--- Sheet: Legend & Instructions --- LEGEND — TESTING REQUIREMENTS MATRIX Unnamed: 1 Unnamed: 2 0 How to read the brand columns in the Testing Specifications sheet NaN NaN 1 NaN NaN NaN 2 REQUIRED Brand explicitly requires this test at bulk production stage. A passing report is mandatory before shipment. NaN 3 OPTIONAL Test is relevant for certain product types, fabric categories, or functional claims — not universally required. NaN 4 NaN Not applicable for this brand's product range or explicitly excluded. NaN 5 NOT SPECIFIED The brand's sourced documentation does not specify a requirement for this test. Does not mean not required — consult brand's full testing manual. NaN 6 SEE NOTES Requirement is conditional or complex — read the note in the cell for details. NaN 7 NaN NaN NaN 8 NaN NaN NaN 9 Brand Document Source Key Focus 10 Columbia / MHW MR_Color_TechnicalColorManual_June_2025.pdf (V.6 2025) Colorfastness requirements explicitly tabulated. Performance testing per RMM/RMTL (separate document). Two-stage approval: Lab Dip (ALD) → Production Standard (APS). DEcmc tolerances: ALD/APS ≤1.0 to DCS; BRS ≤0.3 to APS. 11 Fanatics Fanatics_Traceability_Policy_V2_April_2025.pdf Supply chain traceability and chain of custody ONLY. No performance test thresholds specified. Key requirements: 4-tier supplier mapping, chain of custody docs within 7 days of request, fiber origin certification, GRS/scope certificates for sustainability claims. 12 Alo Yoga RMID_MANUAL_V2_1_April_2025.pdf 14-step fabric development process. Testing via SGS or accredited 3rd party. Full package testing on black bulk yardage per Care Code and end-use (loose/tight fit). Thresholds in separate Alo Testing Manual. Heat Transfer testing explicitly required. Marginal acceptance possible for performance (not RSL). 13 VF Corp / TNF VF_RSL_Testing_Factory_boarding_FY2026_ENG.pdf Formal Product Stewardship framework. RSL testing annually — NON-NEGOTIABLE. Performance testing per each brand's individual manual. Two stages: SMS + Bulk. Via Interlink platform. VF nominated labs only. Max 2 re-tests. CAP required for RSL/Product Safety failures. PFC compliance via CHEM-IQ STA. --- Sheet: Fabric Specifications --- SYNTHETIC WOVEN FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS — MASTER FRAMEWORK Unnamed: 1 Unnamed: 2 Unnamed: 3 Unnamed: 4 Unnamed: 5 Unnamed: 6 Unnamed: 7 Unnamed: 8 Unnamed: 9 Unnamed: 10 Unnamed: 11 Unnamed: 12 Unnamed: 13 Unnamed: 14 0 Covers: Polyester (PES) · Nylon/Polyamide (PA) · Elastane (EA) — Pillars: Commercial Specifications | Technical Specifications NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 1 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 2 Pillar # Attribute Description Unit / System Min Value Max Value Possible Value 1 Possible Value 2 Possible Value 3 Possible Value 4 Possible Value 5 Possible Value 6 Common Combinations Industry Standards / Notes 3 ▌ PILLAR 1: COMMERCIAL SPECIFICATIONS — Marketability, Aesthetics, Sourcing & Compliance NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 4 COMMERCIAL 1 Fabric Classification & Name The standard trade/commercial name that identifies the fabric construction and aesthetic character. Drives design expectations, sourcing conversations, and catalog communication across all teams. Trade Name — — Taffeta Oxford Ripstop Microfiber Chiffon Georgette / Crepe Ripstop + DWR finish; Taffeta + Cire calendering; Softshell + fleece laminate; Microfiber + peach finish No universal ISO standard for naming; names are trade conventions. Clarify construction details (weave + weight + finish) to avoid ambiguity between mills. 5 COMMERCIAL 2 Fiber Composition & Blend The exact fiber content by percentage. Determines dyeing method, hand-feel, stretch behavior, sustainability certifications, care instructions, and end-use performance. % by weight — — 100% Polyester (PES) 100% Nylon 6 100% Nylon 6.6 90% Nylon / 10% Elastane 88% Poly / 12% Elastane rPET (Recycled PES) / Econyl (Recycled Nylon) 100% Nylon + bare elastane for swimwear; rPET + C0 DWR for sustainability compliance; Nylon 6.6 preferred for higher abrasion applications ISO 2076 / EN ISO 1833 for fiber identification. Declare recycled content for GRS. Blends above 15% elastane require elastane-specific seam slippage testing. 