comunicación — NO es la clave primaria. El código interno (DTY-0063, NFY-0002) es la clave del sistema. Dos hilos pueden tener la misma descripción si se abastecen diferente — el código los distingue.", "", "", "Código interno: DTY-0063 Descripción: DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM REC", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "EJEMPLOS ANTES → DESPUÉS (de la lista de hilados Summitex)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "#", "ANTES (original — no estándar)", "DESPUÉS (canónico — nuevo estándar)", "Cambios Aplicados", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "1", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM RECICLADO-STARLON", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM REC", "RECICLADO→REC; Starlon movido a tabla de proveedores", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "2", "DTY 75\/72 SD 2H HIM RECICLADO-CS AMERICA", "DTY 75\/72 SD 2H HIM REC", "Proveedor eliminado; REC normalizado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "3", "NFY 6, 70\/68\/2 SD + ELS 40 600 TPM S", "NFY-6 70\/68\/2 SD +ELS40 600S", "Separador de grado coma→guión; ELS40 sin barra; formato TPM 600S", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "4", "ATYN 160\/144 FD 6 TASLAN RECICLADO-LEALEA", "ATY-6 160\/144 BR REC TASLAN", "ATYN→ATY-6; FD→BR (completamente brillante); TASLAN al final; Lealea→tabla de proveedores", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "5", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H ELS 40\/1-CS AMERICA", "DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM +ELS40", "Nivel de fijado SIM faltaba — añadido; ELS40 \/1 eliminado; proveedor eliminado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "6", "DTY 75\/36 T400", "DTY 75\/36 SD - - T400", "Sección transversal añadida; calentador\/fijado faltante = guiones; T400 al final", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "7", "DTY 100\/96 SD 1H SIM RECICLADO", "DTY 100\/96 SD 1H SIM REC", "Espacios extra eliminados; RECICLADO→REC; forma canónica", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "8", "ALG 30\/1 OE RECICLADO", "ALG 30\/1 OE REC", "RECICLADO→REC también para hilados estambrados", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "9", "NTY 70\/48 FD RECICLADO + ELS 40\/1 X2", "NTY 70\/48 BR REC +ELS40×2", "FD→BR; notación ELS40×2; REC normalizado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "10", "POL\/ALG 30\/1 35\/65", "POL\/ALG 30\/1 OE 35\/65", "Sistema de hilatura OE era implícito — ahora explícito según estándar", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "11", "DTY 150\/144 SD + ELS 40 1000 TPM S-STARLON", "DTY 150\/144 SD +ELS40 1000S", "Formato comprimido; Starlon a tabla de proveedores", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "12", "ACY 150\/144 SD + ELS 40\/1", "ACY 150\/144 SD +ELS40", "ELS40 \/1 eliminado; formato limpio", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ] ] }, "NOTACION_VISUAL": { "total_rows": 34, "total_cols": "L", "preview": [ [ "ESTÁNDAR DE NOTACIÓN — REFERENCIA VISUAL POR CAMPO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Cada COLUMNA = un campo posicional de la cadena canónica · Verde=Obligatorio · Ámbar=Condicional · Orden izq→der = posición en la descripción", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Cadena\nejemplo:", "DTY", "NFY-6", "75\/72", "\/2", "SD", "1H", "SIM", "600S", "+ELS40", "REC", "T400" ], [ "POSICIÓN", "1", "2", "3", "4", "5", "6", "7", "8", "9", "10", "11" ], [ "CAMPO (código)", "TIPO_FIBRA", "GRADO_POLIMERO", "DENIER\/FILS", "CABO", "SECC_TRANSV", "CALENTADORES", "NIVEL_FIJADO", "TORSION+DIR", "+COMPONENTE_2", "REC", "TEC_ESPECIAL" ], [ "Nombre ES", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "Grado de Polímero", "Densidad Lineal \/ Nº Filamentos", "Cabo \/ Extremos en Paralelo", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "Calentadores de Texturado", "Nivel de Intermingling \/ Fijado", "Torsión (TPM) + Dirección", "+Componente Secundario + Denier", "Contenido Reciclado", "Tecnología \/ Acabado Especial" ], [ "Name EN", "Fiber \/ Process Type", "Polymer Grade", "Linear Density \/ Filament Count", "Ply \/ Parallel Ends", "Cross-Section & Luster", "Texturing Heaters", "Set Level \/ Intermingling", "Twist Level (TPM) + Direction", "+Secondary Component + Denier", "Recycled Content Flag", "Special Technology \/ Finish" ], [ "REQUISITO", "OBLIGATORIO", "CONDICIONAL", "OBLIGATORIO", "CONDICIONAL", "OBLIGATORIO", "CONDICIONAL", "CONDICIONAL", "CONDICIONAL", "CONDICIONAL", "CONDICIONAL", "CONDICIONAL" ], [ "Aplica a", "TODOS los hilados", "NFY · NTY · ACY nailon únicamente", "TODOS — ALG usa Ne\/Cabo (ej. 30\/1)", "Solo cuando cabo > 1 · omitir si es simple", "TODOS — nunca omitir aunque sea SD", "DTY · NTY únicamente\nOmitir: FDY, PFY, ATY, NFY", "DTY · NTY únicamente\nOmitir: FDY, PFY, ATY, NFY", "Hilados retorcidos únicamente\nOmitir si TPM = 0", "ACY · ATY · Cubiertos con elastano\nOmitir si un solo componente", "Todos los hilados con contenido reciclado\nOmitir si 100% virgen", "Solo cuando la tecnología es parte de la identidad\ndel hilo — posición siempre al final" ], [ "Propósito ES \/ EN", "ES: Identifica el polímero y proceso de fabricación\n\nEN: Identifies the polymer and manufacturing process", "ES: Distingue grado nailon (PA6 vs 6.6). PET no lo necesita.\n\nEN: Distinguishes nylon grade (PA6 vs 6.6). Not used for PET.", "ES: Define grosor y microestructura del hilo\n\nEN: Defines yarn thickness and microstructure", "ES: Indica retorcido o ensamblaje en paralelo\n\nEN: Indicates twisted or parallel assembly", "ES: Define brillo, tinturabilidad y tacto del hilo\n\nEN: Defines luster, dyeing behavior and fabric hand", "ES: Determina grado de fijado del rizo y contracción residual\n\nEN: Determines crimp set degree and residual shrinkage", "ES: Define cohesión del hilo y tejibilidad sin encolado\n\nEN: Defines yarn cohesion and weavability without sizing", "ES: Torsiones por metro y sentido de giro del hilo\n\nEN: Twists per meter and twist direction", "ES: Hilo secundario en construcciones cubiertas o compuestas\n\nEN: Secondary yarn in covered or composite constructions", "ES: Indica presencia de fibra reciclada post-consumo\n\nEN: Indicates presence of recycled fiber content", "ES: Tecnología constructiva especial — SIEMPRE al final\n\nEN: Special construction technology — ALWAYS last field" ], [ "Ejemplos canónicos", "DTY · FDY · NFY-6 · NTY · ACY", "NFY-6 · NFY-6.6 · (omitir PET)", "75\/72 · 150\/144 · 300\/96 · 30\/1", "\/2 · \/3 · ×2 · (omitir)", "SD · BR · CAT · FD · TRI", "1H · 2H · (omitir FDY)", "SIM · HIM · NIM", "600S · 1200Z · 800S · (omitir)", "+ELS40 · +LYC40 · +ELS70 · (omitir)", "REC · (omitir)", "T400 · TASLAN · SORONA · (omitir)" ], [ "── VALORES ──", "11 valores", "3 valores", "7 valores", "5 valores", "8 valores", "3 valores", "4 valores", "5 valores", "6 valores", "2 valores", "9 valores" ], [ " Val 1", "DTY\nDraw Textured Yarn — Poliéster texturado", "6\nNailon 6 — Tf ≈215°C · más económico", "DDD\/FFF\nFormato filamento: denier\/filamentos", "(omitir)\nCabo simple — NUNCA escribir \/1", "SD\nSemimate — 0.3–0.5% TiO₂ · más común en tejido", "1H\nUn calentador — mayor volumen · CAE 6–10%", "SIM\nSlightly Intermingled · 30–60 nips\/m · poco fijado", "(omitir)\nSin torsión — valor por defecto · TPM = 0", "(omitir)\nHilo de un solo componente", "REC\nContiene fibra reciclada (normalizado RECICLADO→REC)", "(omitir)\nSin tecnología especial" ], [ " Val 2", "FDY\nFully Drawn Yarn — Poliéster plano estirado", "6.6\nNailon 6.6 — Tf ≈260°C · mayor resistencia al calor", "75\/72\n75 denier · 72 filamentos · dpf=1.04", "\/2\nDos cabos RETORCIDOS juntos en un hilo", "BR\nBrillante — sin TiO₂ (<0.05%) · alta reflexión", "2H\nDos calentadores — más estable · CAE 2–5%", "HIM\nHighly Intermingled · 100–150 nips\/m · muy fijado", "600S\n600 TPM · dirección S (zurda\/izquierda)", "+ELS40\nElastano genérico 40d (=+ELS 40\/1 — ¡sin \/1!)", "(omitir)\nHilo 100% virgen — omitir", "T400\nBicomponente Lycra T400 (PTT\/PET) autorrizable" ], [ " Val 3", "NFY\nNylon Filament Yarn — Nailon plano", "(omitir)\nPara PET \/ ELS — no aplica", "150\/144\n150 denier · 144 filamentos · dpf=1.04", "\/3\nTres cabos RETORCIDOS juntos", "FD\nFull-Dull \/ Total mate — 1.5–3.0% TiO₂", "(omitir)\nFDY \/ PFY \/ ATY \/ NFY — no aplica", "NIM\nNon-Intermingled · <30 nips\/m · sin fijado", "1200Z\n1200 TPM · dirección Z (diestra\/derecha)", "+LYC40\nLycra® marca 40 denier", "", "T800\nBicomponente Lycra T800 — mayor potencia" ], [ " Val 4", "NTY\nNylon Textured Yarn — Nailon texturado", "", "300\/96\n300 denier · 96 filamentos · dpf=3.1", "×2\nDos extremos PARALELOS (no retorcidos)", "CAT\nCatiónico — PET modificado · tinte básico ⚠", "", "(omitir)\nFDY \/ PFY \/ NFY \/ ATY — no aplica", "800S\n800 TPM · dirección S", "+ELS70\nElastano genérico 70 denier", "", "TASLAN\nTexturado por chorro de aire — volumen natural" ], [ " Val 5", "PFY\nPolyester Filament Yarn — Poliéster plano\/rígido", "", "50\/36\n50 denier · 36 filamentos · dpf=1.4", "×3\nTres extremos PARALELOS (no retorcidos)", "RIG\nRígido \/ Plano — sin textura", "", "", "ddddX\ndddd = valor TPM · X = S o Z · sin guion", "+ELS40×2\nDos extremos elastano 40d en paralelo", "", "SORONA\nPTT biopolímero (DuPont Sorona®)" ], [ " Val 6", "POY\nPartially Oriented Yarn — Preorientado", "", "30\/1\nALG: Ne 30 count, cabo simple", "", "TRI\nTrilobal — sección triangular · brillo especial", "", "", "", "+T400\nBicomponente T400 (PTT\/PET) sin elastano", "", "PBT\nPolibutileno tereftalato — elasticidad intrínseca" ], [ " Val 7", "ACY\nAir Covered Yarn — Cubierto al aire", "", "75\/72\/2\nCon cabo retorcido: 2 cabos de 75\/72", "", "OC\nOctalobal — sección octagonal", "", "", "", "", "", "SORBTEK\nGestión de humedad Unifi®" ], [ " Val 8", "ATY\nAir Textured Yarn — Taslan \/ texturado aire", "", "", "", "HOL\nHueco — filamento con cavidad interior", "", "", "", "", "", "REFLEXX\nReflectante Unifi®" ], [ " Val 9", "ALG\nAlgodón — hilado estambrado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "REPREVE\nMarca reciclado Unifi® (usar también REC)" ], [ " Val 10", "POL\/ALG\nMezcla Poliéster\/Algodón", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ " Val 11", "ELS\/LYC\nElastano desnudo (Spandex\/Lycra)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "⚠ Reglas", "Siempre el PRIMER campo, posición fija. Nunca abreviar de otra forma.", "Separar con guion: NFY-6, NFY-6.6. Omitir completamente para poliéster.", "ALG\/estambrado: Ne count\/cabo (30\/1). Extremos paralelos → ×2 NO \/2.", "CLAVE: \/2 = retorcido en un hilo · ×2 = paralelos separados. ¡No confundir!", "NUNCA omitir. CAT siempre explícito — cambia toda la receta de tintorería.", "1H = hilo más vivo\/activo. 2H = más estable en tintorería. Crítico para receta.", "HIM = mejor cohesión para urdimbre sin cola. NIM = requiere encolado.", "Número PRIMERO, luego dirección, sin guion. 2º comp.: +ELS40(600S).", "REGLA: +ELS40 sin \/1 ni espacio. \/1 es siempre redundante.", "Siempre ANTES de tecnología especial. RECICLADO (9 chars) → REC (3 chars).", "SIEMPRE el ÚLTIMO campo. Después del REC. Ej: DTY 75\/72 SD 1H SIM REC TASLAN" ], [ "MATRIZ DE APLICABILIDAD POR TIPO DE HILO ✓=Siempre presente ○=Condicional —=No aplica", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "DTY · DTY · Poliéster Texturado", "✓", "—", "✓", "○", "✓", "✓", "✓", "○", "○", "○", "○" ], [ "FDY\/PFY · FDY\/PFY · Poliéster Plano", "✓", "—", "✓", "○", "✓", "—", "—", "○", "○", "○", "○" ], [ "NFY · NFY · Nailon Plano", "✓", "✓", "✓", "○", "✓", "—", "—", "○", "○", "○", "○" ], [ "NTY · NTY · Nailon Texturado", "✓", "✓", "✓", "○", "✓", "✓", "✓", "○", "○", "○", "○" ], [ "ACY\/ATY · ACY\/ATY · Cubierto Aire", "✓", "○", "✓", "○", "✓", "○", "○", "○", "✓", "○", "○" ], [ "ELS\/LYC · ELS\/LYC · Elastano Desnudo", "✓", "—", "✓", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "○", "—" ], [ "ALG · ALG · Algodón Estambrado", "✓", "—", "✓", "○", "—", "—", "—", "○", "—", "○", "—" ] ] }, "SPEC_CONDENSADA": { "total_rows": 58, "total_cols": "Y", "preview": [ [ "ESPECIFICACIÓN CONDENSADA — TODOS LOS ATRIBUTOS × TIPO DE HILO × GRADO (AA \/ A \/ B)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "CUÁNDO USAR — Propósito de cada atributo: [ Para la Orden de Compra ] = dato que debe ir en la OC antes de comprar [ Identifica el hilo ] = define qué hilo es, sin él no se puede identificar [ Control de Calidad ] = se mide al recibir para verificar si el hilo cumple [ COMPRA + IDENT. + CC ] = los tres | Grados: AA = Exportación \/ clase mundial · A = Estándar de industria · B = Comercial \/ commodity", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "DTY", "", "", "FDY\/PFY", "", "", "NFY", "", "", "NTY", "", "", "ELS", "", "", "ACY\/ATY", "", "" ], [ "Grp", "Atributo", "Nombre Completo del Atributo", "Unidad", "Norma de Ensayo", "Dónde se Prueba", "Cuándo Usar\n(Propósito)", "AA", "A", "B", "AA", "A", "B", "AA", "A", "B", "AA", "A", "B", "AA", "A", "B", "AA", "A", "B" ], [ " GRUPO A ── IDENTIDAD Y CLASIFICACIÓN", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A", "Tipo Fibra", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "—", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "COA del proveedor", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta", "Verif. DSC", "Decl. firmada", "Etiqueta" ], [ "A", "Grado Polímero", "Grado Polímero PA6\/6.6 (solo nailon)", "Tf °C", "ASTM D3418 DSC", "Lab externo", "COMPRA +\nIDENT. + CC", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "DSC certificado", "DSC requerido", "Declaración", "DSC certificado", "DSC requerido", "Declaración", "—", "—", "—", "DSC si nailon", "DSC si nailon", "Declaración" ], [ "A", "Sección \/ Brillo", "Sección Transversal y Brillo (SD\/BR\/CAT)", "—", "ISO 137 \/ XRF ash", "Lab externo", "COMPRA +\nIDENT. + CC", "XRF + foto", "XRF", "Declarado", "XRF + foto", "XRF", "Declarado", "XRF + foto", "XRF", "Declarado", "XRF + foto", "XRF", "Declarado", "—", "—", "—", "XRF + foto", "XRF", "Declarado" ], [ "A", "Tinturabilidad", "Tinturabilidad — ΔE mini-tintura laboratorio", "ΔE", "Lab mini-tinte + ISO 105-A02", "En planta (lab)", "COMPRA +\nIDENT. + CC", "ΔE ≤1.0", "ΔE ≤1.5", "ΔE ≤2.5", "ΔE ≤1.0", "ΔE ≤1.5", "ΔE ≤2.5", "ΔE ≤1.0", "ΔE ≤1.5", "ΔE ≤2.5", "ΔE ≤1.0", "ΔE ≤1.5", "ΔE ≤2.5", "—", "—", "—", "ΔE ≤1.0", "ΔE ≤1.5", "ΔE ≤2.5" ], [ " GRUPO B ── DENSIDAD LINEAL Y GEOMETRÍA", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B", "Denier Nominal", "Densidad Lineal Nominal (Denier)", "den", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "En planta", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "±5.0%", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%" ], [ "B", "dpf", "Denier por Filamento (dpf = den ÷ fils)", "dpf", "Cálculo", "En planta (cálculo)", "Identifica\nel hilo", "En COA", "En COA", "Calculado", "En COA", "En COA", "Calculado", "En COA", "En COA", "Calculado", "En COA", "En COA", "Calculado", "—", "—", "—", "En COA", "En COA", "Calculado" ], [ "B", "Torsión (TPM+Dir)", "Torsión — Nivel (TPM) y Dirección (S\/Z)", "TPM", "ISO 2061 \/ ASTM D1423", "En planta", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "±3% de spec", "±5%", "±8%", "±3%", "±5%", "±8%", "±3%", "±5%", "±8%", "±3%", "±5%", "±8%", "—", "—", "—", "±3%", "±5%", "±8%" ], [ "B", "Torque Residual", "Torque Residual — ángulo rotación de bucle", "°", "Zweigle G566 loop test", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "<20°", "<35°", "<45°", "<20°", "<35°", "<45°", "<20°", "<35°", "<45°", "<20°", "<35°", "<45°", "—", "—", "—", "<20°", "<35°", "<45°" ], [ " GRUPO C ── PROPIEDADES MECÁNICAS", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C", "Tenacidad", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "cN\/dtex", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", ">3.8", ">3.5", ">3.0", ">4.2", ">3.8", ">3.5", ">5.5", ">5.0", ">4.5", ">4.5", ">4.0", ">3.5", ">0.9 cN\/dtex", ">0.7", ">0.6", ">3.5 (cob.)", ">3.0", ">2.5" ], [ "C", "Alargamiento", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%) y su CV%", "%;CV%", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "CV<6%\n(20–30%)", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "CV<6%\n(15–25%)", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "CV<6%\n(30–50%)", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "CV<6%\n(20–35%)", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", ">600%", ">500%", ">400%", "CV<8%", "CV<10%", "CV<15%" ], [ "C", "F. Rotura CV%", "Fuerza de Rotura — CV% entre paquetes del lote", "CV%", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "—", "—", "—", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "—" ], [ "C", "Intermingling", "Intermingling — Nips por metro", "nips\/m", "DIN 66132 \/ aguja", "En planta", "COMPRA +\nIDENT. + CC", "±10 nips\/m", "±15", "±25", "±10 nips\/m", "±15", "±25", "±10 nips\/m", "±15", "±25", "±10 nips\/m", "±15", "±25", "—", "—", "—", "≥60 nips\/m", "≥50", "≥40" ], [ "C", "CC% (Rizo DTY)", "Contracción del Rizo % — CC (DTY\/NTY)", "cc%", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "±2% de spec", "±3%", "±5%", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "±2% de spec", "±3%", "±5%", "—", "—", "—", "±3%", "±5%", "—" ], [ "C", "CS% (Estab. Rizo)", "Estabilidad del Rizo % — CS (DTY\/NTY)", "cs%", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "—", "—", "—", ">80%", ">70%", "—" ], [ "C", "ELR% (Recuper.)", "Recuperación Elástica % — ELR (ELS\/T400)", "elr%", "ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", ">95%", ">90%", ">80%", ">95%", ">90%", ">80%" ], [ "C", "Set Permanente", "Set Permanente \/ Crecimiento % (ELS)", "set%", "ASTM D6720 cíclico", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "<5%", "<10%", "<15%", "<5%", "<10%", "<15%" ], [ "C", "Potencia @200% ELS", "Potencia a 200% Elongación — Elastano (cN)", "cN", "ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932", "Lab externo", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "±8% de spec", "±12%", "±18%", "±8%", "±12%", "±18%" ], [ " GRUPO D ── PROPIEDADES TÉRMICAS", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D", "CAE (BWS)", "Contracción Agua Ebullición % — CV% del lote", "%;CV%", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "En planta", "COMPRA +\nIDENT. + CC", "Lote CV<0.5%\n1H:6–10% \/ 2H:2–5%", "Lote CV<1.0%", "Lote CV<1.5%", "Lote CV<0.5%\nstd:5–9% \/ low:1–4%", "Lote CV<1.0%", "Lote CV<1.5%", "Lote CV<0.5%\nPA6:8–12% \/ PA6.6:5–9%", "Lote CV<1.0%", "Lote CV<1.5%", "Lote CV<0.5%\nPA6:8–12%", "Lote CV<1.0%", "Lote CV<1.5%", "—", "—", "—", "Lote CV<0.5%", "Lote CV<1.0%", "Lote CV<1.5%" ], [ "D", "CCS @ 160°C", "Contracción Calor Seco @ 160°C", "ccs%", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "<3% (set)\n<7% (raw)", "<5%", "<7%", "<3%", "<5%", "<7%", "<6% (PA6.6)", "<8%", "<10%", "<6%", "<8%", "<10%", "⚠ No >150°C", "—", "—", "<3%", "<5%", "<7%" ], [ "D", "CCS @ 180°C", "Contracción Calor Seco @ 180°C", "ccs%", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "<10% (PA6.6:5–10%)", "<12%", "<15%", "<10%", "<12%", "<15%", "⚠ Max 130°C", "—", "—", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%" ], [ "D", "HSE%", "Eficiencia de Termofijado HSE % (DTY\/NTY)", "hse%", "DIN 53866", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", ">88% (2H)\n>75% (1H)", ">80%", ">70%", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", ">88% (2H)", ">80%", ">70%", "—", "—", "—", ">80%", ">70%", "—" ], [ "D", "Límite Temp. ELS", "Límite Temperatura Elastano — retención potencia", "°C", "Horno envejecimiento", "Lab externo", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "≤130°C\n>95% potencia", "≤130°C\n>85% potencia", "≤130°C\n>70% potencia", "≤130°C proceso", "≤130°C", "—" ], [ " GRUPO E ── UNIFORMIDAD Y REGULARIDAD (USTER)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "E", "CVm% Uster", "CVm% — Variación de Masa (Uster)", "cvm%", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "≤0.7%\n(5th %ile)", "≤1.0%\n(25th %ile)", "≤1.5%\n(50th %ile)", "≤0.5%\n(5th %ile)", "≤0.8%\n(25th %ile)", "≤1.2%\n(50th %ile)", "≤0.50%", "≤0.75%", "≤1.10%", "≤0.55%", "≤0.85%", "≤1.30%", "—", "—", "—", "≤1.0%", "≤1.5%", "—" ], [ "E", "Lug. Finos\/km", "Lugares Finos (−50%) por km", "\/km", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "<5\/km", "<15\/km", "<35\/km", "<2\/km\n(5th)", "<8\/km\n(25th)", "<20\/km\n(50th)", "<2\/km", "<6\/km", "<15\/km", "<3\/km", "<10\/km", "<25\/km", "—", "—", "—", "<10\/km", "<25\/km", "—" ], [ "E", "Lug. Gruesos\/km", "Lugares Gruesos (+50%) por km", "\/km", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "<8\/km", "<25\/km", "<60\/km", "<5\/km\n(5th)", "<20\/km\n(25th)", "<50\/km\n(50th)", "<5\/km", "<15\/km", "<40\/km", "<6\/km", "<20\/km", "<50\/km", "—", "—", "—", "<15\/km", "<40\/km", "—" ], [ "E", "Neps\/km", "Neps por km (defecto de masa +200%)", "\/km", "Uster Tester 6", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "<5\/km", "<10\/km", "<20\/km", "<2\/km", "<5\/km", "<10\/km", "<2\/km", "<5\/km", "<10\/km", "<3\/km", "<8\/km", "<15\/km", "—", "—", "—", "<8\/km", "<15\/km", "—" ], [ "E", "Vellosidad H", "Vellosidad — Índice H (Hairiness Index)", "H", "Uster Tester 6 \/ ISO 13938", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "H<2.5", "H<3.5", "H<5.0", "H<1.5\n(5th)", "H<2.0\n(25th)", "H<3.5\n(50th)", "H<1.5", "H<2.0", "H<3.5", "H<2.0", "H<3.0", "H<4.5", "—", "—", "—", "H<3.0", "H<4.5", "—" ], [ "E", "Espectrograma", "Espectrograma — Defectos Periódicos (chimeneas)", "—", "Uster Tester 6 \/ Classimat 5", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "Sin chimeneas", "Sin ch. mayor", "Period. menor", "Sin chimeneas", "Sin ch. mayor", "Period. menor", "Sin chimeneas", "Sin ch. mayor", "Period. menor", "Sin chimeneas", "Sin ch. mayor", "Period. menor", "—", "—", "—", "Sin chimeneas", "Sin ch. mayor", "—" ], [ "E", "CV% Cono a Cono", "CV% Denier cono a cono — mismo lote", "cv%", "ISO 2060 (≥10 conos)", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "<1.5%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%", "<1.5%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%", "<1.5%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%", "<1.5%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%", "<5.0%", "<1.5%", "<2.0%", "<3.0%" ], [ " GRUPO F ── SUPERFICIE Y ACABADO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "F", "OPU %", "Aceite de Ensimaje % (OPU — Oil Pick-Up)", "% owf", "ASTM D2257 \/ Soxhlet", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "±0.2% (spec:2.5–4.5%)", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "±0.2% (spec:0.8–1.2%)", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "±0.2% (spec:0.6–1.0%)", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "±0.2% (spec:2.0–4.0%)", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "—", "—", "—", "±0.2%", "±0.3%", "±0.5%" ], [ "F", "Fricción μ-YTM", "Fricción Hilo-Metal μ-YTM (capstan @ 200m\/min)", "μ", "ASTM D3108 \/ Rothschild", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "±0.02 (PET:0.18–0.35)", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.02 (PET:0.18–0.35)", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.02 (PA:0.15–0.25)", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.02 (PA:0.15–0.25)", "±0.03", "±0.05", "—", "—", "—", "±0.03", "±0.05", "—" ], [ "F", "Carga Estática", "Carga Electrostática generada (V)", "V", "AATCC 134 \/ IEC 61340", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "<500V (PA más sensible)", "<1000V", "<2000V", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "—", "—", "—", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V" ], [ "F", "Filamentos Rotos", "Filamentos Rotos por 1000m (visual pizarrón negro)", "\/1000m", "Visual blackboard", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "—", "—", "—", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m" ], [ "F", "Uniform. Tinte ΔE", "Uniformidad de Tinte ΔE — cono a cono", "ΔE", "Lab mini-tinte + ASTM D2244", "En planta (lab)", "Control de\nCalidad", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "—", "—", "—", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5" ], [ " GRUPO G ── QUÍMICO Y CUMPLIMIENTO NORMATIVO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "G", "pH Extracto", "pH del Extracto Acuoso (10g\/100ml, 30min hervor)", "pH", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0" ], [ "G", "OEKO-TEX 100", "Certificación OEKO-TEX Standard 100", "Clase", "OEKO-TEX Association", "Lab certificado", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III", "Clase I\/II + Nº", "Clase II", "Clase III" ], [ "G", "REACH SVHC", "Declaración REACH SVHC — sustancias <0.1%", "—", "EU REACH 1907\/2006", "Lab certificado", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial", "Completa <0.1%", "Completa", "Parcial" ], [ "G", "Resist. UV", "Resistencia UV — Escala Lana Azul (\/8)", "Lana Azul", "AATCC 16 \/ ISO 105-B02", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "≥5\/8 (ext.)", "≥4\/8", "≥3\/8", "≥5\/8 (ext.)", "≥4\/8", "≥3\/8", "≥5\/8 (ext.)", "≥4\/8", "≥3\/8", "≥5\/8 (ext.)", "≥4\/8", "≥3\/8", "≥4\/8 estab.", "≥3\/8", "—", "≥5\/8", "≥4\/8", "≥3\/8" ], [ "G", "Resist. Cloro", "Resistencia al Cloro ΔE (natación\/activo)", "ΔE", "AATCC 162 \/ ISO 105-E03", "Lab externo", "Control de\nCalidad", "ΔE≤2", "ΔE≤3", "ΔE≤5", "ΔE≤2", "ΔE≤3", "ΔE≤5", "ΔE≤2", "ΔE≤3", "ΔE≤5", "ΔE≤2", "ΔE≤3", "ΔE≤5", "Lycra Xtra Life\nΔE≤2", "Grado resist.