6 COMMERCIAL 3 Weave Structure Type The interlacing pattern of warp and weft yarns that determines fabric stability, tear strength, hand, and visual appearance. Critical for pricing (more complex = higher cost). Weave Type — — Plain Weave 2/1 or 3/1 Twill Ripstop (grid reinforced) Dobby (geometric repeat) Jacquard (complex figure) Satin / Sateen (5-8 shaft) Plain weave + ripstop grid for lightweight packable shells; Satin + high thread count for luxury linings; Dobby + DWR for technical outerwear Ripstop grid sizes specified as WxH mm (e.g., 2×2mm, 5×5mm). For Jacquard, clarify lift repeat and color count — impacts loom setup cost significantly. 7 COMMERCIAL 4 Weave — Ripstop Grid Size For ripstop fabrics only: the dimensions (in mm) of the reinforcing grid formed by heavier interlaced yarns. Smaller grids = stronger, denser; larger grids = lighter, more packable. mm (W × H) 2 10 2×2 mm 3×3 mm 4×4 mm 5×5 mm 7×7 mm 10×10 mm 2×2mm with 20D nylon for ultra-light shelters; 5×5mm with 70D poly for luggage; often paired with silicone or PU coating Grid size is a structural/engineering spec — must appear on mill spec sheet. Inconsistent grid sizing across production lots is a common quality defect. 8 COMMERCIAL 5 Fabric Weight Weight per unit area. The single most important commercial attribute for classification. Drives end-use suitability, cost, shipping weight, and minimum-order economics. GSM / oz·yd² 20 1000 Ultra-light/Downproof: 20–50 GSM Lightweight: 50–100 GSM Midweight: 100–175 GSM Midweight+: 175–250 GSM Heavyweight: 250–500 GSM Technical/Luggage: 500–1000 GSM 20–40 GSM: downproof linings, ultralight wind jackets; 70–120 GSM: active/sportswear shells; 200–300 GSM: bags, upholstery; 600–1000 GSM: luggage/cases ISO 3801 / ASTM D3776. Weight must be measured after finishing (not greige weight). Tolerances typically ±5% on delivered goods. Convert: 1 oz/yd² = 33.9 GSM. 9 COMMERCIAL 6 Fabric Width — Total Full loom width from selvedge to selvedge. Used for logistics and yield calculations. Wider fabrics generally improve cutting efficiency. inches / cm 57 120 57"/144cm 58"/147cm 59"/150cm 60"/152cm 72"/183cm 110"/280cm (home textiles) Standard apparel: 57–60"; technical/outdoor: 58–60"; wide-width home textiles: 110"; industrial rolls: up to 120" Always confirm with mill — actual delivered width often varies ±0.5". Extra-wide (110"+) typically woven on specialized rapier or air-jet looms. 10 COMMERCIAL 7 Fabric Width — Cuttable Usable width after removing selvedges. The figure used for marker making and yield calculations. Typically 1–3" less than total width. inches / cm 55 118 55"/140cm 56"/142cm 57"/145cm 58"/147cm 70"/178cm 108"/274cm Plan markers on cuttable width, not total width. For woven with tight selvedge (e.g., taffeta), cuttable can be 2–3" less than total Critical for cost-per-meter calculations. Align with cutting room CAD system. JIS L 1096 / ASTM D3774 for width measurement. 11 COMMERCIAL 8 Color Application Method The dyeing or printing technology used to apply color. Determines achievable color range, fastness levels, process compatibility with fiber, and cost. Process Type — — Disperse Dye (PES — standard) Acid Dye (Nylon/PA) Cationic / CDP (modified PES) Digital Sublimation Print Rotary Screen Print Heat Transfer Print 100% Poly → disperse dye; Nylon → acid dye; Nylon/Elastane blend → acid dye at reduced temp; CDP Poly → cationic dye for deeper shades; sportswear allover prints → digital sublimation Nylon acid dyeing requires pH control (pH 4–5.5). Disperse dye sublimation risk on PES — test fastness to ISO 105-P01. CDP enables two-tone effects with regular PES in same fabric. 