\nΔE≤3", "Estándar degrada", "ΔE≤2", "ΔE≤3", "ΔE≤5" ], [ " GRUPO H ── PROCESO Y PAQUETE", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "H", "Long. Paquete", "Longitud por Paquete (warp≥20,000m recomendado)", "m", "(peso g × 9000) ÷ denier", "En planta (cálculo)", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", ">25,000m", ">20,000m", ">10,000m", ">25,000m", ">20,000m", ">10,000m", ">25,000m", ">20,000m", ">10,000m", ">25,000m", ">20,000m", ">10,000m", ">8,000m", ">5,000m", ">3,000m", ">20,000m", ">15,000m", ">8,000m" ], [ "H", "Tipo Enrollado", "Tipo de Enrollado del Paquete", "—", "Visual \/ spec proveedor", "En planta", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "SD-Wind", "SD o precisión", "Según suminist.", "SD-Wind", "SD o precisión", "Según suminist.", "SD-Wind", "SD o precisión", "Según suminist.", "SD-Wind", "SD o precisión", "Según suminist.", "Precisión", "Precisión", "Cross-wind", "SD-Wind", "SD o precisión", "Según suminist." ], [ "H", "Vida Útil ELS", "Vida Útil \/ Fecha Producción — solo elastano", "meses", "Etiqueta proveedor", "COA del proveedor", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "—", "Fecha+FIFO\n≤12 meses", "Mes\/Año+FIFO", "Solo año", "Fecha+FIFO", "Mes\/Año", "—" ], [ " GRUPO J ── COMERCIAL Y TRAZABILIDAD", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "J", "Trazabilidad Lote", "Trazabilidad de Lote — cono→plegador→rollo", "—", "MES interno \/ ISO 9001", "En planta (MES)", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "Completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida", "Completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida", "Completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida", "Completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida", "Completa + fecha", "Lote + fecha", "Solo lote", "Completa", "Lote trazable", "—" ], [ "J", "GRS \/ RCS", "Certificación GRS\/RCS (hilados reciclados REC)", "—", "Textile Exchange GRS v4.0", "COA por lote", "Para la\nOrden de Compra", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado", "GRS+TC\/lote", "RCS+TC\/lote", "Autodeclarado" ], [ "J", "Plan AQL", "Plan de Muestreo AQL — Inspección entrante", "—", "ISO 2859-1 \/ ANSI Z1.4", "En planta", "Control de\nCalidad", "AQL 1.0 warp\nAQL 2.5 weft", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0", "AQL 1.0 warp\nAQL 2.5 weft", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0", "AQL 1.0 warp\nAQL 2.5 weft", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0", "AQL 1.0 warp\nAQL 2.5 weft", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0", "AQL 1.0", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0", "AQL 1.0", "AQL 2.5", "AQL 4.0" ] ] }, "SPEC_POR_TIPO": { "total_rows": 308, "total_cols": "M", "preview": [ [ "ESPECIFICACIÓN TÉCNICA CONSOLIDADA — POR TIPO DE HILO", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Ordenado: Tipo de Fibra\/Proceso → Grupo\/Categoría → Atributo | Normas ISO\/ASTM\/DIN\/AATCC · Grados AA\/A\/B\/C · Prueba: Planta vs Lab externo", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Código", "Atributo \/ Campo", "Tipo", "Norma(s) de Ensayo", "Rango Típico \/ Valores", "Grado AA", "Grado A", "Grado B", "Dónde\nse Prueba", "Propósito", "Descripción e Impacto en Tejido", "Nota \/ Método", "Familias de Hilo" ], [ " ◆ DTY — DRAW TEXTURED YARN (POLIÉSTER TEXTURADO) | Polyester Draw Textured Yarn", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ " A · Identidad y Clasificación", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A01", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "ENUM", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "DTY·FDY·NFY·NTY·PFY·POY·ACY·ATY·ALG", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "COA", "TODO", "Clasificación primaria: polímero + proceso de fabricación. Debe coincidir exactamente con la especificación pedida — un DTY y un FDY del mismo denier se comportan de forma completamente diferente en el telar.", "Identidad — verificar en recepción", "TODOS" ], [ "A03", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "ENUM", "Microscopía óptica (ISO 137)", "SD (semimate)·BR (brillante\/FD)·CAT (catiónico)·RIG (plano)·TRI (trilobal)·OC (octalobal)·HOL (hueco)", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "LAB", "ID", "Determina brillo, comportamiento en tintorería, gestión de humedad. TiO₂: SD≈0.3–0.5%, total mate≈2–3%, brillante<0.05%. CAT requiere baño de colorante básico.", "Verificado por microscopía de sección transversal", "TODOS" ], [ "A04", "Tipo de Tinturabilidad", "ENUM", "Prueba de tinte en miniatura de laboratorio", "STD (disperso) · CAT (catiónico) · ÁCIDO (nailon) · DISP-únicamente", "Prueba de lab", "Prueba de lab", "Declarado", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe coincidir con la receta de tintorería. CAT en baño disperso → barré grave. Confirmar por tintura miniatura de laboratorio antes de comprometer producción. Toma 2h pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "CRÍTICO: Verificar siempre designación CAT antes de urdir", "TODOS" ], [ " B · Densidad Lineal y Geometría", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B06", "Densidad Lineal — Nominal (Denier)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "20·50·75·100·150·167·200·300·600·900 denier \n Microfibra <1.0 dpf", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Ensayo por método de madeja: devanar madeja de 100m ×90 = 9000m equivalente; pesar en balanza analítica. Ensayo rápido en planta. La CV% de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto.", "Devanadora de madejas + balanza analítica. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B07", "Tolerancia de Denier (±%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "±1.5% (AA) → ±4.0% (C) del nominal", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe indicarse en cada OC. Asimetría de tolerancia común — los proveedores tienden a entregar ligeramente por encima del nominal. Tolerancia ajustada (±2%) para urdimbre; ±3% aceptable para trama.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada orden de compra", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B08", "Número de Filamentos", "ENTERO", "Conteo directo \/ cálculo dpf", "36·48·72·96·144·288·408 filamentos \n dpf = denier ÷ número de filamentos", "Exacto", "Exacto", "±1 filamento", "LAB", "ID", "Mayor número de filamentos → mayor suavidad, mejor cobertura, menor dpf. Microfibra: dpf < 1.0. Verificar desenrollando y contando bajo aumento, o calculado desde dpf en ficha técnica.", "Calcular dpf = denier ÷ filamentos y registrar siempre", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B09", "Denier por Filamento (dpf)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: denier ÷ fils", "Microfibra: <1.0 \n Fino: 1.0–2.0 \n Estándar: 2.0–4.0 \n Grueso: >4.0", "Derivado", "Derivado", "Derivado", "INHOUSE", "ID", "Predictor clave del tacto del tejido. 75\/144 dpf=0.52 (suavidad microfibra); 75\/36 dpf=2.1 (estándar). Ambos son 75 denier pero texturas completamente diferentes. Registrar siempre.", "Fórmula: dpf = denier_nominal \/ número_filamentos", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B10", "Cabo \/ Extremos", "ENTERO", "Visual \/ construcción", "1 (estándar — omitir) · \/2 · \/3 (retorcido) · ×2 · ×3 (paralelo)", "Según spec", "Según spec", "Según spec", "INHOUSE", "ID", "El cabo multiplica el denier efectivo: 75\/72 ×2 = 150d efectivo en tejido. Crítico para cálculos de peso de plegador y plan de urdimbre. \/2 = retorcidos juntos; ×2 = extremos paralelos.", "Verificar físicamente en paquete recibido", "TODOS" ], [ " C · Propiedades Mecánicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C13", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 3.5–4.5 \n DTY PET: 3.0–4.5 \n NFY PA6: 4.0–6.0 \n PA6.6: 5.0–7.5 \n PET AT: 6.0–9.0", "FDY>4.2 \/ DTY>3.8", "FDY>3.8 \/ DTY>3.5", "FDY>3.5 \/ DTY>3.0", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura ÷ densidad lineal (dtex). Ensayar en dinamómetro CRE a 250mm calibre, 200mm\/min, mínimo 20 lecturas\/lote. Alta tenacidad → menos roturas de urdimbre a >600 rpm.", "Laboratorio externo (CRE Instron\/Textechno). Informar media + CV%", "TODOS" ], [ "C14", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 20–40% \n DTY PET: 15–35% \n NFY PA6: 30–50% \n POY: 110–160% \n ELS cubierto: 300–500%", "CV<6%", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "LAB", "CC", "Debe equilibrarse con la tenacidad. Muy bajo (<15%) aumenta paros de telar. Muy alto (>40%) causa inestabilidad de tensión en el desenrollado. Informar media y CV% — la uniformidad es tan importante como el valor absoluto.", "Mismo ensayo CRE que tenacidad — informados simultáneamente", "TODOS" ], [ "C15", "Fuerza de Rotura (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "ej. DTY 75d: ≈2500–3500 cN \n Calculado: tenacidad × dtex", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura absoluta en centinewtons. Más útil que la tenacidad para comparaciones directas de tensión de telar al mismo denier. Informar media ± DS de 20 ensayos.", "Informado del mismo ensayo de tracción que la tenacidad", "TODOS" ], [ "C16", "Módulo Inicial (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "PET FDY: 60–90 \n PET DTY: 20–45 \n PA6 FDY: 25–50 \n ELS: 0.01–0.05", "Según spec", "Según spec", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "Rigidez a baja extensión — pendiente de la curva tensión-deformación al 1–2% de alargamiento. Alto módulo → corre más limpiamente por los mallas del telar. Bajo módulo → más estiramiento bajo tensión → densidad de trama variable.", "Derivado de la curva del ensayo de tracción", "TODOS" ], [ "C17", "Contracción del Rizo % (CC)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "1H SIM: 15–35% \n 2H HIM: 8–20% \n 2H SIM: 10–25% \n NIM: <8%", "±2% de spec", "±3%", "±5%", "LAB", "CC", "% de diferencia de longitud entre el hilo rizado y el extendido. Gobierna el volumen, el tacto y el factor de conversión hilo-tejido. CC alto = más hilo consumido por metro de tejido.", "Método de madeja ISO 5688 con pesas de carga definidas", "DTY NTY" ], [ "C18", "Estabilidad del Rizo % (CS)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Objetivo: >70% \n Alta calidad: >85% \n Alarma: <60%", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "LAB", "CC", "% de rizo retenido después de aplicar y liberar carga. CS baja → el rizo colapsa durante la tensión de tejido → el tejido pierde volumen al lavado. Crítico para tejidos de punto-elástico.", "Parte del mismo protocolo de ensayo de rizo ISO 5688", "DTY NTY" ], [ "C19", "Elasticidad del Rizo % (CE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Alta: >85% \n Estándar: 70–85% \n Baja: <70%", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "LAB", "CC", "% de recuperación elástica del rizo tras carga cíclica. CE deficiente en hilo de urdimbre causa extensión progresiva de longitud durante el tejido y variación en densidad de trama.", "Método de carga cíclica ISO 5688", "DTY NTY" ], [ " D · Propiedades Térmicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D22", "Contracción en Agua en Ebullición % (CAE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "POY: 35–55% \n FDY std: 5–9% \n FDY baja contracción: 1–4% \n DTY crudo(1H): 6–10% \n DTY fijado(2H): 2–5% \n PA6: 8–12% \n PA6.6: 5–9%", "CV lote<0.5%", "CV lote<1.0%", "CV lote<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "PARÁMETRO TÉRMICO MÁS CRÍTICO. La variación CAE de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto — diferencia de CAE entre conos causa barré en tejido teñido. Cualquier cono >1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Ensayo: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla.", "En planta: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote", "TODOS" ], [ "D23", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 160°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET FDY std: 3–7% \n PET baja contracción: 0.5–3% \n DTY fijado: 1–4% \n PA6: 4–8% \n PA6.6: 3–6%", "<3% (PET FDY)", "<5%", "<7%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Controla los límites de temperatura de la rama. Alta CCS → el tejido no puede tensionarse por encima de esa temperatura sin distorsión. Horno térmico (160°C \/ 30 min), medir % de pérdida de longitud.", "Horno térmico + madeja. Ensayar a 160°C y 180°C — especificar cuál aplica", "TODOS" ], [ "D24", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 180°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET std: 5–12% \n PET baja cont.: 2–6% \n PA6: 8–15% \n PA6.6: 5–10%", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La mayoría de ramas funcionan a 170–190°C para poliéster. La CCS a 180°C determina si la anchura del tejido es estable a la temperatura operativa de la rama. PA6 es mucho más sensible al calor que PET.", "Mismo ensayo que a 160°C — ejecutar ambas temperaturas en la misma madeja", "TODOS" ], [ "D25", "Tg \/ Punto de Fusión", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357 (DSC)", "PET Tg≈70–80°C \/ Tf≈255–265°C \n CD-PET Tf≈240°C \n PA6 Tf≈215°C \n PA6.6 Tf≈260°C \n ELS degrada >150°C", "Certificado DSC", "Certificado DSC", "Datos proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "Tg gobierna el inicio de absorción de colorante. Tintura PET a 130°C bajo presión supera la Tg (80°C). El punto de fusión establece el límite absoluto de temperatura para todo procesamiento.", "Ensayo DSC en laboratorio externo. Necesario para disputas de verificación de polímero", "TODOS" ], [ "D26", "Eficiencia de Termofijado (ETF %)", "NUMÉRICO", "DIN 53866 \/ método interno", "DTY fijado 2H: ETF >85% \n DTY 1H: ETF 60–80% \n Sin fijar: <60%", ">88%", ">80%", ">70%", "LAB", "CC", "% de rizo permanentemente fijado vs rizo residual activo. Alta ETF = hilo dimensionalmente estable en tintura húmeda-caliente. Baja ETF → hilo se contrae en baño de tinte causando barré y pérdida de anchura.", "Medición de rizo antes\/después de tratamiento en agua caliente per DIN 53866", "DTY NTY" ], [ "D27", "CV% CAE Lote a Lote", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 (cono a cono)", "Objetivo: CV<1.0% dentro del lote \n Alarma: CV>2.0% \n Crítico: cualquier cono >±1.5% de la media del lote", "CV<0.5%", "CV<1.0%", "CV<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La uniformidad de CAE entre conos del mismo lote es la dimensión de calidad más importante para prevención de barré en tintorería. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote. Rechazar si algún cono se desvía >1.5% de la media del lote.", "En planta: ensayar 10 conos por lote, calcular media y CV% de los valores de CAE", "TODOS" ], [ " E · Uniformidad y Regularidad", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "E28", "CVm% — Densidad Lineal (Uster)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET: 0.5–1.2% \n DTY PET: 0.6–1.5% \n NFY PA: 0.5–1.0% \n Alarma: >2.0%", "≤0.7% (percentil 5)", "≤1.0% (perc. 25)", "≤1.5% (perc. 50)", "LAB", "CC", "Parámetro Uster principal. Alta CVm% → barré en tejido (franjas claras\/oscuras). Los percentiles 5\/25\/50 de Uster Statistics son el referente objetivo de calidad. Solicitar en COA; verificar en 3 conos\/lote en lab externo.", "Uster Tester — laboratorio externo. Solicitar de proveedor en cada COA", "TODOS" ], [ "E29", "Lugares Finos por km (-50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <2\/km \n perc. 25: <8\/km \n perc. 50: <20\/km \n Alarma: >50\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares finos (umbral -50%) son puntos potenciales de rotura en urdimbre. Directamente causan paros de telar en esas ubicaciones. Medidos en Uster Tester simultáneamente con CVm%.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm% del mismo ensayo", "TODOS" ], [ "E30", "Lugares Gruesos por km (+50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <5\/km \n perc. 25: <20\/km \n perc. 50: <50\/km \n Alarma: >100\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares gruesos (+50%) aparecen como barras de trama o rayas de urdimbre en el tejido. Los lugares gruesos periódicos (misma longitud de onda) son mucho más dañinos que los aleatorios.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm%", "TODOS" ], [ "E31", "Neps por km", "ENTERO", "USTER Tester \/ ASTM D5867", "Objetivo: <5\/km \n Alarma: >20\/km \n Hilado filamento debería aproximarse a 0", "<5\/km", "<10\/km", "<20\/km", "LAB", "CC", "Los neps en hilado filamento indican filamentos rotos\/fusionados. Cada nep = defecto visible tipo nudo en la superficie del tejido. Raros en filamento de calidad pero graves cuando aparecen.", "Uster Tester — simultáneo con medición de CVm%", "DTY NTY" ], [ "E32", "Índice de Vellosidad H", "NUMÉRICO", "USTER Tester \/ ISO 13938", "FDY (H bajo): H<1.5 \n DTY std: H 1.5–3.0 \n Alarma: H>5.0", "H<1.5", "H<2.5", "H<4.0", "LAB", "CC", "Extremos de filamento que sobresalen por cm. Alta vellosidad → abrasión de mallas\/peine, acumulación de estática, roturas de urdimbre. También indica filamentos rotos. Medido con sensor óptico Uster.", "Uster Tester — solicitar valor H y H-CV del proveedor", "TODOS" ], [ "E33", "Espectrograma \/ Defectos Periódicos", "ANÁLISIS", "Espectrograma Uster Tester", "Limpio: sin chimeneas \n Chimenea a longitud X → defecto mecánico en rodillo de circunferencia X", "Espectro limpio", "Sin chimenea mayor", "Periodicidad menor", "LAB", "CC", "Análisis espectral de variación de masa — identifica defectos periódicos de rodillos\/husos\/engranajes dañados. Una chimenea = barré de tejido. Obligatorio para tejidos premium\/exportación.", "Solicitar del proveedor O ejecutar en laboratorio externo con Uster", "TODOS" ], [ "E34", "CV% Denier Cono a Cono", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Objetivo: CV<2.0% \n Alarma: CV>3.5%", "CV<1.5%", "CV<2.0%", "CV<3.0%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Variación del denier nominal entre conos del mismo lote. Alta variación cono a cono → tensión irregular de urdimbre. Conos más ligeros = menor tensión = extremos flojos; más pesados = roturas. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote.", "Ensayo de madeja en planta — mismo equipo que medición de denier", "TODOS" ], [ " F · Superficie y Acabado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "F35", "Aceite de Ensimaje % (OPU)", "NUMÉRICO", "Extracción Soxhlet (ASTM D2257) \/ RMN", "POY: 0.3–0.6% \n FDY: 0.8–1.2% \n DTY: 2.5–4.5% \n NFY: 0.6–1.0% \n NTY: 2.0–4.0%", "±0.2% de spec", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "LAB", "CC", "Demasiado bajo (<0.3%): estática, filamentos rotos. Demasiado alto (>5%): contaminación de telar, manchas de resistencia en tintorería. Extracción Soxhlet es el estándar de laboratorio. Solicitar en cada COA.", "Laboratorio externo: extracción Soxhlet. Solicitar del proveedor en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F36", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Metal (μ-YTM)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412 \/ Medidor de fricción Rothschild", "PET: μ 0.18–0.30 \n PA: μ 0.15–0.25 \n Alarma: μ>0.40 o μ<0.12", "±0.02 de spec", "±0.03", "±0.05", "LAB", "CC", "Fricción al pasar por pasador metálico a velocidad\/tensión definidas. Alta μ → variación de tensión, abrasión del peine, filamentos rotos. μ consistente entre conos es crítica para uniformidad de tensión de urdimbre.", "Medidor de fricción Rothschild — laboratorio externo o solicitar en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F37", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Hilo (μ-YTY)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412", "PET: μ 0.30–0.50 \n PA: μ 0.25–0.45", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.08", "LAB", "CC", "Importante para hilados interminglados o retorcidos donde los filamentos rozan entre sí. Alta YTY → cohesión (bueno para urdimbre interminglada sin encolado) pero demasiado alta → dificultad en formación de calada.", "Misma configuración de ensayo que YTM — laboratorio externo", "TODOS" ], [ "F38", "Carga Electrostática (V)", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 134 \/ IEC 61340-4-1", "Aceptable: <500V \n Zona problema: >1000V \n Crítico: >2000V", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "LAB", "CC", "La acumulación de estática durante el urdido causa atracción de filamentos, enmarañamiento y roturas de urdimbre. PA6 más propenso que PET. Crítico en operación en época seca. Controlado por antiestático en el ensimaje.", "Laboratorio externo o medición electrostática — ensayar especialmente hilados PA", "TODOS" ], [ "F39", "Factor de Cohesión (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "Ensayo de pasador de cohesión \/ DIN 66132", "Tejible: >10 cN \n Objetivo urdimbre: >15 cN \n Bajo: <8 cN", ">18 cN", ">12 cN", ">8 cN", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza para separar el hilo en un nodo de entrelazado. Alta cohesión permite tejer sin encolado. Medido por ensayo de tracción con pasador a velocidad definida. Estrechamente relacionado con conteo de nips.", "Tester de cohesión con pasador — correlaciona con conteo de nips pero mide fuerza real", "DTY FDY interminglado" ], [ "F40", "Filamentos Rotos (por 1000m)", "ENTERO", "Inspección visual con pizarrón negro", "Urdimbre: <5\/1000m \n Trama: <15\/1000m \n Crítico: >30\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los filamentos rotos causan enmarañamiento en mallas y defectos de tejido. Ensayo: pasar hilo bajo tensión sobre pizarrón de terciopelo negro, contar protuberancias visibles. Ensayar 1000m por cono de muestra.", "En planta: pizarrón de terciopelo negro + bastidor de tensión. Método visual rápido", "TODOS" ], [ "F41", "Uniformidad de Tinte ΔE (CIELAB)", "NUMÉRICO", "Tintura miniatura + ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244", "Mismo cono: ΔE≤1.0 \n Cono a cono: ΔE≤1.5 \n Lote a lote: ΔE≤2.0 \n Alarma: ΔE>3.0", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Tintura a escala de laboratorio de 3–5 conos del lote con la misma receta; medir ΔE entre conos con espectrofotómetro. Predice barré ANTES de la producción. Toma 3–4 horas pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "En planta: tintura de laboratorio + espectrofotómetro. Ensayo más predictivo de calidad de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ " G · Químico y Regulatorio", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "G42", "Regain de Humedad (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2495 \/ ISO 6741", "PET: 0.2–0.4% \n PA6: 1.2–1.8% \n PA6.6: 1.0–1.5% \n ELS: 0.8–1.3%", "±0.1% del estd.", "±0.2%", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "% de humedad a 65% HR \/ 20°C. Afecta el peso real del hilo — crítico para cálculos de peso del plegador y balance de masa en tintorería. PA absorbe más humedad que PET — acondicionar antes de ensayos gravimétricos.", "Acondicionar hilo per ISO 139 (20°C, 65% HR, 24h) antes de todos los ensayos mecánicos", "TODOS" ], [ "G43", "pH del Extracto Acuoso", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "Objetivo: 4.5–7.5 \n Sensible a la piel: 4.5–6.5 \n Alarma: <4.0 o >8.5", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "INHOUSE", "CC", "El residuo ácido\/alcalino del ensimaje afecta la absorción de tinte y el confort de la piel. Ensayo: 10g de hilo en 100ml de agua destilada, hervir 30 min, medidor de pH calibrado. Rápido en planta.", "En planta: medidor de pH calibrado. Ensayo rápido de alto valor — realizar en cada lote", "TODOS" ], [ "G45", "Certificación OEKO-TEX Estándar 100", "CERT", "Asociación OEKO-TEX (>100 parámetros)", "Clase I (bebé): más estricta · Clase II (contacto piel) · Clase III (sin contacto) · Clase IV (decoración)", "Clase I o II certificado", "Clase II certificado", "Clase III", "COA", "COMPRA", "Ensaya >100 parámetros químicos: pH, formaldehído, colorantes azo prohibidos, metales pesados extraíbles (Pb, Cd, Cr, Hg, As), pesticidas, APEO, colorantes alergénicos, blanqueadores ópticos. Clase II apropiada para tejidos de ropa.", "Número de certificado + fecha de validez en archivo por proveedor por familia de producto", "TODOS" ], [ "G46", "Declaración REACH SVHC", "CERT", "Reglamento UE REACH 1907\/2006 (lista SVHC)", "Declaración: sin SVHC por encima del umbral 0.1% \n O divulgación de sustancias específicas", "Lista SVHC completa <0.1%", "Declaración completa", "Parcial", "COA", "COMPRA", "Requerida para mercado UE y RSL de marcas. Sustancias específicas: HAPs, ftalatos, DMF, Cr(VI), formaldehído, NPE\/APEO, PFAS. Verificar por laboratorio químico acreditado.", "Declaración escrita del proveedor por lote. Verificación de lab para sustancias críticas", "TODOS" ], [ " H · Proceso y Paquete", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "H49", "Relación de Estiraje (RE)", "NUMÉRICO", "Parámetro de proceso (ficha técnica proveedor)", "DTY PET: 1.6–1.9× \n FDY PET: 1.8–2.2× \n PET AT: 3.0–4.5× \n PA6: 1.4–1.8×", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "PROVEEDOR", "CC", "Controla la orientación molecular: RE mayor → tenacidad más alta y módulo más alto, alargamiento más bajo. No ensayable en fábrica. Pedir RE en ficha técnica del proveedor.", "Solicitar en ficha técnica del proveedor — no en el COA estándar", "FDY DTY" ], [ "H50", "Relación Disco-Hilo (D\/Y) — Falsa Torsión", "NUMÉRICO", "Parámetro de proceso (spec texturizado)", "PET: 1.8–2.3 \n PA: 1.7–2.1", "Documentado", "N\/A", "N\/A", "PROVEEDOR", "CC", "Velocidad periférica disco de fricción ÷ velocidad del hilo en texturizado por falsa torsión. Controla intensidad del rizo. D\/Y mayor → más rizo. La clasificación SIM\/HIM se deriva de la combinación D\/Y + temperatura del calentador.", "Solicitar de la instalación de texturizado para comparación de especificación técnica", "DTY NTY" ], [ "H51", "Temperatura Calentador T1 (°C)", "NUMÉRICO", "Parámetro de proceso", "PET 1H: 180–220°C \n PET 2H T1: 170–210°C \n PA6: 155–185°C \n PA6.6: 185–210°C", "Documentado", "Documentado", "N\/A", "PROVEEDOR", "CC", "Temperatura del primer calentador durante el texturizado. Gobierna la intensidad del rizo y la estabilización térmica. Crítico para hacer coincidir lotes entre proveedores.", "Solicitar ficha de proceso de texturizado con temperaturas T1 y T2", "DTY NTY" ], [ "H52", "Temperatura Calentador T2 (°C)", "NUMÉRICO", "Parámetro de proceso", "PET 2H: 120–160°C (calentador de fijado) \n T2 mayor = menor CAE = tejido más estable en tintorería", "Documentado", "Documentado", "N\/A", "PROVEEDOR", "CC", "Segundo calentador en texturizado 2H — el calentador de 'fijado'. Reduce la torsión residual, baja la contracción, estabiliza el rizo. T2 mayor → menor CAE → tejido más estable en tintorería.", "Diferenciador clave entre el comportamiento en tintorería de DTY 1H y 2H", "DTY 2H únicamente" ], [ "H53", "Longitud de Hilo por Paquete (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier", "Pequeños: 5.000–15.000m \n Std: 15.000–30.000m \n Grandes: 30.000–80.000m", "±2% del declarado", "±3%", "±5%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Los paquetes cortos multiplican los cambios de fileta, los nudos de urdimbre y las marcas de urdimbre. Especificar peso neto mínimo por cono Y longitud mínima. Urdimbre: ≥20.000m recomendado. Trama: ≥10.000m.", "Calcular: Longitud = (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier nominal", "TODOS" ], [ "H54", "Peso Neto del Paquete (g)", "NUMÉRICO", "Pesaje en balanza", "Mini: 50–500g \n Std: 1.0–3.0 kg \n Grande: 3.0–6.0 kg", "±1% del declarado", "±2%", "±3%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Afecta el diseño de la fileta, el inventario y los cálculos de rendimiento. Pesar 10 conos\/lote: peso bruto menos tubo = peso neto. Un peso corto significativo indica manipulación del rendimiento del proveedor.", "En planta: balanza analítica. Verificar 100% de etiquetas de conos", "TODOS" ], [ "H55", "Tipo de Enrollado del Paquete", "ENUM", "Visual \/ especificación del proveedor", "SD-Wind (precisión escalonada) · Cruzado · Paralelo · Precisión", "SD-Wind especificado", "SD o precisión", "Según suministro", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "SD-Wind da la tensión de desbobinado más consistente a alta velocidad de urdido. El enrollado paralelo y cruzado aleatorio causan fluctuaciones de tensión. Especificar en OC para hilados de urdimbre.", "Especificar en OC — afecta directamente la productividad del urdido", "TODOS" ], [ "H56", "Defectos del Paquete (Visual)", "ENUM", "Inspección visual — 100%", "Aceptar: orejeta limpia, estructura firme, sin moho \n Rechazar: encintado · orejetas blandas · alma colapsada · moho · paquete mixto", "Cero defectos", "≤1 menor\/lote", "≤3 menores\/lote", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Inspección visual 100% de cada cono recibido: bandas de orejeta\/encintado (→ picos de tensión en urdido), moho (→ contaminación de tinte), orejetas blandas, paquete mixto (hilo incorrecto en cono etiquetado).", "En planta: 100% visual en recepción. Se requieren criterios de rechazo escritos", "TODOS" ], [ "H57", "Acondicionamiento Antes del Ensayo", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "ISO 139 \/ ASTM D1776", "Atmósfera estándar: 20±2°C · 65±2% HR · mínimo 24 horas", "Per ISO 139", "Per ISO 139", "Comparable", "INHOUSE", "CC", "TODOS los ensayos mecánicos y la mayoría de los físicos DEBEN realizarse en hilo acondicionado. La humedad afecta el peso (denier), el alargamiento y la tenacidad — especialmente el nailon (1.2–1.8% regain). Obligatorio.", "Almacenar hilo recibido 24h en sala de acondicionamiento antes de ensayar", "TODOS" ], [ " J · Comercial y Cumplimiento", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "J58", "Número de Lote \/ Partida", "TEXTO", "Seguimiento interno + COA", "Alfanumérico único por lote de producción", "Trazabilidad completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida trazable", "COA", "COMPRA", "Cada cono debe ser trazable a un lote de producción. Aparece en COA, etiqueta del cono y registro de recepción del MES. Sin trazabilidad de lote, los fallos de CC no pueden aislarse a plegadores específicos.", "Registrar en módulo de recepción MES — vincular lote a todos los plegadores y rollos de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ "J61", "Proveedor Aprobado (LPA)", "LISTA", "Lista de Proveedores Aprobados (LPA) interna", "Solo comprar de proveedores en LPA de Summitex", "Auditado y aprobado", "Aprobado", "Condicional", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Hilo solo de proveedores en la LPA. Cualificación: ensayo de muestra, revisión de COA, auditoría de fábrica, certificación OEKO-TEX. Proveedor es separado de la especificación de hilo — múltiples proveedores aprobados por código de hilo.", "Mantener base de datos LPA — separada del maestro de especificaciones de hilo", "TODOS" ], [ "J63", "Verificación Etiqueta vs Contenido (100%)", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "Inspección de recepción interna — 100%", "Verificación física: tipo de fibra, denier, número de filamentos, código proveedor, número de lote en cada cono", "100% verificado", "100% verificado", "Inspección aleatoria", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los conos mal etiquetados (fibra incorrecta, denier incorrecto) causan fallas catastróficas de urdimbre. La verificación 100% de etiquetas lleva 5 minutos por lote y previene los peores errores entrantes.", "100% verificación de etiquetas en recepción. Tolerancia cero para etiquetado incorrecto", "TODOS" ], [ "J64", "Longitud Mínima por Paquete en OC (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Estándar interno Summitex", "Urdimbre: ≥20.000m\/cono \n Trama: ≥10.000m\/cono \n Denier fino: ≥15.000m", ">25.000m", ">20.000m", ">10.000m", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Indicar en cada OC. Los proveedores enviarán conos cortos para reducir desperdicio si no se especifica. Los paquetes cortos multiplican nudos, cambios de fileta y marcas de urdimbre.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada OC — los proveedores minimizarán la longitud si no hay restricción", "TODOS" ], [ " ◆ FDY \/ PFY — FULLY DRAWN YARN \/ POLIÉSTER PLANO (RÍGIDO) | Polyester Flat Filament (Fully Drawn \/ Rigid)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ " A · Identidad y Clasificación", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A01", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "ENUM", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "DTY·FDY·NFY·NTY·PFY·POY·ACY·ATY·ALG", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "COA", "TODO", "Clasificación primaria: polímero + proceso de fabricación. Debe coincidir exactamente con la especificación pedida — un DTY y un FDY del mismo denier se comportan de forma completamente diferente en el telar.", "Identidad — verificar en recepción", "TODOS" ], [ "A03", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "ENUM", "Microscopía óptica (ISO 137)", "SD (semimate)·BR (brillante\/FD)·CAT (catiónico)·RIG (plano)·TRI (trilobal)·OC (octalobal)·HOL (hueco)", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "LAB", "ID", "Determina brillo, comportamiento en tintorería, gestión de humedad. TiO₂: SD≈0.3–0.5%, total mate≈2–3%, brillante<0.05%. CAT requiere baño de colorante básico.", "Verificado por microscopía de sección transversal", "TODOS" ], [ "A04", "Tipo de Tinturabilidad", "ENUM", "Prueba de tinte en miniatura de laboratorio", "STD (disperso) · CAT (catiónico) · ÁCIDO (nailon) · DISP-únicamente", "Prueba de lab", "Prueba de lab", "Declarado", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe coincidir con la receta de tintorería. CAT en baño disperso → barré grave. Confirmar por tintura miniatura de laboratorio antes de comprometer producción. Toma 2h pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "CRÍTICO: Verificar siempre designación CAT antes de urdir", "TODOS" ], [ " B · Densidad Lineal y Geometría", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B06", "Densidad Lineal — Nominal (Denier)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "20·50·75·100·150·167·200·300·600·900 denier \n Microfibra <1.0 dpf", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Ensayo por método de madeja: devanar madeja de 100m ×90 = 9000m equivalente; pesar en balanza analítica. Ensayo rápido en planta. La CV% de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto.", "Devanadora de madejas + balanza analítica. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B07", "Tolerancia de Denier (±%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "±1.5% (AA) → ±4.0% (C) del nominal", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe indicarse en cada OC. Asimetría de tolerancia común — los proveedores tienden a entregar ligeramente por encima del nominal. Tolerancia ajustada (±2%) para urdimbre; ±3% aceptable para trama.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada orden de compra", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B08", "Número de Filamentos", "ENTERO", "Conteo directo \/ cálculo dpf", "36·48·72·96·144·288·408 filamentos \n dpf = denier ÷ número de filamentos", "Exacto", "Exacto", "±1 filamento", "LAB", "ID", "Mayor número de filamentos → mayor suavidad, mejor cobertura, menor dpf. Microfibra: dpf < 1.0. Verificar desenrollando y contando bajo aumento, o calculado desde dpf en ficha técnica.", "Calcular dpf = denier ÷ filamentos y registrar siempre", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B09", "Denier por Filamento (dpf)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: denier ÷ fils", "Microfibra: <1.0 \n Fino: 1.0–2.0 \n Estándar: 2.0–4.0 \n Grueso: >4.0", "Derivado", "Derivado", "Derivado", "INHOUSE", "ID", "Predictor clave del tacto del tejido. 75\/144 dpf=0.52 (suavidad microfibra); 75\/36 dpf=2.1 (estándar). Ambos son 75 denier pero texturas completamente diferentes. Registrar siempre.", "Fórmula: dpf = denier_nominal \/ número_filamentos", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B10", "Cabo \/ Extremos", "ENTERO", "Visual \/ construcción", "1 (estándar — omitir) · \/2 · \/3 (retorcido) · ×2 · ×3 (paralelo)", "Según spec", "Según spec", "Según spec", "INHOUSE", "ID", "El cabo multiplica el denier efectivo: 75\/72 ×2 = 150d efectivo en tejido. Crítico para cálculos de peso de plegador y plan de urdimbre. \/2 = retorcidos juntos; ×2 = extremos paralelos.", "Verificar físicamente en paquete recibido", "TODOS" ], [ " C · Propiedades Mecánicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C13", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 3.5–4.5 \n DTY PET: 3.0–4.5 \n NFY PA6: 4.0–6.0 \n PA6.6: 5.0–7.5 \n PET AT: 6.0–9.0", "FDY>4.2 \/ DTY>3.8", "FDY>3.8 \/ DTY>3.5", "FDY>3.5 \/ DTY>3.0", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura ÷ densidad lineal (dtex). Ensayar en dinamómetro CRE a 250mm calibre, 200mm\/min, mínimo 20 lecturas\/lote. Alta tenacidad → menos roturas de urdimbre a >600 rpm.", "Laboratorio externo (CRE Instron\/Textechno). Informar media + CV%", "TODOS" ], [ "C14", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 20–40% \n DTY PET: 15–35% \n NFY PA6: 30–50% \n POY: 110–160% \n ELS cubierto: 300–500%", "CV<6%", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "LAB", "CC", "Debe equilibrarse con la tenacidad. Muy bajo (<15%) aumenta paros de telar. Muy alto (>40%) causa inestabilidad de tensión en el desenrollado. Informar media y CV% — la uniformidad es tan importante como el valor absoluto.", "Mismo ensayo CRE que tenacidad — informados simultáneamente", "TODOS" ], [ "C15", "Fuerza de Rotura (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "ej. DTY 75d: ≈2500–3500 cN \n Calculado: tenacidad × dtex", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura absoluta en centinewtons. Más útil que la tenacidad para comparaciones directas de tensión de telar al mismo denier. Informar media ± DS de 20 ensayos.", "Informado del mismo ensayo de tracción que la tenacidad", "TODOS" ], [ "C16", "Módulo Inicial (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "PET FDY: 60–90 \n PET DTY: 20–45 \n PA6 FDY: 25–50 \n ELS: 0.01–0.05", "Según spec", "Según spec", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "Rigidez a baja extensión — pendiente de la curva tensión-deformación al 1–2% de alargamiento. Alto módulo → corre más limpiamente por los mallas del telar. Bajo módulo → más estiramiento bajo tensión → densidad de trama variable.", "Derivado de la curva del ensayo de tracción", "TODOS" ], [ " D · Propiedades Térmicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D22", "Contracción en Agua en Ebullición % (CAE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "POY: 35–55% \n FDY std: 5–9% \n FDY baja contracción: 1–4% \n DTY crudo(1H): 6–10% \n DTY fijado(2H): 2–5% \n PA6: 8–12% \n PA6.6: 5–9%", "CV lote<0.5%", "CV lote<1.0%", "CV lote<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "PARÁMETRO TÉRMICO MÁS CRÍTICO. La variación CAE de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto — diferencia de CAE entre conos causa barré en tejido teñido. Cualquier cono >1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Ensayo: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla.", "En planta: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote", "TODOS" ], [ "D23", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 160°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET FDY std: 3–7% \n PET baja contracción: 0.5–3% \n DTY fijado: 1–4% \n PA6: 4–8% \n PA6.6: 3–6%", "<3% (PET FDY)", "<5%", "<7%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Controla los límites de temperatura de la rama. Alta CCS → el tejido no puede tensionarse por encima de esa temperatura sin distorsión. Horno térmico (160°C \/ 30 min), medir % de pérdida de longitud.", "Horno térmico + madeja. Ensayar a 160°C y 180°C — especificar cuál aplica", "TODOS" ], [ "D24", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 180°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET std: 5–12% \n PET baja cont.: 2–6% \n PA6: 8–15% \n PA6.6: 5–10%", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La mayoría de ramas funcionan a 170–190°C para poliéster. La CCS a 180°C determina si la anchura del tejido es estable a la temperatura operativa de la rama. PA6 es mucho más sensible al calor que PET.", "Mismo ensayo que a 160°C — ejecutar ambas temperaturas en la misma madeja", "TODOS" ], [ "D25", "Tg \/ Punto de Fusión", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357 (DSC)", "PET Tg≈70–80°C \/ Tf≈255–265°C \n CD-PET Tf≈240°C \n PA6 Tf≈215°C \n PA6.6 Tf≈260°C \n ELS degrada >150°C", "Certificado DSC", "Certificado DSC", "Datos proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "Tg gobierna el inicio de absorción de colorante. Tintura PET a 130°C bajo presión supera la Tg (80°C). El punto de fusión establece el límite absoluto de temperatura para todo procesamiento.", "Ensayo DSC en laboratorio externo. Necesario para disputas de verificación de polímero", "TODOS" ], [ "D27", "CV% CAE Lote a Lote", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 (cono a cono)", "Objetivo: CV<1.0% dentro del lote \n Alarma: CV>2.0% \n Crítico: cualquier cono >±1.5% de la media del lote", "CV<0.5%", "CV<1.0%", "CV<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La uniformidad de CAE entre conos del mismo lote es la dimensión de calidad más importante para prevención de barré en tintorería. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote. Rechazar si algún cono se desvía >1.5% de la media del lote.", "En planta: ensayar 10 conos por lote, calcular media y CV% de los valores de CAE", "TODOS" ], [ " E · Uniformidad y Regularidad", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "E28", "CVm% — Densidad Lineal (Uster)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET: 0.5–1.2% \n DTY PET: 0.6–1.5% \n NFY PA: 0.5–1.0% \n Alarma: >2.0%", "≤0.7% (percentil 5)", "≤1.0% (perc. 25)", "≤1.5% (perc. 50)", "LAB", "CC", "Parámetro Uster principal. Alta CVm% → barré en tejido (franjas claras\/oscuras). Los percentiles 5\/25\/50 de Uster Statistics son el referente objetivo de calidad. Solicitar en COA; verificar en 3 conos\/lote en lab externo.", "Uster Tester — laboratorio externo. Solicitar de proveedor en cada COA", "TODOS" ], [ "E29", "Lugares Finos por km (-50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <2\/km \n perc. 25: <8\/km \n perc. 50: <20\/km \n Alarma: >50\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares finos (umbral -50%) son puntos potenciales de rotura en urdimbre. Directamente causan paros de telar en esas ubicaciones. Medidos en Uster Tester simultáneamente con CVm%.