12 COMMERCIAL 9 Aesthetic / Surface Finish Post-weaving mechanical or chemical treatments that alter the surface appearance and hand-feel. A key differentiator at the design level and affects price significantly. Finish Type — — Cire / Calendered (high-gloss) Peach / Brushed (suede-like) Embossed (textured pattern) Crushed / Wrinkled Foil Printed Flock (velvet texture) Cire + taffeta base for luxury linings; Peach finish + microfiber for soft shell outer; Embossed + satin for decorative; Flock + tricot backing for trim Cire calendering uses heat + pressure — alters breathability. Peach finish reduces abrasion resistance (re-test after finishing). Embossing must be specified as repeat size in mm. 13 COMMERCIAL 10 MOQ — Minimum Order Quantity The minimum yardage or kilogram quantity per color/style a mill will accept per order. Directly impacts product development economics and inventory risk. meters / kg 300 10000 300–500m (sampling / small brands) 500–1,000m (mid-tier brands) 1,000–3,000m (sportswear brands) 3,000–5,000m (mass market) 5,000–10,000m (commodity textile) By kg: 100–500kg standard Mills with wide-width looms (110") often have higher MOQ. Recycled / GRS-certified fabrics typically higher MOQ. Sampling MOQ usually 50–100m at premium price. MOQ is negotiable with long-term vendor relationships. Some mills offer lab dip / strike-off at 5–10m. Confirm MOQ separately for reorders vs. new developments. 14 COMMERCIAL 11 MCQ — Minimum Color Quantity The minimum yardage per colorway within an order. A fabric may have a low MOQ but a high MCQ, forcing color consolidation in buy planning. meters 100 3000 100–200m (custom developed) 200–500m (small program) 500–1,000m (standard) 1,000–2,000m (large program) 2,000–3,000m (commodity color) N/A (stock colors only) MCQ drives color count decisions in seasonal range planning. Stock-dyed (available in standard colors) fabrics have no MCQ but limit color choice. Distinguish MCQ from MOQ clearly in supplier contracts. Some mills aggregate colors to meet MOQ even if MCQ is lower. 15 COMMERCIAL 12 Lead Time Time from purchase order confirmation to ex-factory shipment. Drives seasonal calendar planning, raw material commitment, and working capital requirements. Calendar weeks 4 24 4–6 weeks (stock fabric, no dye) 6–10 weeks (stock greige + dye) 10–14 weeks (custom greige + dye + finish) 14–18 weeks (Jacquard / complex custom) 18–24 weeks (new development + sampling) 2–4 weeks (local / nearshore) DWR finishing adds 1–2 weeks. GRS / bluesign certification audit adds 2–4 weeks first time. Air freight can compress by 1–2 weeks at additional cost. Lead time clock typically starts at fabric approval (lab dip / strike-off sign-off). Build lab dip time (2–3 weeks) before LT clock in critical path. 16 COMMERCIAL 13 Target FOB Price Range Free-on-board cost per linear meter at origin port. Benchmarks vary significantly by fiber, construction complexity, weight, and country of origin. USD per linear meter 0.4 25 $0.40–$1.00 (commodity PES plain) $1.00–$2.50 (standard sportswear) $2.50–$5.00 (technical / coated) $5.00–$10.00 (Jacquard / premium) $10.00–$18.00 (rPET / certified) $18.00–$25.00+ (ultra-tech / laminate) Nylon typically 15–30% premium over equivalent PES. rPET adds ~$0.20–0.50/m. TPU laminate adds $1.50–4.00/m. Heavier weight = lower price per meter but higher per-garment cost. Pricing is FOB China / Taiwan / Vietnam unless stated. C&F, CIF pricing adds freight + insurance. Always confirm price at agreed width — wider = higher yield = better value. 17 COMMERCIAL 14 Country of Origin The country where the fabric is woven and finished. Affects import duties, trade compliance, raw material traceability, and sustainability story. Country — — China (PRC) Taiwan Vietnam South Korea Indonesia / Thailand Turkey / Portugal (nearshore EU) China dominates volume + Jacquard; Taiwan: high-tech Nylon/Spandex; Vietnam: growing mid-tier; Korea: premium performance; Turkey/Portugal for EU nearshore with shorter lead times Country of origin subject to customs rules of origin (substantial transformation). Verify fiber origin for USMCA / EUDR compliance. China subject to Section 301 tariffs for US import. 