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm% del mismo ensayo", "TODOS" ], [ "E30", "Lugares Gruesos por km (+50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <5\/km \n perc. 25: <20\/km \n perc. 50: <50\/km \n Alarma: >100\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares gruesos (+50%) aparecen como barras de trama o rayas de urdimbre en el tejido. Los lugares gruesos periódicos (misma longitud de onda) son mucho más dañinos que los aleatorios.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm%", "TODOS" ], [ "E32", "Índice de Vellosidad H", "NUMÉRICO", "USTER Tester \/ ISO 13938", "FDY (H bajo): H<1.5 \n DTY std: H 1.5–3.0 \n Alarma: H>5.0", "H<1.5", "H<2.5", "H<4.0", "LAB", "CC", "Extremos de filamento que sobresalen por cm. Alta vellosidad → abrasión de mallas\/peine, acumulación de estática, roturas de urdimbre. También indica filamentos rotos. Medido con sensor óptico Uster.", "Uster Tester — solicitar valor H y H-CV del proveedor", "TODOS" ], [ "E33", "Espectrograma \/ Defectos Periódicos", "ANÁLISIS", "Espectrograma Uster Tester", "Limpio: sin chimeneas \n Chimenea a longitud X → defecto mecánico en rodillo de circunferencia X", "Espectro limpio", "Sin chimenea mayor", "Periodicidad menor", "LAB", "CC", "Análisis espectral de variación de masa — identifica defectos periódicos de rodillos\/husos\/engranajes dañados. Una chimenea = barré de tejido. Obligatorio para tejidos premium\/exportación.", "Solicitar del proveedor O ejecutar en laboratorio externo con Uster", "TODOS" ], [ "E34", "CV% Denier Cono a Cono", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Objetivo: CV<2.0% \n Alarma: CV>3.5%", "CV<1.5%", "CV<2.0%", "CV<3.0%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Variación del denier nominal entre conos del mismo lote. Alta variación cono a cono → tensión irregular de urdimbre. Conos más ligeros = menor tensión = extremos flojos; más pesados = roturas. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote.", "Ensayo de madeja en planta — mismo equipo que medición de denier", "TODOS" ], [ " F · Superficie y Acabado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "F35", "Aceite de Ensimaje % (OPU)", "NUMÉRICO", "Extracción Soxhlet (ASTM D2257) \/ RMN", "POY: 0.3–0.6% \n FDY: 0.8–1.2% \n DTY: 2.5–4.5% \n NFY: 0.6–1.0% \n NTY: 2.0–4.0%", "±0.2% de spec", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "LAB", "CC", "Demasiado bajo (<0.3%): estática, filamentos rotos. Demasiado alto (>5%): contaminación de telar, manchas de resistencia en tintorería. Extracción Soxhlet es el estándar de laboratorio. Solicitar en cada COA.", "Laboratorio externo: extracción Soxhlet. Solicitar del proveedor en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F36", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Metal (μ-YTM)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412 \/ Medidor de fricción Rothschild", "PET: μ 0.18–0.30 \n PA: μ 0.15–0.25 \n Alarma: μ>0.40 o μ<0.12", "±0.02 de spec", "±0.03", "±0.05", "LAB", "CC", "Fricción al pasar por pasador metálico a velocidad\/tensión definidas. Alta μ → variación de tensión, abrasión del peine, filamentos rotos. μ consistente entre conos es crítica para uniformidad de tensión de urdimbre.", "Medidor de fricción Rothschild — laboratorio externo o solicitar en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F37", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Hilo (μ-YTY)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412", "PET: μ 0.30–0.50 \n PA: μ 0.25–0.45", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.08", "LAB", "CC", "Importante para hilados interminglados o retorcidos donde los filamentos rozan entre sí. Alta YTY → cohesión (bueno para urdimbre interminglada sin encolado) pero demasiado alta → dificultad en formación de calada.", "Misma configuración de ensayo que YTM — laboratorio externo", "TODOS" ], [ "F38", "Carga Electrostática (V)", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 134 \/ IEC 61340-4-1", "Aceptable: <500V \n Zona problema: >1000V \n Crítico: >2000V", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "LAB", "CC", "La acumulación de estática durante el urdido causa atracción de filamentos, enmarañamiento y roturas de urdimbre. PA6 más propenso que PET. Crítico en operación en época seca. Controlado por antiestático en el ensimaje.", "Laboratorio externo o medición electrostática — ensayar especialmente hilados PA", "TODOS" ], [ "F39", "Factor de Cohesión (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "Ensayo de pasador de cohesión \/ DIN 66132", "Tejible: >10 cN \n Objetivo urdimbre: >15 cN \n Bajo: <8 cN", ">18 cN", ">12 cN", ">8 cN", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza para separar el hilo en un nodo de entrelazado. Alta cohesión permite tejer sin encolado. Medido por ensayo de tracción con pasador a velocidad definida. Estrechamente relacionado con conteo de nips.", "Tester de cohesión con pasador — correlaciona con conteo de nips pero mide fuerza real", "DTY FDY interminglado" ], [ "F40", "Filamentos Rotos (por 1000m)", "ENTERO", "Inspección visual con pizarrón negro", "Urdimbre: <5\/1000m \n Trama: <15\/1000m \n Crítico: >30\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los filamentos rotos causan enmarañamiento en mallas y defectos de tejido. Ensayo: pasar hilo bajo tensión sobre pizarrón de terciopelo negro, contar protuberancias visibles. Ensayar 1000m por cono de muestra.", "En planta: pizarrón de terciopelo negro + bastidor de tensión. Método visual rápido", "TODOS" ], [ "F41", "Uniformidad de Tinte ΔE (CIELAB)", "NUMÉRICO", "Tintura miniatura + ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244", "Mismo cono: ΔE≤1.0 \n Cono a cono: ΔE≤1.5 \n Lote a lote: ΔE≤2.0 \n Alarma: ΔE>3.0", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Tintura a escala de laboratorio de 3–5 conos del lote con la misma receta; medir ΔE entre conos con espectrofotómetro. Predice barré ANTES de la producción. Toma 3–4 horas pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "En planta: tintura de laboratorio + espectrofotómetro. Ensayo más predictivo de calidad de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ " G · Químico y Regulatorio", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "G42", "Regain de Humedad (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2495 \/ ISO 6741", "PET: 0.2–0.4% \n PA6: 1.2–1.8% \n PA6.6: 1.0–1.5% \n ELS: 0.8–1.3%", "±0.1% del estd.", "±0.2%", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "% de humedad a 65% HR \/ 20°C. Afecta el peso real del hilo — crítico para cálculos de peso del plegador y balance de masa en tintorería. PA absorbe más humedad que PET — acondicionar antes de ensayos gravimétricos.", "Acondicionar hilo per ISO 139 (20°C, 65% HR, 24h) antes de todos los ensayos mecánicos", "TODOS" ], [ "G43", "pH del Extracto Acuoso", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "Objetivo: 4.5–7.5 \n Sensible a la piel: 4.5–6.5 \n Alarma: <4.0 o >8.5", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "INHOUSE", "CC", "El residuo ácido\/alcalino del ensimaje afecta la absorción de tinte y el confort de la piel. Ensayo: 10g de hilo en 100ml de agua destilada, hervir 30 min, medidor de pH calibrado. Rápido en planta.", "En planta: medidor de pH calibrado. Ensayo rápido de alto valor — realizar en cada lote", "TODOS" ], [ "G45", "Certificación OEKO-TEX Estándar 100", "CERT", "Asociación OEKO-TEX (>100 parámetros)", "Clase I (bebé): más estricta · Clase II (contacto piel) · Clase III (sin contacto) · Clase IV (decoración)", "Clase I o II certificado", "Clase II certificado", "Clase III", "COA", "COMPRA", "Ensaya >100 parámetros químicos: pH, formaldehído, colorantes azo prohibidos, metales pesados extraíbles (Pb, Cd, Cr, Hg, As), pesticidas, APEO, colorantes alergénicos, blanqueadores ópticos. Clase II apropiada para tejidos de ropa.", "Número de certificado + fecha de validez en archivo por proveedor por familia de producto", "TODOS" ], [ "G46", "Declaración REACH SVHC", "CERT", "Reglamento UE REACH 1907\/2006 (lista SVHC)", "Declaración: sin SVHC por encima del umbral 0.1% \n O divulgación de sustancias específicas", "Lista SVHC completa <0.1%", "Declaración completa", "Parcial", "COA", "COMPRA", "Requerida para mercado UE y RSL de marcas. Sustancias específicas: HAPs, ftalatos, DMF, Cr(VI), formaldehído, NPE\/APEO, PFAS. Verificar por laboratorio químico acreditado.", "Declaración escrita del proveedor por lote. Verificación de lab para sustancias críticas", "TODOS" ], [ " H · Proceso y Paquete", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "H49", "Relación de Estiraje (RE)", "NUMÉRICO", "Parámetro de proceso (ficha técnica proveedor)", "DTY PET: 1.6–1.9× \n FDY PET: 1.8–2.2× \n PET AT: 3.0–4.5× \n PA6: 1.4–1.8×", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "PROVEEDOR", "CC", "Controla la orientación molecular: RE mayor → tenacidad más alta y módulo más alto, alargamiento más bajo. No ensayable en fábrica. Pedir RE en ficha técnica del proveedor.", "Solicitar en ficha técnica del proveedor — no en el COA estándar", "FDY DTY" ], [ "H53", "Longitud de Hilo por Paquete (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier", "Pequeños: 5.000–15.000m \n Std: 15.000–30.000m \n Grandes: 30.000–80.000m", "±2% del declarado", "±3%", "±5%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Los paquetes cortos multiplican los cambios de fileta, los nudos de urdimbre y las marcas de urdimbre. Especificar peso neto mínimo por cono Y longitud mínima. Urdimbre: ≥20.000m recomendado. Trama: ≥10.000m.", "Calcular: Longitud = (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier nominal", "TODOS" ], [ "H54", "Peso Neto del Paquete (g)", "NUMÉRICO", "Pesaje en balanza", "Mini: 50–500g \n Std: 1.0–3.0 kg \n Grande: 3.0–6.0 kg", "±1% del declarado", "±2%", "±3%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Afecta el diseño de la fileta, el inventario y los cálculos de rendimiento. Pesar 10 conos\/lote: peso bruto menos tubo = peso neto. Un peso corto significativo indica manipulación del rendimiento del proveedor.", "En planta: balanza analítica. Verificar 100% de etiquetas de conos", "TODOS" ], [ "H55", "Tipo de Enrollado del Paquete", "ENUM", "Visual \/ especificación del proveedor", "SD-Wind (precisión escalonada) · Cruzado · Paralelo · Precisión", "SD-Wind especificado", "SD o precisión", "Según suministro", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "SD-Wind da la tensión de desbobinado más consistente a alta velocidad de urdido. El enrollado paralelo y cruzado aleatorio causan fluctuaciones de tensión. Especificar en OC para hilados de urdimbre.", "Especificar en OC — afecta directamente la productividad del urdido", "TODOS" ], [ "H56", "Defectos del Paquete (Visual)", "ENUM", "Inspección visual — 100%", "Aceptar: orejeta limpia, estructura firme, sin moho \n Rechazar: encintado · orejetas blandas · alma colapsada · moho · paquete mixto", "Cero defectos", "≤1 menor\/lote", "≤3 menores\/lote", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Inspección visual 100% de cada cono recibido: bandas de orejeta\/encintado (→ picos de tensión en urdido), moho (→ contaminación de tinte), orejetas blandas, paquete mixto (hilo incorrecto en cono etiquetado).", "En planta: 100% visual en recepción. Se requieren criterios de rechazo escritos", "TODOS" ], [ "H57", "Acondicionamiento Antes del Ensayo", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "ISO 139 \/ ASTM D1776", "Atmósfera estándar: 20±2°C · 65±2% HR · mínimo 24 horas", "Per ISO 139", "Per ISO 139", "Comparable", "INHOUSE", "CC", "TODOS los ensayos mecánicos y la mayoría de los físicos DEBEN realizarse en hilo acondicionado. La humedad afecta el peso (denier), el alargamiento y la tenacidad — especialmente el nailon (1.2–1.8% regain). Obligatorio.", "Almacenar hilo recibido 24h en sala de acondicionamiento antes de ensayar", "TODOS" ], [ " J · Comercial y Cumplimiento", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "J58", "Número de Lote \/ Partida", "TEXTO", "Seguimiento interno + COA", "Alfanumérico único por lote de producción", "Trazabilidad completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida trazable", "COA", "COMPRA", "Cada cono debe ser trazable a un lote de producción. Aparece en COA, etiqueta del cono y registro de recepción del MES. Sin trazabilidad de lote, los fallos de CC no pueden aislarse a plegadores específicos.", "Registrar en módulo de recepción MES — vincular lote a todos los plegadores y rollos de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ "J61", "Proveedor Aprobado (LPA)", "LISTA", "Lista de Proveedores Aprobados (LPA) interna", "Solo comprar de proveedores en LPA de Summitex", "Auditado y aprobado", "Aprobado", "Condicional", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Hilo solo de proveedores en la LPA. Cualificación: ensayo de muestra, revisión de COA, auditoría de fábrica, certificación OEKO-TEX. Proveedor es separado de la especificación de hilo — múltiples proveedores aprobados por código de hilo.", "Mantener base de datos LPA — separada del maestro de especificaciones de hilo", "TODOS" ], [ "J63", "Verificación Etiqueta vs Contenido (100%)", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "Inspección de recepción interna — 100%", "Verificación física: tipo de fibra, denier, número de filamentos, código proveedor, número de lote en cada cono", "100% verificado", "100% verificado", "Inspección aleatoria", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los conos mal etiquetados (fibra incorrecta, denier incorrecto) causan fallas catastróficas de urdimbre. La verificación 100% de etiquetas lleva 5 minutos por lote y previene los peores errores entrantes.", "100% verificación de etiquetas en recepción. Tolerancia cero para etiquetado incorrecto", "TODOS" ], [ "J64", "Longitud Mínima por Paquete en OC (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Estándar interno Summitex", "Urdimbre: ≥20.000m\/cono \n Trama: ≥10.000m\/cono \n Denier fino: ≥15.000m", ">25.000m", ">20.000m", ">10.000m", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Indicar en cada OC. Los proveedores enviarán conos cortos para reducir desperdicio si no se especifica. Los paquetes cortos multiplican nudos, cambios de fileta y marcas de urdimbre.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada OC — los proveedores minimizarán la longitud si no hay restricción", "TODOS" ], [ " ◆ NFY — NYLON FILAMENT YARN (NAILON PLANO PA6 \/ PA6.6) | Nylon Flat Filament Yarn (PA6 \/ PA6.6)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ " A · Identidad y Clasificación", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A01", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "ENUM", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "DTY·FDY·NFY·NTY·PFY·POY·ACY·ATY·ALG", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "COA", "TODO", "Clasificación primaria: polímero + proceso de fabricación. Debe coincidir exactamente con la especificación pedida — un DTY y un FDY del mismo denier se comportan de forma completamente diferente en el telar.", "Identidad — verificar en recepción", "TODOS" ], [ "A02", "Grado de Polímero (PA6 vs 6.6)", "ENUM", "ASTM D3418 (DSC) \/ FTIR", "PA6: Tf≈215–220°C \n PA6.6: Tf≈255–265°C \n PET: Tf≈255–260°C", "Verificado por DSC", "Verificado por DSC", "Declaración proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "PA6 vs PA6.6 difieren en punto de fusión, resistencia al calor y absorción de tinte. Crítico para acabados a alta temperatura. Distinguir por análisis DSC.", "Laboratorio externo — enviar para verificación de polímero", "NFY NTY" ], [ "A03", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "ENUM", "Microscopía óptica (ISO 137)", "SD (semimate)·BR (brillante\/FD)·CAT (catiónico)·RIG (plano)·TRI (trilobal)·OC (octalobal)·HOL (hueco)", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "LAB", "ID", "Determina brillo, comportamiento en tintorería, gestión de humedad. TiO₂: SD≈0.3–0.5%, total mate≈2–3%, brillante<0.05%. CAT requiere baño de colorante básico.", "Verificado por microscopía de sección transversal", "TODOS" ], [ "A04", "Tipo de Tinturabilidad", "ENUM", "Prueba de tinte en miniatura de laboratorio", "STD (disperso) · CAT (catiónico) · ÁCIDO (nailon) · DISP-únicamente", "Prueba de lab", "Prueba de lab", "Declarado", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe coincidir con la receta de tintorería. CAT en baño disperso → barré grave. Confirmar por tintura miniatura de laboratorio antes de comprometer producción. Toma 2h pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "CRÍTICO: Verificar siempre designación CAT antes de urdir", "TODOS" ], [ " B · Densidad Lineal y Geometría", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B06", "Densidad Lineal — Nominal (Denier)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "20·50·75·100·150·167·200·300·600·900 denier \n Microfibra <1.0 dpf", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Ensayo por método de madeja: devanar madeja de 100m ×90 = 9000m equivalente; pesar en balanza analítica. Ensayo rápido en planta. La CV% de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto.", "Devanadora de madejas + balanza analítica. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B07", "Tolerancia de Denier (±%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "±1.5% (AA) → ±4.0% (C) del nominal", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe indicarse en cada OC. Asimetría de tolerancia común — los proveedores tienden a entregar ligeramente por encima del nominal. Tolerancia ajustada (±2%) para urdimbre; ±3% aceptable para trama.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada orden de compra", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B08", "Número de Filamentos", "ENTERO", "Conteo directo \/ cálculo dpf", "36·48·72·96·144·288·408 filamentos \n dpf = denier ÷ número de filamentos", "Exacto", "Exacto", "±1 filamento", "LAB", "ID", "Mayor número de filamentos → mayor suavidad, mejor cobertura, menor dpf. Microfibra: dpf < 1.0. Verificar desenrollando y contando bajo aumento, o calculado desde dpf en ficha técnica.", "Calcular dpf = denier ÷ filamentos y registrar siempre", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B09", "Denier por Filamento (dpf)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: denier ÷ fils", "Microfibra: <1.0 \n Fino: 1.0–2.0 \n Estándar: 2.0–4.0 \n Grueso: >4.0", "Derivado", "Derivado", "Derivado", "INHOUSE", "ID", "Predictor clave del tacto del tejido. 75\/144 dpf=0.52 (suavidad microfibra); 75\/36 dpf=2.1 (estándar). Ambos son 75 denier pero texturas completamente diferentes. Registrar siempre.", "Fórmula: dpf = denier_nominal \/ número_filamentos", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B10", "Cabo \/ Extremos", "ENTERO", "Visual \/ construcción", "1 (estándar — omitir) · \/2 · \/3 (retorcido) · ×2 · ×3 (paralelo)", "Según spec", "Según spec", "Según spec", "INHOUSE", "ID", "El cabo multiplica el denier efectivo: 75\/72 ×2 = 150d efectivo en tejido. Crítico para cálculos de peso de plegador y plan de urdimbre. \/2 = retorcidos juntos; ×2 = extremos paralelos.", "Verificar físicamente en paquete recibido", "TODOS" ], [ " C · Propiedades Mecánicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C13", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 3.5–4.5 \n DTY PET: 3.0–4.5 \n NFY PA6: 4.0–6.0 \n PA6.6: 5.0–7.5 \n PET AT: 6.0–9.0", "FDY>4.2 \/ DTY>3.8", "FDY>3.8 \/ DTY>3.5", "FDY>3.5 \/ DTY>3.0", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura ÷ densidad lineal (dtex). Ensayar en dinamómetro CRE a 250mm calibre, 200mm\/min, mínimo 20 lecturas\/lote. Alta tenacidad → menos roturas de urdimbre a >600 rpm.", "Laboratorio externo (CRE Instron\/Textechno). Informar media + CV%", "TODOS" ], [ "C14", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 20–40% \n DTY PET: 15–35% \n NFY PA6: 30–50% \n POY: 110–160% \n ELS cubierto: 300–500%", "CV<6%", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "LAB", "CC", "Debe equilibrarse con la tenacidad. Muy bajo (<15%) aumenta paros de telar. Muy alto (>40%) causa inestabilidad de tensión en el desenrollado. Informar media y CV% — la uniformidad es tan importante como el valor absoluto.", "Mismo ensayo CRE que tenacidad — informados simultáneamente", "TODOS" ], [ "C15", "Fuerza de Rotura (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "ej. DTY 75d: ≈2500–3500 cN \n Calculado: tenacidad × dtex", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura absoluta en centinewtons. Más útil que la tenacidad para comparaciones directas de tensión de telar al mismo denier. Informar media ± DS de 20 ensayos.", "Informado del mismo ensayo de tracción que la tenacidad", "TODOS" ], [ "C16", "Módulo Inicial (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "PET FDY: 60–90 \n PET DTY: 20–45 \n PA6 FDY: 25–50 \n ELS: 0.01–0.05", "Según spec", "Según spec", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "Rigidez a baja extensión — pendiente de la curva tensión-deformación al 1–2% de alargamiento. Alto módulo → corre más limpiamente por los mallas del telar. Bajo módulo → más estiramiento bajo tensión → densidad de trama variable.", "Derivado de la curva del ensayo de tracción", "TODOS" ], [ "C21", "Intermingling \/ Entrelazado (nips\/m)", "ENTERO", "Ensayo de aguja \/ DIN 66132", "NIM: <30 \n SIM ligero: 30–60 \n SIM std: 60–100 \n HIM: 100–150 \n V.HIM: >150", "±10 nips\/m", "±15 nips\/m", "±25 nips\/m", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Determina la cohesión del hilo sin encolado. Por debajo de 40: urdimbre necesita encolado o alta torsión. Por encima de 80: tejible sin encolado. Ensayo de aguja: pasar aguja por el hilo, contar puntos de resistencia en 1m.", "Ensayo de aguja — rápido, bajo costo, en planta. Ensayar 1m × 5 repeticiones", "DTY FDY NTY NFY" ], [ " D · Propiedades Térmicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D22", "Contracción en Agua en Ebullición % (CAE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "POY: 35–55% \n FDY std: 5–9% \n FDY baja contracción: 1–4% \n DTY crudo(1H): 6–10% \n DTY fijado(2H): 2–5% \n PA6: 8–12% \n PA6.6: 5–9%", "CV lote<0.5%", "CV lote<1.0%", "CV lote<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "PARÁMETRO TÉRMICO MÁS CRÍTICO. La variación CAE de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto — diferencia de CAE entre conos causa barré en tejido teñido. Cualquier cono >1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Ensayo: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla.", "En planta: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote", "TODOS" ], [ "D23", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 160°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET FDY std: 3–7% \n PET baja contracción: 0.5–3% \n DTY fijado: 1–4% \n PA6: 4–8% \n PA6.6: 3–6%", "<3% (PET FDY)", "<5%", "<7%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Controla los límites de temperatura de la rama. Alta CCS → el tejido no puede tensionarse por encima de esa temperatura sin distorsión. Horno térmico (160°C \/ 30 min), medir % de pérdida de longitud.", "Horno térmico + madeja. Ensayar a 160°C y 180°C — especificar cuál aplica", "TODOS" ], [ "D24", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 180°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET std: 5–12% \n PET baja cont.: 2–6% \n PA6: 8–15% \n PA6.6: 5–10%", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La mayoría de ramas funcionan a 170–190°C para poliéster. La CCS a 180°C determina si la anchura del tejido es estable a la temperatura operativa de la rama. PA6 es mucho más sensible al calor que PET.", "Mismo ensayo que a 160°C — ejecutar ambas temperaturas en la misma madeja", "TODOS" ], [ "D25", "Tg \/ Punto de Fusión", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357 (DSC)", "PET Tg≈70–80°C \/ Tf≈255–265°C \n CD-PET Tf≈240°C \n PA6 Tf≈215°C \n PA6.6 Tf≈260°C \n ELS degrada >150°C", "Certificado DSC", "Certificado DSC", "Datos proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "Tg gobierna el inicio de absorción de colorante. Tintura PET a 130°C bajo presión supera la Tg (80°C). El punto de fusión establece el límite absoluto de temperatura para todo procesamiento.", "Ensayo DSC en laboratorio externo. Necesario para disputas de verificación de polímero", "TODOS" ], [ "D27", "CV% CAE Lote a Lote", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 (cono a cono)", "Objetivo: CV<1.0% dentro del lote \n Alarma: CV>2.0% \n Crítico: cualquier cono >±1.5% de la media del lote", "CV<0.5%", "CV<1.0%", "CV<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La uniformidad de CAE entre conos del mismo lote es la dimensión de calidad más importante para prevención de barré en tintorería. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote. Rechazar si algún cono se desvía >1.5% de la media del lote.", "En planta: ensayar 10 conos por lote, calcular media y CV% de los valores de CAE", "TODOS" ], [ " E · Uniformidad y Regularidad", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "E28", "CVm% — Densidad Lineal (Uster)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET: 0.5–1.2% \n DTY PET: 0.6–1.5% \n NFY PA: 0.5–1.0% \n Alarma: >2.0%", "≤0.7% (percentil 5)", "≤1.0% (perc. 25)", "≤1.5% (perc. 50)", "LAB", "CC", "Parámetro Uster principal. Alta CVm% → barré en tejido (franjas claras\/oscuras). Los percentiles 5\/25\/50 de Uster Statistics son el referente objetivo de calidad. Solicitar en COA; verificar en 3 conos\/lote en lab externo.", "Uster Tester — laboratorio externo. Solicitar de proveedor en cada COA", "TODOS" ], [ "E29", "Lugares Finos por km (-50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <2\/km \n perc. 25: <8\/km \n perc. 50: <20\/km \n Alarma: >50\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares finos (umbral -50%) son puntos potenciales de rotura en urdimbre. Directamente causan paros de telar en esas ubicaciones. Medidos en Uster Tester simultáneamente con CVm%.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm% del mismo ensayo", "TODOS" ], [ "E30", "Lugares Gruesos por km (+50%)", "ENTERO", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester", "FDY PET perc. 5: <5\/km \n perc. 25: <20\/km \n perc. 50: <50\/km \n Alarma: >100\/km", "≤perc. 5", "≤perc. 25", "≤perc. 50", "LAB", "CC", "Los lugares gruesos (+50%) aparecen como barras de trama o rayas de urdimbre en el tejido. Los lugares gruesos periódicos (misma longitud de onda) son mucho más dañinos que los aleatorios.", "Uster Tester — informado junto con CVm%", "TODOS" ], [ "E32", "Índice de Vellosidad H", "NUMÉRICO", "USTER Tester \/ ISO 13938", "FDY (H bajo): H<1.5 \n DTY std: H 1.5–3.0 \n Alarma: H>5.0", "H<1.5", "H<2.5", "H<4.0", "LAB", "CC", "Extremos de filamento que sobresalen por cm. Alta vellosidad → abrasión de mallas\/peine, acumulación de estática, roturas de urdimbre. También indica filamentos rotos. Medido con sensor óptico Uster.", "Uster Tester — solicitar valor H y H-CV del proveedor", "TODOS" ], [ "E33", "Espectrograma \/ Defectos Periódicos", "ANÁLISIS", "Espectrograma Uster Tester", "Limpio: sin chimeneas \n Chimenea a longitud X → defecto mecánico en rodillo de circunferencia X", "Espectro limpio", "Sin chimenea mayor", "Periodicidad menor", "LAB", "CC", "Análisis espectral de variación de masa — identifica defectos periódicos de rodillos\/husos\/engranajes dañados. Una chimenea = barré de tejido. Obligatorio para tejidos premium\/exportación.", "Solicitar del proveedor O ejecutar en laboratorio externo con Uster", "TODOS" ], [ "E34", "CV% Denier Cono a Cono", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Objetivo: CV<2.0% \n Alarma: CV>3.5%", "CV<1.5%", "CV<2.0%", "CV<3.0%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Variación del denier nominal entre conos del mismo lote. Alta variación cono a cono → tensión irregular de urdimbre. Conos más ligeros = menor tensión = extremos flojos; más pesados = roturas. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote.", "Ensayo de madeja en planta — mismo equipo que medición de denier", "TODOS" ], [ " F · Superficie y Acabado", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "F35", "Aceite de Ensimaje % (OPU)", "NUMÉRICO", "Extracción Soxhlet (ASTM D2257) \/ RMN", "POY: 0.3–0.6% \n FDY: 0.8–1.2% \n DTY: 2.5–4.5% \n NFY: 0.6–1.0% \n NTY: 2.0–4.0%", "±0.2% de spec", "±0.3%", "±0.5%", "LAB", "CC", "Demasiado bajo (<0.3%): estática, filamentos rotos. Demasiado alto (>5%): contaminación de telar, manchas de resistencia en tintorería. Extracción Soxhlet es el estándar de laboratorio. Solicitar en cada COA.", "Laboratorio externo: extracción Soxhlet. Solicitar del proveedor en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F36", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Metal (μ-YTM)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412 \/ Medidor de fricción Rothschild", "PET: μ 0.18–0.30 \n PA: μ 0.15–0.25 \n Alarma: μ>0.40 o μ<0.12", "±0.02 de spec", "±0.03", "±0.05", "LAB", "CC", "Fricción al pasar por pasador metálico a velocidad\/tensión definidas. Alta μ → variación de tensión, abrasión del peine, filamentos rotos. μ consistente entre conos es crítica para uniformidad de tensión de urdimbre.", "Medidor de fricción Rothschild — laboratorio externo o solicitar en COA", "TODOS" ], [ "F37", "Coeficiente de Fricción Hilo-Hilo (μ-YTY)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3412", "PET: μ 0.30–0.50 \n PA: μ 0.25–0.45", "±0.03", "±0.05", "±0.08", "LAB", "CC", "Importante para hilados interminglados o retorcidos donde los filamentos rozan entre sí. Alta YTY → cohesión (bueno para urdimbre interminglada sin encolado) pero demasiado alta → dificultad en formación de calada.", "Misma configuración de ensayo que YTM — laboratorio externo", "TODOS" ], [ "F38", "Carga Electrostática (V)", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 134 \/ IEC 61340-4-1", "Aceptable: <500V \n Zona problema: >1000V \n Crítico: >2000V", "<500V", "<1000V", "<2000V", "LAB", "CC", "La acumulación de estática durante el urdido causa atracción de filamentos, enmarañamiento y roturas de urdimbre. PA6 más propenso que PET. Crítico en operación en época seca. Controlado por antiestático en el ensimaje.", "Laboratorio externo o medición electrostática — ensayar especialmente hilados PA", "TODOS" ], [ "F40", "Filamentos Rotos (por 1000m)", "ENTERO", "Inspección visual con pizarrón negro", "Urdimbre: <5\/1000m \n Trama: <15\/1000m \n Crítico: >30\/1000m", "<5\/1000m", "<10\/1000m", "<20\/1000m", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los filamentos rotos causan enmarañamiento en mallas y defectos de tejido. Ensayo: pasar hilo bajo tensión sobre pizarrón de terciopelo negro, contar protuberancias visibles. Ensayar 1000m por cono de muestra.", "En planta: pizarrón de terciopelo negro + bastidor de tensión. Método visual rápido", "TODOS" ], [ "F41", "Uniformidad de Tinte ΔE (CIELAB)", "NUMÉRICO", "Tintura miniatura + ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244", "Mismo cono: ΔE≤1.0 \n Cono a cono: ΔE≤1.5 \n Lote a lote: ΔE≤2.0 \n Alarma: ΔE>3.0", "ΔE≤1.0", "ΔE≤1.5", "ΔE≤2.5", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Tintura a escala de laboratorio de 3–5 conos del lote con la misma receta; medir ΔE entre conos con espectrofotómetro. Predice barré ANTES de la producción. Toma 3–4 horas pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "En planta: tintura de laboratorio + espectrofotómetro. Ensayo más predictivo de calidad de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ " G · Químico y Regulatorio", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "G42", "Regain de Humedad (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2495 \/ ISO 6741", "PET: 0.2–0.4% \n PA6: 1.2–1.8% \n PA6.6: 1.0–1.5% \n ELS: 0.8–1.3%", "±0.1% del estd.", "±0.2%", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "% de humedad a 65% HR \/ 20°C. Afecta el peso real del hilo — crítico para cálculos de peso del plegador y balance de masa en tintorería. PA absorbe más humedad que PET — acondicionar antes de ensayos gravimétricos.", "Acondicionar hilo per ISO 139 (20°C, 65% HR, 24h) antes de todos los ensayos mecánicos", "TODOS" ], [ "G43", "pH del Extracto Acuoso", "NUMÉRICO", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "Objetivo: 4.5–7.5 \n Sensible a la piel: 4.5–6.5 \n Alarma: <4.0 o >8.5", "4.5–6.5", "4.5–7.5", "4.0–8.0", "INHOUSE", "CC", "El residuo ácido\/alcalino del ensimaje afecta la absorción de tinte y el confort de la piel. Ensayo: 10g de hilo en 100ml de agua destilada, hervir 30 min, medidor de pH calibrado. Rápido en planta.", "En planta: medidor de pH calibrado. Ensayo rápido de alto valor — realizar en cada lote", "TODOS" ], [ "G45", "Certificación OEKO-TEX Estándar 100", "CERT", "Asociación OEKO-TEX (>100 parámetros)", "Clase I (bebé): más estricta · Clase II (contacto piel) · Clase III (sin contacto) · Clase IV (decoración)", "Clase I o II certificado", "Clase II certificado", "Clase III", "COA", "COMPRA", "Ensaya >100 parámetros químicos: pH, formaldehído, colorantes azo prohibidos, metales pesados extraíbles (Pb, Cd, Cr, Hg, As), pesticidas, APEO, colorantes alergénicos, blanqueadores ópticos. Clase II apropiada para tejidos de ropa.", "Número de certificado + fecha de validez en archivo por proveedor por familia de producto", "TODOS" ], [ "G46", "Declaración REACH SVHC", "CERT", "Reglamento UE REACH 1907\/2006 (lista SVHC)", "Declaración: sin SVHC por encima del umbral 0.1% \n O divulgación de sustancias específicas", "Lista SVHC completa <0.1%", "Declaración completa", "Parcial", "COA", "COMPRA", "Requerida para mercado UE y RSL de marcas. Sustancias específicas: HAPs, ftalatos, DMF, Cr(VI), formaldehído, NPE\/APEO, PFAS. Verificar por laboratorio químico acreditado.", "Declaración escrita del proveedor por lote. Verificación de lab para sustancias críticas", "TODOS" ], [ " H · Proceso y Paquete", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "H53", "Longitud de Hilo por Paquete (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier", "Pequeños: 5.000–15.000m \n Std: 15.000–30.000m \n Grandes: 30.000–80.000m", "±2% del declarado", "±3%", "±5%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Los paquetes cortos multiplican los cambios de fileta, los nudos de urdimbre y las marcas de urdimbre. Especificar peso neto mínimo por cono Y longitud mínima. Urdimbre: ≥20.000m recomendado. Trama: ≥10.000m.", "Calcular: Longitud = (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier nominal", "TODOS" ], [ "H54", "Peso Neto del Paquete (g)", "NUMÉRICO", "Pesaje en balanza", "Mini: 50–500g \n Std: 1.0–3.0 kg \n Grande: 3.0–6.0 kg", "±1% del declarado", "±2%", "±3%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Afecta el diseño de la fileta, el inventario y los cálculos de rendimiento. Pesar 10 conos\/lote: peso bruto menos tubo = peso neto. Un peso corto significativo indica manipulación del rendimiento del proveedor.", "En planta: balanza analítica. Verificar 100% de etiquetas de conos", "TODOS" ], [ "H55", "Tipo de Enrollado del Paquete", "ENUM", "Visual \/ especificación del proveedor", "SD-Wind (precisión escalonada) · Cruzado · Paralelo · Precisión", "SD-Wind especificado", "SD o precisión", "Según suministro", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "SD-Wind da la tensión de desbobinado más consistente a alta velocidad de urdido. El enrollado paralelo y cruzado aleatorio causan fluctuaciones de tensión. Especificar en OC para hilados de urdimbre.", "Especificar en OC — afecta directamente la productividad del urdido", "TODOS" ], [ "H56", "Defectos del Paquete (Visual)", "ENUM", "Inspección visual — 100%", "Aceptar: orejeta limpia, estructura firme, sin moho \n Rechazar: encintado · orejetas blandas · alma colapsada · moho · paquete mixto", "Cero defectos", "≤1 menor\/lote", "≤3 menores\/lote", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Inspección visual 100% de cada cono recibido: bandas de orejeta\/encintado (→ picos de tensión en urdido), moho (→ contaminación de tinte), orejetas blandas, paquete mixto (hilo incorrecto en cono etiquetado).", "En planta: 100% visual en recepción. Se requieren criterios de rechazo escritos", "TODOS" ], [ "H57", "Acondicionamiento Antes del Ensayo", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "ISO 139 \/ ASTM D1776", "Atmósfera estándar: 20±2°C · 65±2% HR · mínimo 24 horas", "Per ISO 139", "Per ISO 139", "Comparable", "INHOUSE", "CC", "TODOS los ensayos mecánicos y la mayoría de los físicos DEBEN realizarse en hilo acondicionado. La humedad afecta el peso (denier), el alargamiento y la tenacidad — especialmente el nailon (1.2–1.8% regain). Obligatorio.", "Almacenar hilo recibido 24h en sala de acondicionamiento antes de ensayar", "TODOS" ], [ " J · Comercial y Cumplimiento", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "J58", "Número de Lote \/ Partida", "TEXTO", "Seguimiento interno + COA", "Alfanumérico único por lote de producción", "Trazabilidad completa", "Lote trazable", "Partida trazable", "COA", "COMPRA", "Cada cono debe ser trazable a un lote de producción. Aparece en COA, etiqueta del cono y registro de recepción del MES. Sin trazabilidad de lote, los fallos de CC no pueden aislarse a plegadores específicos.", "Registrar en módulo de recepción MES — vincular lote a todos los plegadores y rollos de tejido", "TODOS" ], [ "J61", "Proveedor Aprobado (LPA)", "LISTA", "Lista de Proveedores Aprobados (LPA) interna", "Solo comprar de proveedores en LPA de Summitex", "Auditado y aprobado", "Aprobado", "Condicional", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Hilo solo de proveedores en la LPA. Cualificación: ensayo de muestra, revisión de COA, auditoría de fábrica, certificación OEKO-TEX. Proveedor es separado de la especificación de hilo — múltiples proveedores aprobados por código de hilo.", "Mantener base de datos LPA — separada del maestro de especificaciones de hilo", "TODOS" ], [ "J63", "Verificación Etiqueta vs Contenido (100%)", "PROCEDIMIENTO", "Inspección de recepción interna — 100%", "Verificación física: tipo de fibra, denier, número de filamentos, código proveedor, número de lote en cada cono", "100% verificado", "100% verificado", "Inspección aleatoria", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Los conos mal etiquetados (fibra incorrecta, denier incorrecto) causan fallas catastróficas de urdimbre. La verificación 100% de etiquetas lleva 5 minutos por lote y previene los peores errores entrantes.", "100% verificación de etiquetas en recepción. Tolerancia cero para etiquetado incorrecto", "TODOS" ], [ "J64", "Longitud Mínima por Paquete en OC (m)", "NUMÉRICO", "Estándar interno Summitex", "Urdimbre: ≥20.000m\/cono \n Trama: ≥10.000m\/cono \n Denier fino: ≥15.000m", ">25.000m", ">20.000m", ">10.000m", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Indicar en cada OC. Los proveedores enviarán conos cortos para reducir desperdicio si no se especifica. Los paquetes cortos multiplican nudos, cambios de fileta y marcas de urdimbre.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada OC — los proveedores minimizarán la longitud si no hay restricción", "TODOS" ], [ " ◆ NTY — NYLON TEXTURED YARN (NAILON TEXTURADO PA6 \/ PA6.6) | Nylon Textured Yarn (PA6 \/ PA6.6)", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ " A · Identidad y Clasificación", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A01", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso", "ENUM", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "DTY·FDY·NFY·NTY·PFY·POY·ACY·ATY·ALG", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "COA", "TODO", "Clasificación primaria: polímero + proceso de fabricación. Debe coincidir exactamente con la especificación pedida — un DTY y un FDY del mismo denier se comportan de forma completamente diferente en el telar.", "Identidad — verificar en recepción", "TODOS" ], [ "A02", "Grado de Polímero (PA6 vs 6.6)", "ENUM", "ASTM D3418 (DSC) \/ FTIR", "PA6: Tf≈215–220°C \n PA6.6: Tf≈255–265°C \n PET: Tf≈255–260°C", "Verificado por DSC", "Verificado por DSC", "Declaración proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "PA6 vs PA6.6 difieren en punto de fusión, resistencia al calor y absorción de tinte. Crítico para acabados a alta temperatura. Distinguir por análisis DSC.", "Laboratorio externo — enviar para verificación de polímero", "NFY NTY" ], [ "A03", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "ENUM", "Microscopía óptica (ISO 137)", "SD (semimate)·BR (brillante\/FD)·CAT (catiónico)·RIG (plano)·TRI (trilobal)·OC (octalobal)·HOL (hueco)", "Documentado", "Documentado", "Declarado", "LAB", "ID", "Determina brillo, comportamiento en tintorería, gestión de humedad. TiO₂: SD≈0.3–0.5%, total mate≈2–3%, brillante<0.05%. CAT requiere baño de colorante básico.", "Verificado por microscopía de sección transversal", "TODOS" ], [ "A04", "Tipo de Tinturabilidad", "ENUM", "Prueba de tinte en miniatura de laboratorio", "STD (disperso) · CAT (catiónico) · ÁCIDO (nailon) · DISP-únicamente", "Prueba de lab", "Prueba de lab", "Declarado", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe coincidir con la receta de tintorería. CAT en baño disperso → barré grave. Confirmar por tintura miniatura de laboratorio antes de comprometer producción. Toma 2h pero evita lotes catastróficos.", "CRÍTICO: Verificar siempre designación CAT antes de urdir", "TODOS" ], [ " B · Densidad Lineal y Geometría", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B06", "Densidad Lineal — Nominal (Denier)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "20·50·75·100·150·167·200·300·600·900 denier \n Microfibra <1.0 dpf", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Ensayo por método de madeja: devanar madeja de 100m ×90 = 9000m equivalente; pesar en balanza analítica. Ensayo rápido en planta. La CV% de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto.", "Devanadora de madejas + balanza analítica. Ensayar ≥10 conos\/lote", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B07", "Tolerancia de Denier (±%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "±1.5% (AA) → ±4.0% (C) del nominal", "±1.5%", "±2.0%", "±3.0%", "INHOUSE", "COMPRA", "Debe indicarse en cada OC. Asimetría de tolerancia común — los proveedores tienden a entregar ligeramente por encima del nominal. Tolerancia ajustada (±2%) para urdimbre; ±3% aceptable para trama.", "Indicar explícitamente en cada orden de compra", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B08", "Número de Filamentos", "ENTERO", "Conteo directo \/ cálculo dpf", "36·48·72·96·144·288·408 filamentos \n dpf = denier ÷ número de filamentos", "Exacto", "Exacto", "±1 filamento", "LAB", "ID", "Mayor número de filamentos → mayor suavidad, mejor cobertura, menor dpf. Microfibra: dpf < 1.0. Verificar desenrollando y contando bajo aumento, o calculado desde dpf en ficha técnica.", "Calcular dpf = denier ÷ filamentos y registrar siempre", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B09", "Denier por Filamento (dpf)", "NUMÉRICO", "Calculado: denier ÷ fils", "Microfibra: <1.0 \n Fino: 1.0–2.0 \n Estándar: 2.0–4.0 \n Grueso: >4.0", "Derivado", "Derivado", "Derivado", "INHOUSE", "ID", "Predictor clave del tacto del tejido. 