18 COMMERCIAL 15 Sustainability — Recycled Content Use of post-consumer or post-industrial recycled fiber. rPET from bottles, Econyl from fishing nets. Requires chain-of-custody certification for brand claims. Certification — — Conventional (no recycled content) rPET (recycled PES from bottles) Econyl® (recycled PA6 from fishing nets) Repreve® (branded rPET) Post-Industrial Recycled (PIR) Blended Recycled + Virgin rPET replaces virgin PES at same specs; Econyl replaces Nylon 6 — require GRS cert for brand claims; blended rPET + virgin may not qualify for GRS (check threshold rules) GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification required for recycled content claims. Min 20% recycled content for GRS blended claim; 95%+ for GRS 100 claim. Audited by Control Union, SCS, etc. 19 COMMERCIAL NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 20 ▌ PILLAR 2: TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS — Mill Engineering & Construction Parameters NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 21 TECHNICAL 1 Yarn Count — Warp Warp yarn linear density expressed in Denier (D) or Decitex (dtex). Lower denier = finer yarn = lighter, smoother fabric. Warp yarns bear the most tension on the loom. Denier (D) / dtex 10 1000 10D–30D (ultra-fine microfiber) 30D–70D (lightweight performance) 70D–150D (standard / mid-weight) 150D–300D (mid-heavy bags/upholstery) 300D–600D (heavy duty) 600D–1000D (luggage / ballistic) 20D warp + 20D weft for downproof taffeta; 70D warp + 70D weft for standard ripstop; 300D warp + 600D weft for luggage fabric; high-denier warp compensates for lower weft strength 1D = 1g per 9,000m. Convert: dtex = D × 1.1. Filament count (F) must be stated alongside: 70D/72F = 70 denier with 72 individual filaments. ISO 1973 / ASTM D1907. 22 TECHNICAL 2 Yarn Count — Weft Weft (filling) yarn linear density. Can differ from warp to create directional weight distribution, texture, or cost optimization. Weft is inserted by the shuttle/rapier. Denier (D) / dtex 10 1000 10D–30D (ultra-fine) 30D–70D (lightweight) 70D–150D (standard) 150D–300D (mid-heavy) 300D–600D (heavy duty) 600D–1000D (luggage) Warp and weft often matched at same denier for balanced weaves; heavier weft than warp used in certain bag fabrics for fill weight; lighter weft than warp for drape optimization For elastic fabrics, elastane is typically in the weft direction only (horizontal stretch). Specifying filament count (F) for weft is equally critical for surface smoothness. 23 TECHNICAL 3 Yarn Filament Count Number of individual continuous filaments bundled within a single yarn. More filaments = finer, softer, silkier hand-feel; fewer filaments = coarser, more structured. Filaments (F) 1 288 Monofilament (1F) — stiff, wiry Low: 12–36F — standard performance Mid: 48–72F — soft-hand sportswear High: 96–144F — microfiber / peach finish Ultra: 144–288F — ultra-microfiber Note as: 70D/72F, 50D/144F, etc. 70D/72F: standard nylon ripstop; 50D/144F: fine microfiber for peach finish; 150D/288F: ultra-microfiber for brushed softshell; monofilament used for sieve/filter fabrics Microfiber = <1 dpf (denier per filament). Calculate dpf: dpf = Denier ÷ Filament count. E.g., 50D/144F = 0.35 dpf (microfiber range). ISO 2076 terminology applies. 24 TECHNICAL 4 Yarn Type & Extrusion Method The manufacturing process used to produce the yarn. Determines surface character, luster, bulk, elasticity, and dyeability of the fabric. Yarn Type — — FDY — Fully Drawn Yarn (flat, smooth, lustrous) DTY — Draw Textured Yarn (crimped, soft, bulk) ATY / Taslan — Air Textured Yarn (irregular, matte, sporty) POY — Partially Oriented Yarn (precursor to DTY/FDY) HTY — High Tenacity Yarn (for strength/ballistic) Microfiber — sub-1 dpf, ultra-fine FDY for linings and high-gloss taffeta; DTY for softshell outer and sportswear; ATY for matte outdoor/workwear; HTY for luggage and ballistic-grade panels FDY = highest luster, least bulk; DTY = most common for apparel; ATY = most matte, highest bulk; POY not used in finished fabrics directly. Specify in mill yarn spec sheet. 25 TECHNICAL 5 Elastane Specification — Denier Denier of the bare elastane (Spandex/Lycra) yarn used in stretch fabrics. Higher denier = more power/recovery. Must be specified separately from the core yarn. Denier (D) 15 280 15D–20D (light swim / lingerie) 20D–40D (standard activewear) 40D–70D (performance / compression) 70D–140D (heavy power stretch) 140D–280D (industrial / brace) NaN 20D elastane + 70D Nylon 6 for swimwear; 40D elastane + 150D PES DTY for yoga/leggings; 70D elastane + 280D nylon for medical compression Elastane content by weight typically 5–30%. Lycra® (Invista), Roica® (Asahi Kasei), ELASPAN™ are major brands. Bare elastane degrades under chlorine — specify chlorine-resistant grade for swimwear. 26 TECHNICAL 6 Elastane Specification — Cover Type How the elastane is combined with the core yarn. Affects stretch behavior, fabric thickness, hand-feel, and whether the elastane is visible at the surface. Cover Type — — Bare Elastane (uncovered — for seamless knit, not woven) Single Covered (SC) — one wrap yarn around elastane Double Covered (DC) — two wrap yarns for better coverage Air-Covered (AC / Fasciated) — air jet entanglement, softer Core-Spun (CS) — spun staple around elastane core Not Applicable (no elastane) AC + Nylon 70D for woven stretch activewear (soft hand); DC + 40D for woven swimwear (full coverage); SC + DTY PES for mid-price stretch outerwear Air-covered is the dominant type for woven stretch fabrics. Core-spun applies to cotton blends. Always state cover yarn count + elastane core denier: e.g., AC 70D/40D = 70D Nylon cover over 40D bare elastane. 27 TECHNICAL 7 Thread Count / Fabric Density — EPI Ends Per Inch: number of warp yarns per inch in the finished fabric. Higher EPI = denser, heavier, tighter hand. Critical for downproof and windproof specifications. Ends per inch (EPI) 30 350 30–60 EPI (open / loose — mesh/shade) 60–100 EPI (lightweight / standard) 100–140 EPI (mid-weight, balanced) 140–200 EPI (tight / downproof range) 200–260 EPI (high-count / 300T range) 260–350 EPI (ultra-high / 400T+) 100 EPI + 100 PPI = ~200T fabric; 140 EPI + 140 PPI = ~280T; downproof spec typically requires >180T combined; ripstop grids reduce effective EPI at grid reinforcement T-count (Thread Count) = EPI + PPI. Not the same as the consumer bedding T-count (those use two-ply yarns). ASTM D3775 / ISO 7211-2 for EPI/PPI measurement. 28 TECHNICAL 8 Thread Count / Fabric Density — PPI Picks Per Inch: number of weft yarns per inch. Together with EPI determines overall thread count (T), fabric cover factor, and structural characteristics. Picks per inch (PPI) 30 350 30–60 PPI (open weave) 60–100 PPI (lightweight) 100–140 PPI (mid-weight) 140–200 PPI (tight / performance) 200–260 PPI (high count) 260–350 PPI (ultra-high count) PPI often ≤ EPI in balanced weaves; higher PPI than EPI occurs in filling-faced satins; both must be specified for complete fabric engineering ASTM D3775 / ISO 7211-2. PPI affects fabric elongation in weft direction. Finishing (heat setting, calendering) can alter PPI by ±5–10% from loom setting. 29 TECHNICAL 9 Thread Count — T Notation Combined thread count expressed as T-value (EPI + PPI). Common shorthand for classifying fabric density in the synthetic fabric industry. T count (EPI + PPI) 80 700 T80–T130 (light open weave) T150–T190 (standard lightweight) T190–T230 (mid-grade performance) T230–T300 (premium / downproof base) T300–T400 (high-count technical) T400–T700 (ultra-high count) T190 nylon taffeta for basic linings; T210 PES for windbreakers; T300 for downproof applications; T400+ for premium down jackets and luxury outdoor T-count is fabric industry convention — not ISO-standardized as such. Verify EPI and PPI separately rather than relying solely on T-count declaration from mills. 