75\/144 dpf=0.52 (suavidad microfibra); 75\/36 dpf=2.1 (estándar). Ambos son 75 denier pero texturas completamente diferentes. Registrar siempre.", "Fórmula: dpf = denier_nominal \/ número_filamentos", "TODOS filamentos" ], [ "B10", "Cabo \/ Extremos", "ENTERO", "Visual \/ construcción", "1 (estándar — omitir) · \/2 · \/3 (retorcido) · ×2 · ×3 (paralelo)", "Según spec", "Según spec", "Según spec", "INHOUSE", "ID", "El cabo multiplica el denier efectivo: 75\/72 ×2 = 150d efectivo en tejido. Crítico para cálculos de peso de plegador y plan de urdimbre. \/2 = retorcidos juntos; ×2 = extremos paralelos.", "Verificar físicamente en paquete recibido", "TODOS" ], [ " C · Propiedades Mecánicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C13", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 3.5–4.5 \n DTY PET: 3.0–4.5 \n NFY PA6: 4.0–6.0 \n PA6.6: 5.0–7.5 \n PET AT: 6.0–9.0", "FDY>4.2 \/ DTY>3.8", "FDY>3.8 \/ DTY>3.5", "FDY>3.5 \/ DTY>3.0", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura ÷ densidad lineal (dtex). Ensayar en dinamómetro CRE a 250mm calibre, 200mm\/min, mínimo 20 lecturas\/lote. Alta tenacidad → menos roturas de urdimbre a >600 rpm.", "Laboratorio externo (CRE Instron\/Textechno). Informar media + CV%", "TODOS" ], [ "C14", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "FDY PET: 20–40% \n DTY PET: 15–35% \n NFY PA6: 30–50% \n POY: 110–160% \n ELS cubierto: 300–500%", "CV<6%", "CV<8%", "CV<12%", "LAB", "CC", "Debe equilibrarse con la tenacidad. Muy bajo (<15%) aumenta paros de telar. Muy alto (>40%) causa inestabilidad de tensión en el desenrollado. Informar media y CV% — la uniformidad es tan importante como el valor absoluto.", "Mismo ensayo CRE que tenacidad — informados simultáneamente", "TODOS" ], [ "C15", "Fuerza de Rotura (cN)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "ej. DTY 75d: ≈2500–3500 cN \n Calculado: tenacidad × dtex", "CV<5%", "CV<7%", "CV<10%", "LAB", "CC", "Fuerza de rotura absoluta en centinewtons. Más útil que la tenacidad para comparaciones directas de tensión de telar al mismo denier. Informar media ± DS de 20 ensayos.", "Informado del mismo ensayo de tracción que la tenacidad", "TODOS" ], [ "C16", "Módulo Inicial (cN\/dtex)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "PET FDY: 60–90 \n PET DTY: 20–45 \n PA6 FDY: 25–50 \n ELS: 0.01–0.05", "Según spec", "Según spec", "N\/A", "LAB", "CC", "Rigidez a baja extensión — pendiente de la curva tensión-deformación al 1–2% de alargamiento. Alto módulo → corre más limpiamente por los mallas del telar. Bajo módulo → más estiramiento bajo tensión → densidad de trama variable.", "Derivado de la curva del ensayo de tracción", "TODOS" ], [ "C17", "Contracción del Rizo % (CC)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "1H SIM: 15–35% \n 2H HIM: 8–20% \n 2H SIM: 10–25% \n NIM: <8%", "±2% de spec", "±3%", "±5%", "LAB", "CC", "% de diferencia de longitud entre el hilo rizado y el extendido. Gobierna el volumen, el tacto y el factor de conversión hilo-tejido. CC alto = más hilo consumido por metro de tejido.", "Método de madeja ISO 5688 con pesas de carga definidas", "DTY NTY" ], [ "C18", "Estabilidad del Rizo % (CS)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Objetivo: >70% \n Alta calidad: >85% \n Alarma: <60%", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "LAB", "CC", "% de rizo retenido después de aplicar y liberar carga. CS baja → el rizo colapsa durante la tensión de tejido → el tejido pierde volumen al lavado. Crítico para tejidos de punto-elástico.", "Parte del mismo protocolo de ensayo de rizo ISO 5688", "DTY NTY" ], [ "C19", "Elasticidad del Rizo % (CE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Alta: >85% \n Estándar: 70–85% \n Baja: <70%", ">85%", ">75%", ">65%", "LAB", "CC", "% de recuperación elástica del rizo tras carga cíclica. CE deficiente en hilo de urdimbre causa extensión progresiva de longitud durante el tejido y variación en densidad de trama.", "Método de carga cíclica ISO 5688", "DTY NTY" ], [ "C21", "Intermingling \/ Entrelazado (nips\/m)", "ENTERO", "Ensayo de aguja \/ DIN 66132", "NIM: <30 \n SIM ligero: 30–60 \n SIM std: 60–100 \n HIM: 100–150 \n V.HIM: >150", "±10 nips\/m", "±15 nips\/m", "±25 nips\/m", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "Determina la cohesión del hilo sin encolado. Por debajo de 40: urdimbre necesita encolado o alta torsión. Por encima de 80: tejible sin encolado. Ensayo de aguja: pasar aguja por el hilo, contar puntos de resistencia en 1m.", "Ensayo de aguja — rápido, bajo costo, en planta. Ensayar 1m × 5 repeticiones", "DTY FDY NTY NFY" ], [ " D · Propiedades Térmicas", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D22", "Contracción en Agua en Ebullición % (CAE)", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "POY: 35–55% \n FDY std: 5–9% \n FDY baja contracción: 1–4% \n DTY crudo(1H): 6–10% \n DTY fijado(2H): 2–5% \n PA6: 8–12% \n PA6.6: 5–9%", "CV lote<0.5%", "CV lote<1.0%", "CV lote<1.5%", "INHOUSE", "TODO", "PARÁMETRO TÉRMICO MÁS CRÍTICO. La variación CAE de lote a lote es MÁS importante que el valor absoluto — diferencia de CAE entre conos causa barré en tejido teñido. Cualquier cono >1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Ensayo: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla.", "En planta: devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo + regla. Ensayar 10 conos\/lote", "TODOS" ], [ "D23", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 160°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET FDY std: 3–7% \n PET baja contracción: 0.5–3% \n DTY fijado: 1–4% \n PA6: 4–8% \n PA6.6: 3–6%", "<3% (PET FDY)", "<5%", "<7%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "Controla los límites de temperatura de la rama. Alta CCS → el tejido no puede tensionarse por encima de esa temperatura sin distorsión. Horno térmico (160°C \/ 30 min), medir % de pérdida de longitud.", "Horno térmico + madeja. Ensayar a 160°C y 180°C — especificar cuál aplica", "TODOS" ], [ "D24", "Contracción en Calor Seco % @ 180°C", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "PET std: 5–12% \n PET baja cont.: 2–6% \n PA6: 8–15% \n PA6.6: 5–10%", "<6%", "<9%", "<12%", "INHOUSE", "CC", "La mayoría de ramas funcionan a 170–190°C para poliéster. La CCS a 180°C determina si la anchura del tejido es estable a la temperatura operativa de la rama. PA6 es mucho más sensible al calor que PET.", "Mismo ensayo que a 160°C — ejecutar ambas temperaturas en la misma madeja", "TODOS" ], [ "D25", "Tg \/ Punto de Fusión", "NUMÉRICO", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357 (DSC)", "PET Tg≈70–80°C \/ Tf≈255–265°C \n CD-PET Tf≈240°C \n PA6 Tf≈215°C \n PA6.6 Tf≈260°C \n ELS degrada >150°C", "Certificado DSC", "Certificado DSC", "Datos proveedor", "LAB", "ID", "Tg gobierna el inicio de absorción de colorante. Tintura PET a 130°C bajo presión supera la Tg (80°C). El punto de fusión establece el límite absoluto de temperatura para todo procesamiento.", "Ensayo DSC en laboratorio externo. Necesario para disputas de verificación de polímero", "TODOS" ], [ "D26", "Eficiencia de Termofijado (ETF %)", "NUMÉRICO", "DIN 53866 \/ método interno", "DTY fijado 2H: ETF >85% \n DTY 1H: ETF 60–80% \n Sin fijar: <60%", ">88%", ">80%", ">70%", "LAB", "CC", "% de rizo permanentemente fijado vs rizo residual activo. Alta ETF = hilo dimensionalmente estable en tintura húmeda-caliente. Baja ETF → hilo se contrae en baño de tinte causando barré y pérdida de anchura.", "Medición de rizo antes\/después de tratamiento en agua caliente per DIN 53866", "DTY NTY" ] ] }, "WCM_NOTACION": { "total_rows": 26, "total_cols": "I", "preview": [ [ "ESTÁNDAR DE NOTACIÓN DE CLASE MUNDIAL — ESPECIFICACIÓN EXTENDIDA", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Investigación directa: BISFA · ISO TC38 · ASTM · Uster Statistics · mapofsciences.com · glyarn.com · instron.com · textileengineering.net · OEKO-TEX", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Pos", "Campo Canónico", "Nombre ES \/ EN", "Requisito", "Aplica A", "Valores Estándar", "Valores Extendidos (Clase Mundial)", "Regla de Notación", "Nota Clase Mundial + Fuente" ], [ "1", "TIPO_FIBRA", "Tipo de Fibra \/ Proceso\nFiber \/ Process Type", "OBLIGATORIO", "TODOS", "DTY · FDY · NFY · NTY · PFY · POY · ACY · ATY · ALG · ELS\/LYC · POL\/ALG · VIS", "BCF (Bulk Continuous Filament carpet) · MON (monofilamento) · HT (High Tenacity) · IMY (Industrial Multifilament)", "Posición 1 siempre fija. NUNCA abreviar diferente. Para HT: prefijo HT-DTY o HT-FDY.", "World-class mills additionally distinguish: DTY-SD, DTY-FD, DTY-BR as separate type codes to eliminate cross-section ambiguity at the type level.\n⬡ Fuente: BISFA Terminology 2009 \/ mapofsciences.com Yarn Testing \/ ISO TC38" ], [ "2", "GRADO_POLIMERO", "Grado de Polímero\nPolymer Grade", "CONDICIONAL (Nailon únicamente)", "NFY · NTY · ACY nailon", "6 (PA6, Tf≈215°C) · 6.6 (PA6.6, Tf≈260°C)", "6T (PA6T alta temperatura) · 46 (PA46, Tf≈295°C, uso técnico) · UHMWPE (polietileno ultra-alto peso molecular) · PEEK (uso aeroespacial)", "Separar con guion del tipo: NFY-6, NFY-6.6. Omitir para PET.", "DSC verification (ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357) is mandatory at AA grade — label declaration alone insufficient. Tg of PA6=50°C, PA6.6=70°C determines dye penetration onset.\n⬡ Fuente: ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357-2 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "3", "DENIER\/FILS", "Densidad Lineal \/ Nº Filamentos\nLinear Density \/ Filament Count", "OBLIGATORIO", "TODOS", "DDD\/FFF formato: 75\/72 · 150\/144 · 300\/96 · 100\/96 · 50\/36", "Microfibra: dpf<1.0 · Nanofibra: dpf<0.3 · Monofilamento: 1F · Sistema dtex también válido (167dtex\/48F)", "dtex = denier × 1.111. Para ALG: Ne count\/cabo (30\/1, 40\/2). Para filamentos paralelos: ×2.", "World-class specs state BOTH denier AND dpf explicitly. dpf drives hand, coverage, pilling. Denier tolerance at AA grade: ±1.5%. ISO 2060 gravimetric test: 10 × 100m skeins, ±1% accuracy at 65%RH±4, 20°C±2.\n⬡ Fuente: ISO 2060 · ASTM D1907 · mapofsciences.com count testing" ], [ "4", "CABO", "Cabo \/ Extremos\nPly \/ Ends", "CONDICIONAL (omitir si =1)", "Solo cuando cabo > 1", "\/2 (retorcido) · \/3 · ×2 (paralelo) · ×3", "CORD (3+ cabos en cable) · Hawser twist (misma dirección) · Cable twist (dirección opuesta)", "REGLA: \/2=retorcido; ×2=paralelo. NUNCA escribir \/1.", "Ply twist direction is always OPPOSITE to single twist direction in balanced yarns to minimize residual torque. Residual torque >45° rotation (Zweigle G566 loop test) causes spirality in knit and snarling in weave.\n⬡ Fuente: ISO 2061 untwist-retwist \/ textileengineering.net yarn mechanics" ], [ "5", "SECC_TRANSV", "Sección Transversal y Brillo\nCross-Section & Luster", "OBLIGATORIO", "TODOS — NUNCA omitir", "SD (0.3–0.5% TiO₂) · BR (brillante, <0.05% TiO₂) · FD (full-dull, 1.5–3.0% TiO₂) · CAT (catiónico) · RIG (rígido\/plano)", "TRI (trilobal, brillo especial) · OC (octalobal) · HOL (hueco, aislante) · LOTUS (gestión humedad) · FLAT (cinta plana) · RD (redondo estándar)", "CAT siempre explícito — cambia TODA la receta de tintorería.", "TiO₂ content verified by XRF after ashing at 800°C. SD vs BR in same warp → shade difference visible under oblique\/raking light even at ΔE<1.0. Cationic PET has lower Tm (~240°C) than standard PET (~260°C) — confirmed by DSC.\n⬡ Fuente: ISO 137 (cross-section microscopy) \/ XRF ash method \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "6", "CALENTADORES", "Calentadores de Texturado\nTexturing Heaters", "CONDICIONAL (DTY\/NTY únicamente)", "DTY · NTY", "1H (un calentador, CAE 6–10%) · 2H (dos calentadores, CAE 2–5%)", "2H-SET (termofijado adicional post-texturado) · HS (heat-set, muy estable) · RAW (sin fijado, POY texturado directo)", "Omitir para FDY, PFY, ATY, NFY.", "T1 (primary heater PET): 180–220°C governs crimp intensity. T2 (setting heater, 2H only): 120–160°C governs residual shrinkage and torque. Heat Set Efficiency (HSE) measured by DIN 53866: AA grade >88%. 2H DTY BWS 2–5% vs 1H DTY BWS 6–10%.\n⬡ Fuente: DIN 53866 \/ mapofsciences.com filament yarn testing \/ glyarn.com" ], [ "7", "NIVEL_FIJADO", "Nivel de Intermingling\nIntermingling \/ Set Level", "CONDICIONAL (DTY\/NTY únicamente)", "DTY · NTY", "NIM (<30 nips\/m) · SIM (30–100 nips\/m) · HIM (100–150+ nips\/m)", "COMP (compactado, tipo especial) · NET (entrelazado en red) · STR (stretch, bajo intermingling intencional)", "Medido por ensayo de aguja (hook probe) o ROTHSCHILD F-Meter. nips\/m = indicador cuantitativo del nivel.", "World-class: specify BOTH the label (SIM\/HIM\/NIM) AND the target nips\/m range on PO. Warp weaving without sizing: minimum 60–80 nips\/m required. Entanglement count optimum: 40–80\/m for weaving, 20–40\/m for knitting (mapofsciences.com). Measured by Rothschild F-Meter or hook-probe method.\n⬡ Fuente: mapofsciences.com \/ DIN 66132 \/ Rothschild F-Meter" ], [ "8", "TORSION", "Torsión (TPM) + Dirección\nTwist (TPM) + Direction", "CONDICIONAL (solo hilados retorcidos)", "Hilados retorcidos; omitir si TPM=0", "Format: ddddS o ddddZ (ej: 600S, 1200Z)", "Twist factor αe = TPM × √Ne (cotton system). αm = TPM \/ √Nm. Crepe yarn: >2500 TPM.", "Número siempre primero, luego dirección. Sin guion. Valor por defecto = 0 TPM (omitir).", "Optimal twist factor (αe) for warp weaving Ne30: 3.8–4.2 (TPM≈800–900). Knitting weft Ne30: 3.2–3.6 (TPM≈670–760). Higher twist: +strength, −elongation, −softness. Lower twist: warp breakage +15–25%. Measured per ISO 2061 untwist-retwist, gauge 250mm (filament) \/ 500mm (staple), pretension 0.5 cN\/tex.\n⬡ Fuente: ISO 2061 \/ ASTM D1423 \/ mapofsciences.com twist testing \/ textileengineering.net" ], [ "9", "+COMPONENTE_2", "+Componente Secundario\n+Secondary Component", "CONDICIONAL (cubiertas\/compuestas)", "ACY · ATY · cubiertos", "+ELS40 · +LYC40 · +ELS70 · +ELS40×2 · +T400 · +PFY50", "+SORONA · +PBT · +PTT · +UHMWPE · +STEEL (hilado de acero técnico)", "REGLA: ELS40 sin \/1. Siempre + antes del código. Dos extremos: ELS40×2.", "World-class ACY spec requires BOTH component specs AND construction spec. Cover turns\/m (CPM) governs stretch level — not reflected in description. Draft ratio of elastane (3.0–4.5×) and CPM must be on spec sheet separately.\n⬡ Fuente: ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932 \/ mapofsciences.com specialty yarn testing" ], [ "10", "REC", "Contenido Reciclado\nRecycled Content", "CONDICIONAL (solo si hay contenido reciclado)", "Todos con contenido reciclado", "REC (normalizado desde RECICLADO)", "REC-GRS (certificado GRS) · REC-RCS (certificado RCS) · REC-PCR (post-consumer) · REC-PIR (post-industrial)", "Siempre ANTES de tecnología especial. RECICLADO→REC siempre.", "GRS (Global Recycled Standard by Textile Exchange) is the gold standard — requires full chain of custody + social\/environmental criteria + annual scope certificate + transaction certificate per lot. RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) is chain-of-custody only. Self-declaration 'REC' without certification is insufficient for Nike\/brand supply chains.\n⬡ Fuente: Textile Exchange GRS\/RCS Standard · textileexchange.org" ], [ "11", "TEC_ESPECIAL", "Tecnología Especial\nSpecial Technology", "CONDICIONAL (solo cuando es identidad del hilo)", "Cuando la tecnología es parte esencial", "T400 · T800 · TASLAN · SORONA · PBT · SORBTEK · REFLEXX · REPREVE · HCR", "EXCEL (Asahi Kasei hollow fiber) · COOLMAX (Invista moisture management) · THERMOLITE (Invista insulation) · CORDURA (Invista abrasion) · COOLTOUCH (thermal contact cooling)", "SIEMPRE el ÚLTIMO campo. Después del REC.", "Brand technology suffixes carry licensing obligations and performance certifications. REPREVE requires Unifi chain-of-custody certificate in addition to GRS. T400\/T800 require Lycra Company certification and specific heat-setting window (170–185°C) to develop self-crimping. Always distinguish technology brand from fiber spec.\n⬡ Fuente: The Lycra Company tech data \/ Unifi REPREVE certification \/ glyarn.com" ], [ "TABLA DE CONVERSIÓN DE UNIDADES — Sistema Internacional de Hilados", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "De", "A", "Fórmula", "Ejemplo", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Denier (D)", "Decitex (dtex)", "D × 1.111 = dtex", "75D = 83.3 dtex", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Decitex (dtex)", "Denier (D)", "dtex × 0.9000 = D", "167 dtex = 150D", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Tex (tex)", "Denier (D)", "tex × 9 = D", "16.7 tex = 150D", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Ne cotton (Ne)", "Tex (tex)", "590.5 \/ Ne = tex", "Ne 30 = 19.7 tex = 177D", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Nm metric (Nm)", "Tex (tex)", "1000 \/ Nm = tex", "Nm 50 = 20 tex = 180D", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "g\/denier (g\/d)", "cN\/dtex", "g\/d × 0.8826 = cN\/dtex", "5.0 g\/d = 4.41 cN\/dtex", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "cN\/dtex", "g\/denier (g\/d)", "cN\/dtex × 1.1330 = g\/d", "4.0 cN\/dtex = 4.53 g\/d", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "TPM (turns\/m)", "TPI (turns\/inch)", "TPM \/ 39.37 = TPI", "600 TPM = 15.2 TPI", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "mm elongation", "% elongation", "mm \/ gauge_length × 100", "125mm \/ 500mm = 25%", "", "", "", "", "" ] ] }, "WCM_ATRIBUTOS": { "total_rows": 64, "total_cols": "K", "preview": [ [ "ATRIBUTOS DE CLASE MUNDIAL — ESPECIFICACIÓN ESTÁNDAR Y EXTENDIDA", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Fuentes: mapofsciences.com · ISO 2060\/2061\/2062\/5688\/16549 · ASTM D2256\/D1907\/D1423\/D3108\/D2259\/D4974\/D6720 · Uster Statistics 2023 · glyarn.com · textileschool.com", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Grp", "Código", "Atributo ES", "Atributo EN", "Tipos de Hilo", "Especificación ESTÁNDAR\n(industria general)", "Especificación CLASE MUNDIAL\n(WCM \/ AA Grade)", "Norma(s) de Ensayo", "Equipo \/ Instrumento", "Umbrales de Grado", "Fuente \/ Referencia" ], [ " GRUPO A ── A · Identidad", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "A", "tipo_fibra", "Tipo de Fibra\/Proceso", "Fiber\/Process Type", "ALL", "Declaración COA obligatoria", "DSC + FTIR para verificación independiente cuando hay disputa", "BISFA \/ ISO TC38", "DSC (ASTM D3418), FTIR espectrómetro", "AA: verificado instrumentalmente · A: declaración firmada · B: etiqueta", "BISFA Terminology 2009 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "A", "grado_polimero", "Grado de Polímero", "Polymer Grade", "NFY NTY", "PA6 Tf≈215°C vs PA6.6 Tf≈260°C — declaración COA", "DSC obligatorio para AA; FTIR confirma espectro de absorción", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357", "DSC (Mettler Toledo DSC3, TA Q2000)", "AA: DSC certificado · A: DSC requerido · B: declaración", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357-2" ], [ "A", "seccion_transversal", "Sección Transversal y Brillo", "Cross-Section & Luster", "ALL", "SD=0.3–0.5% TiO₂ · BR<0.05% · FD=1.5–3.0%", "XRF after ashing + microscopía cross-section; desviación máx ±0.05% TiO₂", "ISO 137 microscopía \/ XRF", "Microscopio óptico + XRF (Bruker S2 Ranger)", "AA: XRF certificado + foto microscopía · A: XRF · B: declaración", "ISO 137 \/ XRF ash method" ], [ "A", "tinturabilidad", "Tinturabilidad \/ Afinidad", "Dyeability", "ALL", "STD (disperso) · CAT (catiónico) · ACID (nailon)", "Lab mini-dyeing obligatoria antes de warping; grey scale ISO 105-A02", "Lab dye test + ISO 105-A02", "Espectrofotómetro (Datacolor 800, X-Rite), baño de tinte de lab", "AA: lab dye ΔE≤1.0 · A: ΔE≤1.5 · B: ΔE≤2.5", "ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244 \/ CIELAB" ], [ " GRUPO B ── B · Densidad Lineal", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "B", "denier_nominal", "Densidad Lineal — Denier", "Linear Density (Denier)", "ALL filament", "Tolerancia: ±2–4% del nominal", "ISO 2060 gravimétrico: 10 × 100m madejas, ±1% precisión @ 65%HR, 20°C", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Devanadora (SDL Atlas YG086E, 1.5m perímetro ±0.1mm) + Balanza analítica (Mettler Toledo XP205, ±0.01mg)", "AA: ±1.5% · A: ±2.0% · B: ±3.0%", "ISO 2060 \/ mapofsciences.com count testing" ], [ "B", "dpf", "Denier por Filamento (dpf)", "Denier per Filament (dpf)", "ALL filament", "Calculado: denier ÷ filaments. Microfibra: dpf<1.0", "dpf <1.0 = microfibra. dpf <0.3 = nanofibra. Registrar obligatoriamente.", "Calculado (no hay norma separada)", "Cálculo automático del sistema ERP", "dpf declarado en COA + registrado en maestro de artículos", "Calculated from ISO 2060 + filament count" ], [ "B", "tolerancia_denier", "Tolerancia de Denier ±%", "Denier Tolerance ±%", "ALL filament", "±2% (premium) a ±4% (commodity)", "Especificar tolerancia EN LA OC como condición contractual", "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Misma devanadora + balanza", "AA: ±1.5% · A: ±2.0% · B: ±3.0% · C: >±3%", "ISO 2060 \/ glyarn.com spec sheet guide" ], [ "B", "tpm", "Torsión (TPM)", "Twist (TPM)", "Twisted yarns", "TPM + dirección S\/Z. Método destorsión-retorsión.", "αm = TPM × √tex\/10 · αe = TPI × √Ne. Warp αe: 3.8–4.2 @ Ne30", "ISO 2061 \/ ASTM D1423", "Torsiómetro (Zweigle D302, SDL Atlas M021A); gauge: 250mm filamento \/ 500mm estambrado", "AA: ±3% de spec · A: ±5% · B: ±8%", "ISO 2061 \/ mapofsciences.com twist testing" ], [ "B", "torque_residual", "Torque Residual", "Residual Torque", "Twisted & plied", "Medido por ángulo de rotación del bucle a equilibrio", "Target: <45° de rotación. >45° causa espiral en tejido de punto y enredo en telar.", "Zweigle G566 loop test", "Zweigle G566; bucle 500mm, sujetar extremos, medir ángulo", "AA: <20° · A: <35° · B: <45° · C: >45° = rechazo", "mapofsciences.com \/ Zweigle G566 method" ], [ " GRUPO C ── C · Mecánico", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "C", "tenacidad", "Tenacidad (cN\/dtex)", "Tenacity (cN\/dtex)", "ALL", "PET FDY: 3.5–4.5 · DTY: 3.0–4.5 · PA6: 4.0–6.0 · PA6.6: 5.0–7.5 · HT PET: 6.0–9.0", "Standard PET FDY: 4.5–6.0 g\/d (=3.97–5.3 cN\/dtex). HT: 7.0–8.5+ g\/d. 20 tests mínimo, gauge 500mm fil \/ 250mm estambrado.", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Textechno Statimat 4U (300 tests\/h) · Uster Tensorapid 4 (5000 tests\/h) · Instron 6800 Series; grips capstan 2714-005", "AA: FDY>4.2 \/ DTY>3.8 cN\/dtex · A: FDY>3.8\/DTY>3.5 · B: FDY>3.5\/DTY>3.0", "ISO 2062 \/ instron.com ASTM D2256 \/ glyarn.com \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "C", "alargamiento_rotura", "Alargamiento en Rotura (%)", "Elongation at Break (%)", "ALL", "FDY PET: 15–25% · DTY: 20–30% · HT: 10–16% · PA6: 30–50%", "Clase mundial: informar media + CV%. CV%<6% para AA. Tolerancia: ±1–2% para calidad premium.", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Mismo equipo que tenacidad (CRE, gauge 500mm, 500mm\/min)", "AA: CV<6% · A: CV<8% · B: CV<12%", "ISO 2062 \/ glyarn.com Table 2 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "C", "fuerza_rotura", "Fuerza de Rotura (cN)", "Breaking Force (cN)", "ALL", "Valor absoluto = tenacidad × dtex. Variabilidad inter-paquete es la métrica clave.", "Informar media ± SD de 20 ensayos. CV% inter-paquete < 5% (AA). P0.01 percentil (Uster Tensorapid): weak-place frequency.", "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Uster Tensorapid 4\/5 (P0.01, P0.05 percentile reporting)", "AA: CV<5% · A: CV<7% · B: CV<10%", "ISO 2062 \/ instron.com \/ mapofsciences.com tensile testing" ], [ "C", "modulo_inicial", "Módulo Inicial (cN\/dtex)", "Initial Modulus (cN\/dtex)", "ALL", "PET FDY: 60–90 · DTY: 20–45 · PA6: 25–50", "Pendiente de curva tensión-deformación al 1–2% de alargamiento. Alto módulo = más limpio por mallas del telar.", "ISO 2062 derivado", "Mismo equipo CRE, software calcula pendiente automáticamente", "Especificar por aplicación warp\/weft · Solo informar para aplicaciones técnicas críticas", "ISO 2062 \/ textileengineering.net yarn mechanics" ], [ "C", "trabajo_rotura", "Trabajo hasta Rotura (cN·cm)", "Work to Rupture (cN·cm)", "ALL technical", "Área bajo curva tensión-deformación", "Warp mínimo: 8 cN·cm\/tex para tejido. Derivado del ensayo de tracción.", "ISO 2062 derivado", "Software automático CRE (Bluehill Universal en Instron)", "Warp técnico: >8 cN·cm\/tex", "mapofsciences.com \/ instron.com ASTM D2256" ], [ "C", "contraccion_rizo", "Contracción del Rizo % (CC)", "Crimp Contraction % (CC)", "DTY NTY", "1H SIM: 15–35% · 2H HIM: 8–20% · 2H SIM: 10–25% · NIM: <8%", "CC% = (Longitud extendida - longitud rizo) \/ longitud extendida × 100. Pretensión: 0.001 cN\/dtex (rizo) vs 0.05 cN\/dtex (extendido).", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Dynamómetro con pretensión controlada; mapofsciences: CC medido @ 0.001 vs 0.05 cN\/dtex", "AA: ±2% de spec · A: ±3% · B: ±5%", "ISO 5688 \/ mapofsciences.com filament yarn testing" ], [ "C", "estabilidad_rizo", "Estabilidad del Rizo % (CS)", "Crimp Stability % (CS)", "DTY NTY", "Target: >70% · Alta calidad: >85%", "CS = CC medido después de inmersión 30 min en agua a 100°C (ebullición). CS>80% para estabilidad en tintorería.", "ISO 5688", "Mismo equipo + baño de agua a 100°C, medir CC antes y después", "AA: >85% · A: >75% · B: >65% · C: <65%", "ISO 5688 \/ mapofsciences.com filament yarn testing" ], [ "C", "elasticidad_rizo", "Elasticidad del Rizo % (CE)", "Crimp Elasticity % (CE)", "DTY NTY", "Alta: >85% · Estándar: 70–85%", "CE deficiente en urdimbre → elongación progresiva → variación densidad de trama.", "ISO 5688 DIN 53840", "Carga cíclica según ISO 5688", "AA: >85% · A: >75% · B: >65%", "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840" ], [ "C", "recuperacion_elastica", "Recuperación Elástica % (ELR)", "Elastic Recovery %", "T400 PBT ELS-covered", "T400: >90% @ 50% · ELS cubierto: >95%", "10 ciclos a 80% elongación, 100mm\/min. Set permanente especificación <5% (compresión\/hosiery) <3% (deportes de compresión).", "ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932", "CRE tester con extensómetro; Uster Tensorapid adaptado", "AA: >95% · A: >90% · B: >80%", "ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932 \/ mapofsciences.com specialty yarn" ], [ "C", "intermingling_nips", "Intermingling (nips\/m)", "Intermingling (nips\/m)", "DTY FDY NTY", "NIM<30 · SIM 30–100 · HIM 100–150+", "Warp sin encolado: mínimo 60–80 nips\/m. Knitting: 20–40 nips\/m. Medición: Rothschild F-Meter o aguja.", "DIN 66132 \/ aguja", "Rothschild F-Meter (electrónico) o aguja manual sobre 1m; mapofsciences: hook-probe method", "AA: ±10 nips\/m · A: ±15 · B: ±25", "DIN 66132 \/ Rothschild F-Meter \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ " GRUPO D ── D · Térmico", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "D", "cae", "Contracción Agua Ebullición % (CAE)", "Boiling Water Shrinkage %", "ALL", "FDY std: 5–9% · FDY low-shrink: 1–4% · DTY 1H: 6–10% · DTY 2H: 2–5% · PA6: 8–12%", "CV% lote a lote MÁS CRÍTICO que el valor absoluto. Cualquier cono >±1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Pretensión: 0.05 cN\/dtex durante inmersión.", "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "Devanadora + baño de agua hirviendo controlado + regla calibrada (±0.5mm)", "AA: Lote CV<0.5% · A: <1.0% · B: <1.5% · C: >1.5%", "ASTM D2259 \/ mapofsciences.com \/ glyarn.com shrinkage" ], [ "D", "ccs_160", "Contracción Calor Seco @ 160°C", "Dry Heat Shrinkage @ 160°C", "ALL", "PET FDY std: 3–7% · PET low-shrink: 0.5–3% · PA6: 4–8%", "Test: ISO 7222 \/ ASTM D4974 — horno a 160°C \/ 30 min bajo 0.05 cN\/dtex pretensión.", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "Horno de laboratorio ±1°C (Heraeus UT 6200) + devanadora", "AA: <3% (PET FDY) · A: <5% · B: <7%", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222 \/ glyarn.com hot air shrinkage" ], [ "D", "ccs_180", "Contracción Calor Seco @ 180°C", "Dry Heat Shrinkage @ 180°C", "ALL", "PET std: 5–12% · PET low-shrink: 2–6% · PA6: 8–15% · PA6.6: 5–10%", "La mayoría de ramas PET opera a 170–190°C. Esta medición es crítica para dimensionamiento.", "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "Mismo horno de laboratorio", "AA: <6% · A: <9% · B: <12%", "ASTM D4974 \/ glyarn.com Table 1" ], [ "D", "punto_fusion", "Tg \/ Punto de Fusión (DSC)", "Glass Transition \/ Melting Point", "ALL", "PET Tg≈70–80°C, Tm≈255°C · CD-PET Tm≈240°C · PA6 Tm≈215°C · PA6.6 Tm≈260°C", "ELS\/Spandex: degrada irreversiblemente >150°C. PET dyeing at 130°C is above Tg (80°C) — required for disperse dye penetration.", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357", "DSC (Mettler Toledo DSC3 o TA Q2000); rampa 10°C\/min", "AA: DSC certificado · A: DSC requerido · B: datos proveedor", "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "D", "hse", "Eficiencia de Termofijado (HSE %)", "Heat Set Efficiency (HSE %)", "DTY NTY", "2H DTY: HSE >85% · 1H DTY: 60–80%", "CC medido antes y después de tratamiento en agua caliente. HSE=(CC_antes - CC_después)\/CC_antes × 100.", "DIN 53866", "Devanadora + baño + dinamómetro", "AA: >88% · A: >80% · B: >70% · C: <70%", "DIN 53866 \/ mapofsciences.com filament yarn" ], [ " GRUPO E ── E · Uniformidad", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "E", "cvm", "CVm% Densidad Lineal (Uster)", "CVm% Linear Density (Uster)", "ALL", "FDY PET: 0.5–1.2% · DTY: 0.6–1.5% · NFY PA: 0.5–1.0%", "USTER Statistics 2023: PET flat filament 167dtex — 5th%ile≤0.50%, 25th%ile≤0.80%, 50th%ile≤1.20%. Uster Tester 6: capacitivo, 4000Hz @ 400m\/min, ranura 8mm×1mm.", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Uster Tester 6 (Uster Technologies) — instrumento de referencia mundial", "AA: ≤0.7% (5th %ile) · A: ≤1.0% (25th %ile) · B: ≤1.5% (50th %ile)", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Statistics 2023 \/ sablabs.net \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "E", "lugares_finos", "Lugares Finos (-50%) por km", "Thin Places (-50%) per km", "ALL", "FDY 5th%ile: <2\/km · 25th%ile: <8\/km · 50th%ile: <20\/km", "Umbral −50%: punto potencial de rotura de urdimbre. Fuente directa de paros de telar.", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Uster Tester 6 (simultáneo con CVm)", "AA: ≤5th%ile · A: ≤25th%ile · B: ≤50th%ile", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Statistics \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "E", "lugares_gruesos", "Lugares Gruesos (+50%) por km", "Thick Places (+50%) per km", "ALL", "FDY 5th%ile: <5\/km · 25th%ile: <20\/km · 50th%ile: <50\/km", "Periódicos (misma longitud de onda) FAR más dañinos que aleatorios — indican defecto mecánico.", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Uster Tester 6 + análisis espectrograma", "AA: ≤5th%ile · A: ≤25th%ile · B: ≤50th%ile", "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Statistics \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "E", "neps", "Neps por km", "Neps per km", "DTY NTY", "Filamento: <5\/km objetivo · Alarma: >20\/km", "Umbral +200%. Cada nep = defecto visible tipo nudo en tejido.", "Uster Tester 6 \/ ASTM D5867", "Uster Tester 6 (simultáneo)", "AA: <5\/km · A: <10\/km · B: <20\/km", "Uster Tester 6 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "E", "vellosidad_h", "Vellosidad H (Hairiness Index)", "Hairiness Index H", "ALL", "FDY: H<1.5 · DTY: H 1.5–3.0 · Alarma: H>5.0", "Uster H = longitud total fibras que sobresalen por cm @ 1mm ref. sH% = CV% de vellosidad a lo largo del hilo.", "Uster Tester 6 \/ ISO 13938", "Uster Tester 6 sensor óptico · Zweigle G567 (S1\/S2\/S3 counts)", "AA: H<1.5 · A: H<2.5 · B: H<4.0", "ISO 13938 \/ Uster Statistics \/ mapofsciences.com hairiness" ], [ "E", "espectrograma", "Espectrograma \/ Defectos Periódicos", "Spectrogram \/ Periodic Faults", "ALL", "Espectro limpio: sin chimeneas (hills\/chimneys)", "Uster Classimat 5: matriz 23 clases (12 gruesos A1–D4, 4 finos I1–I4). Chimenea en longitud de onda X → defecto mecánico en rodillo de circunferencia X.", "Uster Tester 6 + Classimat 5", "Uster Tester 6 espectrograma + USTER EXPERT software", "AA: espectro limpio · A: sin chimenea mayor · B: periodicidad menor · C: chimenea = rechazo", "Uster Statistics \/ mapofsciences.com classimat \/ sablabs.net" ], [ "E", "cv_cono", "CV% Denier Cono a Cono", "Denier CV% Cone-to-Cone", "ALL", "Target: CV<2.0% · Alarma: CV>3.5%", "Variación del denier promedio entre conos del mismo lote. Predice variación de tensión de urdimbre.", "ISO 2060 (10+ conos por lote)", "Misma devanadora + balanza. Ensayar ≥10 conos por lote.", "AA: <1.5% · A: <2.0% · B: <3.0%", "ISO 2060 \/ glyarn.com quality cheat sheet" ], [ "E", "classimat", "Clasificación Classimat", "Classimat Defect Classification", "ALL", "Gruesos A1–D4, Finos I1–I4; 23 clases", "Tasa de corte óptima: 80–120 cortes\/100km elimina 95% defectos visibles en tejido manteniendo eficiencia de devanado >92%.", "Uster Classimat 5", "Uster Classimat 5 \/ Quantum 4 en máquinas de devanado", "Warp mínimo Grado B3 (ASTM D2255 appearance board)", "mapofsciences.com classimat \/ ASTM D2255" ], [ " GRUPO F ── F · Superficie", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "F", "opu", "Aceite de Ensimaje % (OPU)", "Oil Pick-Up \/ Spin Finish % (OPU)", "ALL", "POY: 0.3–0.6% · FDY: 0.8–1.2% · DTY: 2.5–4.5% · NFY: 0.6–1.0%", "Extracción Soxhlet con hexano. Weaving warp filament: óptimo 0.3–0.6% OWF según mapofsciences. NMR: método rápido alternativo.", "ASTM D2257 \/ Soxhlet hexane", "Extractor Soxhlet (Büchi B-811) · NMR Process Analytics", "AA: ±0.2% de spec · A: ±0.3% · B: ±0.5%", "ASTM D2257 \/ mapofsciences.com finish oil \/ glyarn.com" ], [ "F", "friccion_ytm", "Fricción Hilo-Metal (μ-YTM)", "Yarn-to-Metal Friction (μ-YTM)", "ALL", "PET: μ 0.20–0.35 · PA: μ 0.15–0.25", "Método capstan ASTM D3108: hilo envuelto 180° alrededor de pasador de acero pulido @ 200–1000 m\/min. μ = ln(T₂\/T₁)\/π. PET @ 200m\/min: μ=0.18–0.25; @ 1000m\/min: μ=0.12–0.18 (régimen hidrodinámico).", "ASTM D3108 \/ Rothschild", "Medidor de fricción Rothschild F-Meter · SDL Atlas", "AA: ±0.02 de spec · A: ±0.03 · B: ±0.05", "ASTM D3108 \/ mapofsciences.com friction \/ glyarn.com hidden variables" ], [ "F", "friccion_yty", "Fricción Hilo-Hilo (μ-YTY)", "Yarn-to-Yarn Friction (μ-YTY)", "ALL", "PET: μ 0.30–0.50 · PA: μ 0.25–0.45", "Knitting: μ<0.3 (estándar) · μ<0.2 (high-speed warp knitting @ 3000 courses\/min).", "ASTM D3412", "SDL Atlas Friction Tester; 45° wrap, 10cm\/min", "AA: ±0.03 · A: ±0.05 · B: ±0.08", "ASTM D3412 \/ mapofsciences.com friction testing" ], [ "F", "carga_estatica", "Carga Electrostática (V)", "Static Charge Generation (V)", "ALL", "Aceptable: <500V · Problema: >1000V · Crítico: >2000V", "UHMWPE μ=0.06–0.10 (muy bajo). PA más propenso que PET a carga estática. Antiestático en ensimaje controla.", "AATCC 134 \/ IEC 61340-4-1", "Medidor electrostático", "AA: <500V · A: <1000V · B: <2000V", "AATCC 134 \/ mapofsciences.com friction" ], [ "F", "factor_cohesion", "Factor de Cohesión (cN)", "Cohesion Factor (cN)", "DTY FDY", "Tejible: >10 cN · Warp: >15 cN", "Fuerza para separar el hilo en un nodo de entrelazado. Cut rate de Classimat debe balancearse con este factor.", "DIN 66132 \/ pin cohesion test", "Tester de cohesión con pasador (Rothschild tipo)", "AA: >18 cN · A: >12 cN · B: >8 cN", "DIN 66132 \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "F", "filamentos_rotos", "Filamentos Rotos \/1000m", "Broken Filaments per 1000m", "ALL", "Warp: <5\/1000m · Weft: <15\/1000m", "Abrasión Zweigle: hilo sobre rueda abrasiva CS-10 @ 50cN — 800–2000 ciclos para hilo de tejido; >5000 para alfombra.", "Zweigle \/ Blackboard visual", "Pizarrón de terciopelo negro + bastidor tensión · Zweigle abrasion tester", "AA: <5\/1000m · A: <10 · B: <20", "mapofsciences.com friction \/ glyarn.com" ], [ "F", "uniformidad_tinte", "Uniformidad de Tinte ΔE", "Dye Uptake Uniformity ΔE", "ALL", "Cono a cono: ΔE≤1.5 · Lote a lote: ΔE≤2.0", "D65 + A + F2 iluminantes para verificar metamería. ΔE>2.0 visible en tejido bajo luz normal.", "ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244 CIELAB", "Espectrofotómetro (Datacolor 800, X-Rite i1) + baño de tinte de lab", "AA: ΔE≤1.0 · A: ΔE≤1.5 · B: ΔE≤2.5", "ISO 105-A02 \/ ASTM D2244 \/ textileschool.com" ], [ " GRUPO G ── G · Químico", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "G", "regain_humedad", "Regain de Humedad (%)", "Moisture Regain (%)", "ALL", "PET: 0.2–0.4% · PA6: 1.2–1.8% · ELS: 0.8–1.3%", "Condicionar SIEMPRE per ISO 139 antes de ensayos gravimétricos. PA absorbe 1.2–1.8% → peso real varía significativamente.", "ASTM D2495 \/ ISO 6741 \/ ISO 139", "Balanza analítica + cámara de acondicionamiento (20°C±2, 65%HR±4)", "Registrar con cada medición de denier", "ASTM D2495 \/ ISO 6741 \/ ISO 139 conditioning" ], [ "G", "ph_extracto", "pH del Extracto Acuoso", "pH of Aqueous Extract", "ALL", "Target: 4.5–7.5 · Skin-sensitive: 4.5–6.5 · Alarma: <4.0 o >8.5", "10g hilo en 100ml agua destilada, hervir 30 min, enfriar, medir pH. Rápido, bajo costo, alto valor.", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "Medidor de pH calibrado (Mettler Toledo SevenEasy)", "AA: 4.5–6.5 · A: 4.5–7.5 · B: 4.0–8.0", "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071 \/ textileschool.com" ], [ "G", "oeko_tex", "Certificación OEKO-TEX Std 100", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100", "ALL", "Clase II (contacto piel) para ropa", "Tests >1000 sustancias: pH, formaldehído, colorantes azo prohibidos, metales pesados, pesticidas, APEO, PFAS. Revisión de límites anual.", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100 (OEKO-TEX Association)", "Red de 35,000+ empresas certificadas. Laboratorios OEKO-TEX acreditados.", "AA: Clase I o II + número cert. · A: Clase II · B: Clase III", "oeko-tex.com \/ textileschool.com" ], [ "G", "reach_svhc", "Declaración REACH SVHC", "REACH SVHC Declaration", "ALL", "Sin SVHC >0.1% · O divulgación específica", "Lista SVHC >240 sustancias (ECHA). Requerido para mercado UE y todas las marcas principales.", "EU REACH Reg. 1907\/2006 (ECHA)", "Laboratorio químico acreditado. Declaración escrita por lote.", "AA: declaración completa <0.1% · A: declaración completa", "ECHA REACH \/ textileschool.com compliance" ], [ "G", "uv_resistencia", "Resistencia UV", "UV Resistance", "Outdoor Swim", "Apparel exterior: ≥4\/8 Lana Azul · Técnico: ≥5\/8", "Xenon arc weatherometer. PET: intrínsecamente estable. PA6.6: menos estable. ELS degrada rápido bajo UV.", "AATCC 16 \/ ISO 105-B02", "Cámara arco Xenón (SDL Atlas Weather-Ometer, Q-Lab Q-Sun)", "AA: ≥5\/8 Lana Azul · A: ≥4\/8 · B: ≥3\/8", "AATCC 16 \/ ISO 105-B02 \/ textileschool.com" ], [ "G", "resist_cloro", "Resistencia al Cloro (ΔE)", "Chlorine Resistance (ΔE)", "Swim Active", "Baño: ΔE≤3 tras 25 ciclos @ 20 ppm Cl", "PA y ELS estándar se degradan en agua clorada. Lycra Xtra Life, Creora Lux: grados resistentes.", "AATCC 162 \/ ISO 105-E03", "SDL Atlas Chlorine Resistance Tester", "AA: ΔE≤2 · A: ΔE≤3 · B: ΔE≤5", "AATCC 162 \/ ISO 105-E03" ], [ " GRUPO H ── H · Proceso", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "H", "relacion_estiraje", "Relación de Estiraje (RE)", "Draw Ratio (DR)", "FDY DTY", "DTY PET: 1.6–1.9× · FDY PET: 1.8–2.2× · HT: 3.0–4.5×", "No testable en fábrica. Determina orientación molecular → tenacidad y alargamiento. Solicitar en ficha técnica.", "Parámetro de proceso (ficha técnica proveedor)", "N\/A (proceso interno del productor)", "AA: documentado · A: documentado · B: declarado", "glyarn.com \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ "H", "relacion_dy", "Relación D\/Y (Texturado)", "D\/Y Ratio (False Twist)", "DTY NTY", "PET: 1.8–2.3 · PA: 1.7–2.1", "D\/Y controla intensidad del rizo. Mayor D\/Y → más rizo. SIM\/HIM derivado de D\/Y + temperatura calentador.", "Parámetro proceso texturizado", "N\/A (proceso interno)", "AA: documentado", "mapofsciences.com \/ DIN 53840" ], [ "H", "longitud_paquete", "Longitud de Hilo por Paquete (m)", "Yarn Length per Package (m)", "ALL", "Std: 15,000–30,000m · Grande: 30,000–80,000m", "Fórmula: Longitud = (peso neto g × 9000) ÷ denier. Paquetes cortos multiplican nudos y cambios de fileta.", "Calculado: (peso neto g × 9000) \/ denier", "Devanadora + balanza (cálculo)", "AA: ±2% · A: ±3% · B: ±5% · Warp mín: 20,000m\/cono", "mapofsciences.com \/ glyarn.com" ], [ "H", "tipo_enrollado", "Tipo de Enrollado", "Package Wind Type", "ALL", "SD-Wind (precisión escalonada) · Cruzado · Paralelo", "SD-Wind = tensión de desbobinado más consistente @ alta velocidad. Enrollado paralelo → fluctuaciones de tensión.", "Especificación del proveedor \/ visual", "Inspección visual", "AA y A: SD-Wind o precisión especificado en OC", "glyarn.com weaving applications \/ mapofsciences.com" ], [ " GRUPO J ── J · Comercial", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "J", "numero_lote", "Número de Lote \/ Partida", "Lot\/Batch Number", "ALL", "Trazabilidad completa por lote", "Cada cono → lote de producción → plegador → rollo de tejido. Sin trazabilidad: análisis de causa raíz imposible.", "Internal MES \/ ISO 9001", "Sistema MES", "AA: trazabilidad completa · A: lote trazable", "ISO 9001 QMS \/ MES tracking" ], [ "J", "cert_grs", "Certificación GRS \/ RCS", "GRS \/ RCS Certificate", "REC yarns", "GRS: cadena de custodia + criterios sociales\/ambientales · RCS: solo cadena de custodia", "Certificado de transacción (TC) por lote obligatorio. Renovación anual del certificado de alcance.", "Textile Exchange GRS v4.0 \/ RCS v2.0", "Red de auditores Textile Exchange; BV, SGS, Intertek", "AA: GRS certificado + TC\/lote · A: RCS + TC\/lote · B: autodeclarado", "textileexchange.org GRS\/RCS 2025" ], [ "J", "aql_muestreo", "Plan de Muestreo AQL", "AQL Sampling Plan", "ALL", "ISO 2859-1 (ANSI\/ASQ Z1.4) · AQL 1.0–4.0", "Inspección Normal Nivel II. Escalar a Estrecho tras 2 fallos; revertir a Normal tras 5 pases.", "ISO 2859-1 \/ ANSI\/ASQ Z1.4", "Protocolo interno; no requiere instrumento específico", "Warp: AQL 1.0 · Weft: AQL 2.5 · Packaging: AQL 4.0", "ISO 2859-1 \/ sablabs.net" ] ] }, "WCM_ENSAYOS": { "total_rows": 37, "total_cols": "I", "preview": [ [ "ESTÁNDAR DE ENSAYOS — COMPLETO · MÉTODOS · NORMAS · EQUIPO · UMBRALES", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Fuentes verificadas: mapofsciences.com · instron.com (ASTM D2256) · ISO 2060\/2061\/2062\/5688\/16549 · ASTM D2259\/D4974\/D3418\/D3108\/D6720 · Uster Technologies · OEKO-TEX · textileschool.com · darongtester.com · sablabs.net", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Norma \/ Estándar", "Ensayo ES", "Test EN", "Procedimiento Resumido", "Equipo \/ Instrumentación", "Valores Clave \/ Benchmarks", "Umbrales de Aceptación", "Dónde", "Criticidad" ], [ " FÍSICO\/MECÁNICO | PHYSICAL\/MECHANICAL", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ISO 2060 \/ ASTM D1907", "Densidad Lineal (Denier\/dtex\/tex)", "Linear Density", "Método gravimétrico: madeja de longitud definida, pesar en balanza analítica", "Devanadora (SDL Atlas YG086E, 1.5m perímetro ±0.1mm, contador electrónico de revoluciones) + Balanza analítica (Mettler Toledo XP205, ±0.01mg)", "10 madejas × 100m @ 20°C±2, 65%HR±4 (ISO 139). Precisión: ±1%.", "±1.5% (AA) → ±4% (C)", "EN PLANTA", "ALTA" ], [ "ISO 2061 \/ ASTM D1423", "Torsión y Dirección (TPM, S\/Z)", "Twist and Direction", "Método destorsión-retorsión: desretorcer bajo pretensión hasta fibras paralelas; luego retorcer hasta longitud original restaurada. T=(T₁+T₂)\/2\/L", "Torsiómetro (Zweigle D302, SDL Atlas M021A). Gauge: 250mm filamento, 500mm estambrado. Pretensión: 0.5 cN\/tex", "20 mediciones por dirección (warp\/weft). Twist factor: αm = TPM × √tex \/ 10", "±3% (AA) → ±10% (C)", "EN PLANTA", "ALTA" ], [ "ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256", "Tenacidad, Alargamiento, Módulo, Trabajo", "Tenacity, Elongation, Modulus", "Método CRE (Constant Rate of Extension): sujetar hilo entre mordazas capstan, extender a velocidad fija hasta rotura. Registrar curva fuerza-extensión completa.", "Textechno Statimat 4U (300 tests\/h, automatizado) · Uster Tensorapid 4\/5 (5000 tests\/h, percentile reporting P0.01) · Instron 6800 con grips 2714-005. Gauge: 500mm filamento \/ 250mm estambrado. Velocidad: 500mm\/min (tiempo rotura 20±3s)", "20 tests mínimo por muestra. Resultados: media, CV%, P0.01, P0.05 (Tensorapid). Bluehill Universal software para Instron.", "Tenacidad: AA>4.2 (FDY) >3.8 (DTY) cN\/dtex. CV% elongación: AA<6%", "LAB EXTERNO", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "ISO 5688 \/ DIN 53840", "Contracción, Estabilidad y Elasticidad del Rizo", "Crimp Properties (CC\/CS\/CE)", "CC: medir longitud rizada (0.001 cN\/dtex) vs extendida (0.05 cN\/dtex). CS: CC antes y después de 30 min @ 100°C. CE: carga cíclica.", "Dinamómetro con pretensión controlada + baño de agua a 100°C. Pretensión estándar: 0.001 cN\/dtex (rizado) y 0.05 cN\/dtex (extendido)", "CC% = (L_extendida - L_rizada) \/ L_extendida × 100. CS% = CC_después\/CC_antes × 100. AA: CC ±2%, CS >85%.", "CC ±2% (AA) \/ CS >85% (AA) \/ CE >85% (AA)", "LAB EXTERNO", "ALTA" ], [ "ASTM D6720 \/ ISO 20932", "Extensión y Recuperación Elástica (ELS\/T400)", "Elastic Extension and Recovery", "10 ciclos a 80% elongación @ 100mm\/min. Medir set permanente tras 5to ciclo. Aplica a elastano desnudo y hilados cubiertos.", "CRE tester (Instron 3400 Series + extensómetro) · Uster Tensorapid adaptado", "Permanent set <5% para compresión deportiva, <3% para hosiery (mapofsciences.com). ELR: % longitud recuperada.", "ELR: AA>95% \/ A>90% \/ B>80%. Set permanente: AA<5%", "LAB EXTERNO", "MUY ALTA (ELS)" ], [ " UNIFORMIDAD \/ USTER | UNIFORMITY \/ USTER TESTING", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ISO 16549 \/ Uster Tester 6", "CVm% — Variación de Masa (Evenness)", "Mass Variation CVm%", "Sensor capacitivo (para fibras) u óptico (para filamentos oscuros): hilo pasa por ranura (8mm×1mm), señal proporcional a masa. 4000 Hz a 400m\/min = 600 mediciones\/m.", "Uster Tester 6 (instrumento de referencia mundial para benchmarking). Alternativa: Premier Tenso LAB (sensor óptico, 200m\/min). Velocidad: 400m\/min, longitud test: 1km mínimo.", "USTER Statistics 2023 benchmarks PET flat filament 167dtex: 5th%ile≤0.50%, 25th%ile≤0.80%, 50th%ile≤1.20%. Objetivo warp: ≤25th%ile. Weft: ≤50th%ile.", "AA: ≤0.7% (5th %ile) · A: ≤1.0% (25th) · B: ≤1.5% (50th)", "LAB EXTERNO", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "ISO 16549 \/ Uster", "Lugares Finos (-50%) y Gruesos (+50%) por km", "Thin\/Thick Places per km", "Umbral -50%: masa <50% del promedio → punto de rotura potencial en warp. Umbral +50%: masa >150% → barras en tejido. Defectos periódicos (misma longitud de onda) son FAR más dañinos que aleatorios.", "Uster Tester 6 (reportado simultáneamente con CVm%). Premier iQ Air Elite 3 para detección de fibra extraña.", "USTER Statistics 2023 PET FDY: thin 5th%ile=2\/km, 25th=8\/km. Thick 5th=5\/km, 25th=20\/km. Defecto periódico = chimenea en espectrograma → investigar causa mecánica.", "Thin: AA<2\/km (5th%ile) · Thick: AA<5\/km (5th%ile)", "LAB EXTERNO", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "Uster Tester 6 \/ ISO 13938", "Vellosidad H (Hairiness Index)", "Hairiness Index", "Uster H = longitud total fibras que sobresalen por cm @ referencia 1mm del cuerpo del hilo (sensor óptico láser diodo). sH% = CV% de H a lo largo del hilo → indica problemas de husillo\/traveller. Zweigle G567: cuenta S1>1mm, S2>2mm, S3>3mm.", "Uster Tester 6 sensor óptico (simultáneo con CVm). Zweigle G567 (conteo S1\/S2\/S3 separados). S3 >200 por 100m = umbral mínimo riesgo pilling. S3 >500 = pilling severo en test Martindale.", "USTER Statistics 2023 H index Ne30 ring cotton: 5th%ile H=4.2, 25th=5.8, 95th=8.5. Compact ring: 25th%ile H=2.5–3.5 (40–60% menor que ring estándar). Filamento FDY: <1.5 (objetivo).", "FDY: AA<1.5 · DTY: AA<2.5", "LAB EXTERNO", "ALTA" ], [ "Uster Classimat 5 \/ Uster Tester 6", "Espectrograma y Classimat", "Spectrogram and Classimat", "Espectrograma: análisis espectral de variación de masa → chimenea (peak) en longitud