30 TECHNICAL 10 Fabric Bow Tolerance Maximum allowable curvature of the weft yarns relative to the warp direction, expressed as % of fabric width. Excessive bow causes pattern misalignment and stripe/plaid distortion. % of width 0 3 ≤1% (stripes/plaids — tight tolerance) ≤1.5% (performance fabrics standard) ≤2% (general commercial tolerance) ≤3% (acceptable for solid-color plain weaves) Not specified (solid color fabrics without critical alignment) NaN Striped or plaid fabrics require ≤1% bow; printed fabrics require ≤1.5% to avoid misregistration; high-speed weft insertion on air-jet looms increases bow risk ASTM D3882 / ISO 13015 for bow/skew measurement. Bow is corrected via stenter frame (heat + mechanical tension) during finishing. Persistent bow after finishing indicates loom set-up issue. 31 TECHNICAL 11 Fabric Skew Tolerance Maximum allowable angular distortion of the weft relative to true perpendicular, expressed as % of width. Causes seam twist, hem roll, and garment structural failure in severe cases. % of width 0 3 ≤1% (precision cut / placket / stripe) ≤1.5% (standard performance) ≤2% (general woven) ≤3% (acceptable for solid/plain industrial use) Not specified (if no directional concern) NaN Skew and bow often occur together — must test both. Stretch fabrics (elastane content) more prone to skew. Skew tolerance tighter for garments with vertical pattern matching. Measured per ASTM D3882. Often confused with bow — skew is angular displacement, bow is curvature. Both are reported as % of fabric width measured at specified intervals. 32 TECHNICAL 12 Dimensional Stability — Heat Setting Temperature and duration at which synthetic fabric is heat-set on a stenter frame to lock in dimensions, structure, and hand-feel. Critical for synthetics to prevent shrinkage and maintain width. °C / °F + dwell seconds 160 220 160–170°C / 320–338°F (Elastane blends — low temp) 170–185°C / 338–365°F (standard Nylon / PA) 185–200°C / 365–392°F (standard Polyester / PES) 200–215°C / 392–419°F (high-temp PES / dimensional stability) 215–220°C / 419–428°F (coated / laminated — check coat compatibility) Dwell: 20–60 seconds depending on construction PES heat sets best at 185–200°C for dimension stability; Nylon at 170–185°C; elastane blends must not exceed 175°C or elastane degrades; heat setting before dyeing vs. after dyeing has different outcomes ISO 105-X11 for checking heat stability. Over-setting burns yarn; under-setting causes shrinkage in use. For coated fabrics, confirm coating heat resistance before heat setting. 33 TECHNICAL 13 Shrinkage Tolerance — Warp Maximum allowable warp-direction (lengthwise) dimensional change after standard home laundering or specified test wash. Specified as negative % (shrinkage) or positive % (growth). % change (warp) -5 2 0% to -1% (precision / high-performance spec) -1% to -2% (standard athletic / outerwear) -2% to -3% (acceptable commercial) -3% to -5% (loose / casual spec) +0.5% to +2% (growth — common in some knit-weaves) NaN Tight warp shrinkage tolerance paired with high EPI constructions; coated fabrics may have different shrinkage than uncoated base; warp typically shrinks more than weft in woven synthetics ISO 6330 (domestic wash) / AATCC 135 / ISO 5077 (dimensional change). Specify wash temperature: 30°C, 40°C, 60°C. Synthetics should be tested at expected care label temperature. 34 TECHNICAL 14 Shrinkage Tolerance — Weft Maximum allowable weft-direction (crosswise) dimensional change after laundering. Weft often shows more growth than shrinkage in synthetic wovens due to crimp relaxation. % change (weft) -5 3 0% to -1% (precision spec) -1% to -2% (standard) -2% to -3% (commercial acceptable) +0.5% to +2% (growth — common in weft stretch fabrics) +2% to +3% (elastane weft — controlled growth acceptable) NaN Elastane-containing weft fabrics may show growth after first wash (elastane relaxation); non-elastic wovens should show minimal weft change; weft growth can cause finished garment width increase Same test methods as warp: ISO 6330 / AATCC 135. For stretch fabrics, measure both relaxed and extended dimensions. Report separately from warp. 35 TECHNICAL 15 Coating Type Polymer coatings applied to one or both fabric faces to add functional performance (waterproofing, durability, stiffness). Applied via knife-over-roll, gravure, or transfer coating. Coating Chemistry — — PU — Polyurethane (flexible, durable waterproof) TPU — Thermoplastic PU (weldable, PVC-free) Silicone (extreme temp + flexibility) PVC — Polyvinyl Chloride (low cost, stiff, heavy) Acrylic (breathable base coat, softer hand) No Coating (uncoated / DWR-only) PU coating + DWR for outdoor jackets; TPU for welded seam products (rainwear, drybags); Silicone for ultralight tents and down baffles; PVC for heavy-duty tarps and bags; Acrylic for softer light waterproofing PVC contains plasticizers (phthalates) — restricted by REACH and many brands. TPU is the PVC-free premium alternative. Silicone coating not compatible with tape seam bonding. Specify coat weight in g/m². 36 TECHNICAL 16 Coating Weight / Thickness Mass of the coating applied per square meter (g/m²) or thickness in microns/mm. Heavier coatings provide higher waterproofness but reduce breathability and drape. g/m² or microns 5 500 5–15 g/m² (light acrylic / DWR base coat) 15–40 g/m² (light PU for breathable waterproof) 40–100 g/m² (standard PU waterproof) 100–200 g/m² (heavy PU / double coat) 200–500 g/m² (PVC tarpaulin / heavy industrial) Thickness: 0.05–0.5mm typical range 20–40 g/m² PU coat achieves 1,000–5,000mm hydrostatic head; 40–80 g/m² achieves 5,000–10,000mm; heavier coats used for single-layer waterproof without DWR Coating weight measured by weighing fabric before and after coating. ISO 2286-2 for coated fabric mass per unit area. Always specify coat on face vs. back vs. both sides. 37 TECHNICAL 17 Lamination Type Bonding of the fabric to a functional membrane or backing (fleece, mesh, foam). More complex than coating — alters entire fabric hand, weight, and performance envelope. Lamination Type — — 2-layer (face fabric + membrane, no liner) 2.5-layer (face + membrane + printed interior) 3-layer (face + membrane + backer/lining) Fleece back laminate (face + fleece bond) Foam laminate (face + foam scrim for structure) No lamination 3-layer for highest performance outdoor shells; 2-layer for packable rain jackets; 2.5-layer for mid-price waterproof; fleece-back softshell for active insulation; foam for structured bag panels Membrane types: ePTFE (Gore-Tex®), PU microporous, PU hydrophilic monolithic. Lamination method: flame lamination, adhesive dot, hotmelt web. Adhesive choice affects breathability — specify in technical brief. 38 TECHNICAL 18 DWR — Durable Water Repellency Fluoropolymer or fluorocarbon-free chemical treatment applied to fabric face to cause water beading. The first line of defense in waterproofing. DWR alone does not provide waterproofness. DWR Chemistry — — C8 — PFOA/PFOS-based (banned in most markets) C6 — PFAS-based (reduced concern, still restricted by many brands) C0 / PFC-free — Wax or dendrimer-based (Teflon EcoElite, Bionic-Finish Eco) Silicone-based DWR (limited durability) No DWR (unfinished or membrane-reliant) DWR + PU coat (dual protection) C0 DWR + 20 g/m² PU coat for sustainable waterproof outerwear; C0 DWR alone for wind resistant softshell; C6 still used in some performance brands pending full phase-out C8 (PFOA) banned: EU POP Regulation, EPA PFAS action plan, bluesign. C6 restricted by ZDHC MRSL and many brand policies. C0 is the industry direction. Performance of C0 DWR tested per ISO 4920 (Spray Test). Durability tested after multiple wash cycles. 