de onda X indica defecto mecánico en rodillo de circunferencia X → barré periódico en tejido. Classimat: matriz 23 clases (12 gruesos A1–D4, 4 finos I1–I4). Tasa de corte óptima: 80–120 cortes\/100km → elimina 95% defectos visibles manteniendo eficiencia >92%.", "Uster Tester 6 (espectrograma integrado). Uster Classimat 5. USTER EXPERT software para optimización de tasas de corte. Instalado en máquinas de devanado para 100% inspección en línea.", "Chimenea principal en espectrograma = defecto mecánico identificable. Warp: mínimo Grado B3 appearance board (ASTM D2255). Appearance board: 120 vueltas × 12mm, D65 @ 1000 lux, 600mm distancia.", "AA: espectro limpio · C: chimenea = rechazo", "LAB EXTERNO", "MUY ALTA" ], [ " TÉRMICO | THERMAL PROPERTIES", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ASTM D2259 \/ ISO 6840", "Contracción Agua Ebullición (CAE)", "Boiling Water Shrinkage (BWS)", "Madeja de longitud conocida (1m marcada) suspendida en agua a 100°C durante 30 min bajo pretensión de 0.05 cN\/dtex. Medir longitud después de secar al aire.", "Baño de agua con control de temperatura (100°C ±0.5°C). Devanadora para madejas. Regla metálica calibrada ±0.5mm. Todo el proceso: 45 min.", "VARIACIÓN CONO A CONO MÁS CRÍTICA QUE EL VALOR ABSOLUTO. Cualquier cono >±1.5% de la media del lote = rechazo. Ensayar mínimo 10 conos por lote. FDY std: 5–9%. DTY 2H: 2–5%. DTY 1H: 6–10%.", "Lote CV: AA<0.5% · A<1.0% · B<1.5%", "EN PLANTA", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "ASTM D4974 \/ ISO 7222", "Contracción Calor Seco (CCS) @ 160°C y 180°C", "Dry Heat Shrinkage (DHS)", "Madeja suspendida en horno seco bajo pretensión de 0.05 cN\/dtex durante 30 min a temperatura especificada (160°C y\/o 180°C). Medir % de reducción de longitud.", "Horno de laboratorio con circulación de aire (Heraeus UT 6200, ±1°C) + devanadora + regla. Test a 160°C y 180°C para caracterización completa.", "PET FDY std @ 160°C: 3–7%. @ 180°C: 5–12%. PET low-shrink: 0.5–3% \/ 2–6%. PA6 @ 160°C: 4–8%. PA6.6: 3–6%. Estentora típica PET: 170–190°C → DCS @ 180°C es el parámetro crítico.", "AA @ 160°C: <3% (FDY) · AA @ 180°C: <6%", "EN PLANTA", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "ASTM D3418 \/ ISO 11357", "Tg y Punto de Fusión (DSC)", "Glass Transition & Melting Point (DSC)", "Calorimetría Diferencial de Barrido: rampa de temperatura 10°C\/min, registrar flujo de calor. Tg = inflexión. Tm = pico endotérmico.", "DSC (Mettler Toledo DSC3, TA Q2000, Netzsch DSC 214 Polyma). Crisol de aluminio hermético, N₂ como gas de purga.", "PET: Tg=70–80°C, Tm=255–260°C. CD-PET: Tm≈240°C (menor por modificación). PA6: Tm≈215°C. PA6.6: Tm≈260°C. ELS degrada >150°C. PET dyeing at 130°C (above Tg=80°C) required for dye penetration.", "AA: DSC certificado · A: DSC requerido", "LAB EXTERNO", "ALTA (disputes)" ], [ " SUPERFICIE Y FRICCIÓN | SURFACE AND FRICTION", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ASTM D2257 \/ Soxhlet", "Aceite de Ensimaje (OPU %)", "Oil Pick-Up \/ Spin Finish", "Extracción Soxhlet con hexano: pesada muestra seca antes\/después de extracción 4h. OPU% = (peso extraído \/ peso seco) × 100. Alternativa rápida: RMN (resonancia magnética nuclear).", "Extractor Soxhlet (Büchi B-811 Full Glass) + balanza analítica. NMR: Oxford Instruments MQC. 100ml hexano, 4h extracción.", "POY: 0.3–0.6%. FDY warp: 0.8–1.2%. DTY: 2.5–4.5%. NFY: 0.6–1.0%. NTY: 2.0–4.0%. Warp filamento tejido: óptimo 0.3–0.6% OWF. Demasiado bajo: estática y roturas. Demasiado alto: contaminación telar.", "AA: ±0.2% de spec · A: ±0.3% · B: ±0.5%", "LAB EXTERNO", "ALTA" ], [ "ASTM D3108 \/ Rothschild", "Fricción Hilo-Metal (μ-YTM)", "Yarn-to-Metal Friction (μ-YTM)", "Método capstan: hilo envuelto 180° alrededor de pasador de acero pulido @ velocidad definida (200–1000m\/min). Medir tensión entrada (T₁) y salida (T₂). μ = ln(T₂\/T₁) \/ π.", "Medidor de fricción Rothschild F-Meter · SDL Atlas Friction Tester. Pasador de acero inoxidable pulido (Ra<0.1μm). Velocidades múltiples para caracterizar régimen de lubrificación.", "PET @ 200m\/min: μ=0.18–0.25 (disminuye a 0.12–0.18 @ 1000m\/min = régimen hidrodinámico). PA: μ=0.15–0.25. UHMWPE: μ=0.06–0.10 (muy bajo). Dyneema: μ=0.06–0.10. Consistencia entre conos MÁS importante que valor absoluto.", "AA: ±0.02 · A: ±0.03 · B: ±0.05", "LAB EXTERNO", "ALTA" ], [ "ASTM D3412 \/ SDL Atlas", "Fricción Hilo-Hilo (μ-YTY)", "Yarn-to-Yarn Friction (μ-YTY)", "SDL Atlas Friction Tester, hilo-hilo a 45° wrap, 10cm\/min. Knitting estándar: μ<0.3. High-speed warp knitting (3000 courses\/min): μ<0.2.", "SDL Atlas Friction Tester · Rothschild adaptado para YTY", "PET: μ 0.30–0.50. PA: μ 0.25–0.45. Valores más altos que YTM porque no hay lubricación hydrodynamic.", "AA: ±0.03 · A: ±0.05", "LAB EXTERNO", "MEDIA" ], [ "DIN 66132 \/ aguja", "Conteo de Nips de Intermingling (nips\/m)", "Intermingling Nip Count", "Método de aguja (hook-probe): pasar aguja a través del hilo bajo tensión, contar puntos de resistencia en 1 metro. 5 repeticiones\/cono. Alternativa electrónica: Rothschild F-Meter con accesorio intermingling.", "Aguja calibrada (Ø 0.3mm) + bastidor de tensión. Rothschild F-Meter con sensor electrónico de nips (conteo automático). USTER puede medir intermingling.", "NIM: <30 nips\/m. SIM ligero: 30–60. SIM estándar: 60–100. HIM: 100–150. Muy HIM: >150. Warp sin encolado: mínimo 60–80 nips\/m. Knitting: 20–40 nips\/m.", "AA: ±10 nips\/m · A: ±15 · B: ±25", "EN PLANTA", "ALTA" ], [ " QUÍMICO \/ CUMPLIMIENTO | CHEMICAL \/ COMPLIANCE", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "OEKO-TEX Standard 100", "Certificación OEKO-TEX 100", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100", "Test >1000 sustancias dañinas. Red de 35,000+ empresas certificadas globalmente. Renovación anual. Límites revisados anualmente. Módulo: costes distribuidos por etapa productiva.", "Red de laboratorios OEKO-TEX acreditados (Hohenstein, TESTEX, etc.)", "pH: 4.0–8.5 (Clase I bebé: 4.0–7.5). Formaldehído: <20 ppm (Clase I). Metales pesados extraíbles: Pb<0.2ppm, Cd<0.1ppm, Cr(VI)<1ppm. Colorantes azo: prohibidos (aminasy aromáticas específicas).", "Clase II para contacto piel directo (ropa adulto)", "LAB CERTIFICADO", "OBLIGATORIO" ], [ "AATCC 81 \/ ISO 3071", "pH del Extracto Acuoso", "Aqueous Extract pH", "10g hilo en 100ml agua destilada, hervir 30 min, enfriar a 25°C, medir pH inmediatamente. Rápido, bajo costo, alto valor informativo.", "Medidor de pH calibrado (Mettler Toledo SevenEasy, Hanna HI2211). Calibrar con buffer pH 4.0 y 7.0 antes de cada sesión.", "Target: 4.5–7.5 (general). Sensible a piel: 4.5–6.5. Alarma: <4.0 o >8.5 → rechazar. Fuera de 4.0–8.5 = rechazo inmediato.", "AA: 4.5–6.5 · A: 4.5–7.5 · C: fuera de 4.0–8.5", "EN PLANTA", "ALTA" ], [ "AATCC 16 \/ ISO 105-B02", "Resistencia UV", "UV Resistance", "Cámara de arco Xenón (simula espectro solar). Muestras expuestas junto con lanas azules de referencia (escala 1–8). Evaluar cambio de color\/resistencia según escala de grises ISO 105-A02.", "SDL Atlas Weather-Ometer (Ci3000, Ci4000) · Q-Lab Q-Sun Xenon. Filtro Daylight con cuarzo interior\/borosilicato.", "Ropa exterior: ≥4\/8 Lana Azul. Aplicaciones técnicas\/rendimiento: ≥5\/8. PET: intrínsecamente estable. PA6.6: moderada. ELS estándar: degrada rápidamente.", "AA: ≥5\/8 · A: ≥4\/8 · B: ≥3\/8", "LAB EXTERNO", "SEGÚN APLICACIÓN" ], [ "AATCC 162 \/ ISO 105-E03", "Resistencia al Cloro", "Chlorine Resistance", "Inmersión en solución clorada (20 ppm Cl libre, pH 7.5) durante ciclos definidos. Evaluar pérdida de propiedades mecánicas y cambio de color (ΔE).", "Baño de cloro controlado. Espectrofotómetro para ΔE.", "Ropa de baño: ΔE≤3 tras 25 ciclos. ELS estándar: degrada. Lycra Xtra Life, Creora Lux, Hyosung Hi-Clo: resistentes. Especificar grado explícitamente para swim.", "AA: ΔE≤2 · A: ΔE≤3 · B: ΔE≤5", "LAB EXTERNO", "BAÑO\/ACTIVO" ], [ "EU REACH \/ ECHA", "Declaración SVHC REACH", "REACH SVHC Declaration", "Lista SVHC: >240 Sustancias de Muy Alta Preocupación (actualización continua ECHA). Declaración escrita del proveedor que ninguna sustancia supera 0.1% w\/w.", "Laboratorio químico acreditado para verificación. Declaración escrita obligatoria por lote.", "PAHs <0.1ppm (sensible a piel), Ftalatos <0.05% (productos infantiles), PFAS lista extendida, Bisfenol A <0.02%. Requerido para mercado UE y toda cadena de suministro de marcas globales.", "Declaración completa por lote", "LAB CERTIFICADO", "OBLIGATORIO (UE\/Marcas)" ], [ " MUESTREO Y CONTROL ENTRANTE | INCOMING INSPECTION AND SAMPLING", "", "", "", "", "", "", "", "" ], [ "ISO 2859-1 \/ ANSI Z1.4", "Plan de Muestreo AQL", "AQL Sampling Plan", "Inspección de atributos: Normal Nivel II. Escalada a Estrecho tras 2 fallos; revertir a Normal tras 5 pases consecutivos. AQL 1.0 para propiedades físicas\/críticas de warp.", "Procedimiento documentado interno. Formularios de inspección.", "Lote 2–90 conos: muestra 13, AQL1.0 Ac=0\/Re=1. Lote 91–280: muestra 32, AQL1.0 Ac=0\/Re=1. Lote 281–500: muestra 50, Ac=1\/Re=2. Lote 501–1200: muestra 80, Ac=1\/Re=2.", "Warp: AQL 1.0 · Weft: AQL 2.5 · Packaging: AQL 4.0", "EN PLANTA", "MUY ALTA" ], [ "ISO 139", "Acondicionamiento Pre-Ensayo", "Pre-Test Conditioning", "OBLIGATORIO: almacenar muestras 24h en cámara de acondicionamiento antes de TODOS los ensayos mecánicos y gravimétricos. PA absorbe hasta 1.8% de humedad → error de peso de hasta 1.8% sin condicionar.", "Cámara de acondicionamiento (20°C ±2°C, 65% HR ±4%). Datalogger temperatura\/humedad.", "Sin acondicionamiento: error de hasta 3% en denier para PA (1.2–1.8% regain @ 65%HR vs 3.0–3.5% @ 85%HR). PET menos crítico (0.2–0.4% regain) pero aun así obligatorio.", "20°C ±2°C · 65% HR ±4% · 24h mínimo", "EN PLANTA", "OBLIGATORIO" ] ] }, "WCM_FUENTES": { "total_rows": 52, "total_cols": "E", "preview": [ [ "FUENTES DE REFERENCIA · ORGANISMOS DE NORMALIZACIÓN · INSTRUMENTACIÓN · GLOSARIO TÉCNICO", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Fuentes primarias verificadas mediante navegación web directa · Junio 2026 · URLs confirmados activos", "", "", "", "" ], [ " ORGANISMOS DE NORMALIZACIÓN | STANDARDS BODIES", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Organismo \/ Instrumento \/ Fuente", "Nombre Completo \/ Full Name", "URL \/ Referencia", "Descripción \/ Description", "" ], [ "BISFA", "Bureau International pour la Standardisation des Fibres Artificielles", "https:\/\/bisfa.org", "Terminología y métodos de ensayo para fibras artificiales y sintéticas. Booklets: terminología (2009), propiedades de filamentos, nomenclatura genérica. 40, rue Belliard B–1040 Bruselas.", "" ], [ "ISO TC38", "ISO Technical Committee 38 — Textiles", "https:\/\/www.iso.org", "ISO 2060 (título\/denier) · ISO 2061 (torsión) · ISO 2062 (tensiles) · ISO 5688 (rizo DTY) · ISO 16549 (uniformidad) · ISO 139 (acondicionamiento) · ISO 137 (microscopía) · ISO 11357 (DSC) · ISO 105 (solidez al color)", "" ], [ "ASTM International", "American Society for Testing and Materials", "https:\/\/www.astm.org", "ASTM D2256 (tensiles) · D1907 (denier) · D1423 (torsión) · D3418 (DSC) · D4974 (CCS) · D2259 (CAE) · D3108 (fricción YTM) · D6720 (elastano) · D2255 (appearance board) · D2244 (color CIELAB)", "" ], [ "AATCC", "American Assoc. of Textile Chemists and Colorists", "https:\/\/www.aatcc.org", "AATCC 16 (resistencia UV) · AATCC 81 (pH) · AATCC 134 (estática) · AATCC 162 (resistencia cloro) · AATCC 135 (solidez color lavado)", "" ], [ "DIN", "Deutsches Institut für Normung (German Standards)", "https:\/\/www.din.de", "DIN 53840 · DIN 53866 (rizo, termofijado) · DIN 66132 (cohesión, intermingling)", "" ], [ "OEKO-TEX Association", "International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology", "https:\/\/www.oeko-tex.com", "OEKO-TEX Standard 100: >1000 sustancias · Bluesign: proceso\/química · STeP: producción sostenible · ECO PASSPORT: productos químicos", "" ], [ "Textile Exchange", "Non-profit advancing preferred fiber and materials", "https:\/\/textileexchange.org", "GRS v4.0 (Global Recycled Standard) · RCS v2.0 (Recycled Claim Standard) · BCI (Better Cotton). USTER Statistics publicados bienalmente — 4000+ fábricas, 35 parámetros, 11 categorías de hilo.", "" ], [ "ECHA \/ EU REACH", "European Chemicals Agency — REACH Regulation", "https:\/\/echa.europa.eu", "Lista SVHC: >240 sustancias. Reglamento CE 1907\/2006. Candidata list actualizada 2× por año.", "" ], [ " INSTRUMENTACIÓN CLAVE | KEY INSTRUMENTS", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Organismo \/ Instrumento \/ Fuente", "Nombre Completo \/ Full Name", "URL \/ Referencia", "Descripción \/ Description", "" ], [ "Uster Tester 6", "Uster Technologies AG, Suiza", "https:\/\/www.uster.com", "Instrumento de referencia global para uniformidad. Sensor capacitivo 4000Hz @ 400m\/min. Mide: CVm%, lugares finos\/gruesos, neps, H (hairiness). USTER Statistics: benchmarking percentil 5\/25\/50\/75\/95 de producción mundial.", "" ], [ "Uster Tensorapid 4\/5", "Uster Technologies AG", "https:\/\/www.uster.com", "Ensayo de resistencia a alta velocidad: 5000 tests\/h. Reporting: media, CV%, percentiles P0.01\/P0.05 (frecuencia de puntos débiles). Crítico para control de calidad en producción.", "" ], [ "Uster Classimat 5", "Uster Technologies AG", "https:\/\/www.uster.com", "Clasificación de defectos: 23 clases (A1–D4 gruesos, I1–I4 finos). EXPERT software: optimización tasa de corte. 80–120 cortes\/100km = 95% defectos visuales eliminados.", "" ], [ "Textechno Statimat 4U", "Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH, Alemania", "https:\/\/www.textechno.com", "Ensayo tensil automático: 300 tests\/h. ISO 2062 \/ ASTM D2256. Usado para control de calidad en producción de hilado.", "" ], [ "Instron 6800 Series", "Illinois Tool Works (ITW), USA", "https:\/\/www.instron.com", "Sistema universal de ensayo CRE. ASTM D2256 (hilo tensil). Grips capstan 2714-005. Software Bluehill Universal con método ASTM D2256 precargado.", "" ], [ "Zweigle G567", "Zweigle GmbH, Alemania", "https:\/\/www.zweigle.com", "Medidor de hairiness: cuenta S1 (>1mm), S2 (>2mm), S3 (>3mm) fibras que sobresalen por 100m. S3>200: riesgo pilling. S3>500: pilling severo.", "" ], [ "Rothschild F-Meter", "Rothschild, Suiza", "https:\/\/www.rothschild.ch", "Medidor de fricción y cohesión. YTM, YTY. Accesorio para conteo de nips de intermingling.", "" ], [ "Mettler Toledo DSC3", "Mettler Toledo AG, Suiza", "https:\/\/www.mt.com", "DSC para Tg y Tm. ASTM D3418. Rampa 10°C\/min. Identificación de PA6 vs PA6.6 vs PET.", "" ], [ "SDL Atlas Weather-Ometer", "SDL Atlas, USA", "https:\/\/www.sdlatlas.com", "Cámara de arco Xenón para AATCC 16 \/ ISO 105-B02. Resistencia UV. Ci3000, Ci4000.", "" ], [ " REFERENCIAS TÉCNICAS EN LÍNEA | ONLINE TECHNICAL REFERENCES", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Organismo \/ Instrumento \/ Fuente", "Nombre Completo \/ Full Name", "URL \/ Referencia", "Descripción \/ Description", "" ], [ "mapofsciences.com", "Map of Sciences — Yarn Testing", "https:\/\/mapofsciences.com\/topic?id=Yarn%20Testing", "FUENTE PRINCIPAL: datos numéricos más precisos y más completos sobre parámetros de ensayo de hilo. Incluye USTER Statistics 2023 benchmarks específicos para PET FDY 167dtex, DTY 167dtex, PA6 44dtex. Subtemas: count, twist, evenness, tensile, hairiness, classimat, filament, friction, specialty.", "" ], [ "glyarn.com", "GLYarn — Polyester Filament Yarn Quality Parameters", "https:\/\/www.glyarn.com\/polyester-filament-yarn-quality-parameters-the-specs-that-actually-matter\/", "Perspectiva del comprador. Tablas de especificación estándar (FDY vs DTY vs HT). Cheat sheet de parámetros de calidad. Rangos típicos: tenacidad, alargamiento, contracción. Importancia del finish para equipos de telar.", "" ], [ "instron.com", "Instron — ASTM D2256 Standard", "https:\/\/www.instron.com\/en\/testing-solutions\/astm-standards\/astm-d2256", "Documentación oficial del método ASTM D2256. Setup recomendado: 6800 Series, grips 2714-005, Bluehill Universal. 20s tiempo de rotura estándar. Recomendación CRE.", "" ], [ "sablabs.net", "SAB Labs — Uster Testing Guide", "https:\/\/sablabs.net\/yarn-uster-testing-complete-practical-guide-for-spinning-mills-buyers\/", "Guía práctica del sistema USTER Statistics. Tabla de percentiles: 5%=clase mundial, 25%=muy buena, 50%=promedio, 75%=bajo promedio, 95%=pobre. Aplicación comercial y contractual.", "" ], [ "darongtester.com", "DaRong Tester — Yarn Testing Complete Guide", "https:\/\/darongtester.com\/yarn-testing\/", "Guía completa de ensayos: count, tensil, torsión, uniformidad, hairiness, humedad, fricción. Normas aplicables: ASTM D2256, ISO 2060, ISO 16549, ASTM D1423.", "" ], [ "textileengineering.net", "Textile Engineering — Yarn Properties", "https:\/\/textileengineering.net\/understanding-yarn-properties-for-textile-engineering\/", "Marco teórico de propiedades del hilo: sistemas de título (directo\/indirecto), twist (S\/Z, tipos de cabo), mecánica tensil, uniformidad. Referencias académicas: Hearle, Morton, Lawrence, Saville.", "" ], [ "textileschool.com", "Textile School — ISO, AATCC, ASTM Standards", "https:\/\/www.textileschool.com\/10331\/introduction-to-textile-testing-standards-iso-aatcc-astm\/", "Visión general de las tres organizaciones principales: ISO (global), AATCC (química\/color), ASTM (mecánico\/industrial). Tabla de normas clave por organización. Tendencias: AI, IoT, NDT en ensayos.", "" ], [ "bisfa.org", "BISFA — Bureau International pour la Standardisation des Fibres Artificielles", "https:\/\/bisfa.org\/booklets\/", "Booklets de terminología y métodos de ensayo. Terminología de Fibras Artificiales 2009 (inglés, francés, alemán, italiano, español). Sede: 40, rue Belliard B-1040 Bruselas.", "" ], [ " GLOSARIO TÉCNICO BILINGUAL | TECHNICAL GLOSSARY ES\/EN", "", "", "", "" ], [ "Término ES \/ EN", "Unidad", "Definición Español", "Definition English", "" ], [ "Tenacidad \/ Tenacity", "cN\/dtex o g\/d", "Fuerza de rotura ÷ densidad lineal. Compara resistencia independientemente del grosor. 1 g\/d = 0.8826 cN\/dtex.", "Breaking force ÷ linear density. Strength-to-weight ratio. Standard unit in WCM: cN\/dtex.", "" ], [ "Elongación en Rotura \/ Elongation at Break", "%", "% extensión en el momento de la rotura. Medida con mismo ensayo que tenacidad (ISO 2062 CRE).", "% extension at moment of yarn break. Higher values = more stretchable yarn.", "" ], [ "CVm% \/ CVm%", "%", "Coeficiente de variación de masa a lo largo del hilo (Uster). Principal indicador de barré en tejido.", "Mass variation coefficient along yarn length (Uster). Primary predictor of woven barré.", "" ], [ "CAE \/ BWS (Boiling Water Shrinkage)", "%", "Contracción en agua en ebullición (100°C, 30 min). LA variación de lote a lote es más crítica que el valor absoluto.", "Boiling water shrinkage %. LOT-TO-LOT VARIATION more critical than absolute value.", "" ], [ "CCS \/ DHS (Dry Heat Shrinkage)", "%", "Contracción en calor seco (160°C o 180°C, 30 min). Governa temperatura máxima de trabajo en la rama\/stenter.", "Dry heat shrinkage at specified temperature. Governs maximum stenter temperature.", "" ], [ "SIM \/ HIM \/ NIM", "clasificación", "Slightly\/Highly\/Non-Intermingled. Nivel de entrelazado del filamento. SIM: 30–100 nips\/m. HIM: 100–150+. NIM: <30.", "Intermingling set level. SIM=slightly, HIM=highly, NIM=non. Quantified as nips\/m.", "" ], [ "OPU \/ Spin Finish", "%", "Oil Pick-Up = % aceite de ensimaje sobre peso de fibra. Controla fricción y procesabilidad.", "Oil on weight of fiber. Controls friction, static, and processability.", "" ], [ "dpf \/ dpf", "número", "Denier por filamento = denier total ÷ número de filamentos. Microfibra: dpf<1.0.", "Denier per filament = total denier ÷ filament count. Microfiber: dpf<1.0.", "" ], [ "Tg \/ Glass Transition Temperature", "°C", "Temperatura de transición vítrea. PET Tg≈70–80°C. Por encima: absorción de colorante disperso posible.", "Glass transition temp. Above Tg: disperse dye can penetrate PET fiber.", "" ], [ "HSE \/ Heat Set Efficiency", "%", "Eficiencia de termofijado. % de rizo permanentemente fijado. 2H DTY: >85%. Medida por DIN 53866.", "% of crimp permanently fixed. 2H DTY >85%. Key for dyehouse dimensional stability.", "" ], [ "GRS \/ RCS", "certificación", "Global Recycled Standard \/ Recycled Claim Standard. Textile Exchange. GRS = cadena de custodia + criterios sociales. RCS = solo cadena de custodia.", "GRS=chain of custody + social criteria. RCS=chain of custody only. Both require transaction certificate per lot.", "" ], [ "SVHC \/ SVHC", "lista sustancias", "Substances of Very High Concern (EU REACH). >240 sustancias. Declarar si >0.1% w\/w en artículo.", "Substances of Very High Concern. >240 listed. Declare if >0.1% in any article.", "" ], [ "ΔE \/ Delta E", "unidad color", "Diferencia de color en espacio CIELAB. ΔE<1 imperceptible. ΔE 1–2 perceptible con esfuerzo. ΔE>2 claramente visible en tejido.", "Color difference in CIELAB space. ΔE<1 imperceptible. ΔE>2 clearly visible in fabric.", "" ], [ "AQL \/ AQL", "nivel calidad aceptable", "Acceptable Quality Level. ISO 2859-1. AQL 1.0 = warp crítico. AQL 2.5 = trama estándar. Inspección Normal Nivel II.", "Acceptable Quality Level. ISO 2859-1. AQL 1.0=critical warp. 2.5=standard weft. Normal Level II inspection.", "" ] ] } }, "notas_diseno": { "ND": { "total_rows": 1097, "total_cols": "CE", "preview": [ [ "Codigo Nota de diseño", "Peso gr\/m2", "Ligamento" ], [ "ND1", "160", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND2", "143", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND3", "130", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND4", "165", "SARGA 2\/1" ], [ "ND5", "163", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND6", "168", "SATIN DE 4" ], [ "ND7", "147", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND8", "98", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND9", "100", "QUEBRADO" ], [ "ND10", "120", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND11", "136", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND12", "161", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND13", "130", "QUEBRADO" ], [ "ND14", "240", "RIPSTOP" ], [ "ND15", "100", "DOBBY" ], [ "ND16", "130", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND16B", "130", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND17", "186", "TWILL 2\/1" ], [ "ND18", "216", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND19", "140", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND20", "248", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND21", "195", "DOBLE TELA" ], [ "ND22", "293", "TWILL 2\/1" ], [ "ND23", "65", "TWILL 2\/1" ], [ "ND24", "123", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND25", "120", "TAFETAN" ], [ "ND26", "147", "TAFETAN" ], [ 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