39 TECHNICAL 19 Functional Finish — Moisture Wicking Hydrophilic treatment or yarn structure that enables rapid transport of moisture (sweat) from skin through fabric to outer surface for evaporation. Key for activewear performance. Wicking Performance — — Capillary wicking (structure-based — DTY microfiber) Chemical hydrophilic finish (applied topically) Combination: micro-yarn + hydrophilic coat One-way wicking (moisture moves outward only) Standard wicking (bi-directional moisture transport) Not specified / no wicking requirement DTY microfiber + hydrophilic finish for running shirts; one-way wicking structures used in base layers; wicking performance degrades with DWR treatments — design conflict must be managed Tested per AATCC 195 (Liquid Moisture Management Properties). Reports: wetting time, absorption rate, spreading speed, overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Specify minimum OMMC target (e.g., ≥0.5). 40 TECHNICAL 20 Functional Finish — Anti-Microbial Treatment that inhibits growth of odor-causing bacteria on fabric surface. Critical for high-sweat activewear, workwear, and medical textiles. Must be substantive (durable to washing). Technology — — Silver ion-based (e.g., HeiQ, Sciessent Agion®) Zinc pyrithione-based Chitosan-based (bio-derived) Quaternary ammonium (QUAT) Copper ion-based Not specified / no anti-microbial req. Silver ion + DTY PES for performance activewear; chitosan (bio) for sustainable positioning; copper for medical/workwear; QUATs less common due to residue concerns Tested per AATCC 100 (% reduction) or AATCC 147 (zone of inhibition). Must pass after 50+ wash cycles for performance brands. Nanosilver restricted in some EU and OEKO-TEX scope items — verify compliance. 41 TECHNICAL 21 Functional Finish — UPF Rating Ultraviolet Protection Factor: measure of fabric's ability to block UV radiation (both UVA and UVB). Relevant for outdoor and sportswear categories. UPF Rating 15 50 UPF 15–24 (good UV protection) UPF 25–39 (very good UV protection) UPF 40–50 (excellent UV protection) UPF 50+ (maximum rated protection) Not tested / not required NaN High thread count + tight weave naturally increases UPF (T300+ PES taffeta can achieve UPF 30–50 without finishing); dark colors increase UPF vs. light colors; wet fabric UPF may differ from dry AS/NZS 4399 (Australian/NZ — most rigorous), AATCC 183, EN 13758. Must test after washing (durability claim). Coating and lamination generally improve UPF. UV stabilizer finish available as additive. 42 TECHNICAL 22 Functional Finish — Anti-Static Treatment reducing static electricity buildup on synthetic fabric surfaces. Critical for electronics-adjacent applications, explosives-safe workwear, and comfort in dry climates. Technology / ESD Level — — Topical anti-static finish (temporary, wash-off) Durable anti-static finish (surfactant-based) Conductive carbon fiber interlace (permanent ESD) Metallic yarn integration (grid pattern) ESD: EN 1149-5 / ATEX zone compliant Not required Anti-static finish on microfiber lining for electronics workwear; conductive yarn grid for ATEX explosive environments; standard anti-static for comfort in dry climate activewear EN 1149-1 (surface resistance), EN 1149-3 (charge decay) for protective workwear. AATCC 134 for static propensity. Wash durability critical — specify minimum wash cycles for claim. 43 TECHNICAL 23 Edge Construction — Fabric Roll How the fabric edge (selvedge) is finished at the loom or during cutting/slitting. Affects unraveling, seam allowance use, and downstream cutting room handling. Edge Type — — Tucked selvedge (woven loops — standard loom) Ultrasonic slit (heat-fused clean edge — no fraying) Hot-knife slit (melted edge for synthetics) Tape-bound selvedge (ribbon sewn to edge) Raw slit / scissor cut (temporary, for samples) Not specified Ultrasonic slit standard for technical synthetic outerwear rolls; hot-knife common for nylon taffeta rolls; tucked selvedge on shuttleless rapier looms; tape-bound for premium roll presentation Ultrasonic and hot-knife edges critical for synthetics — prevents yarn pullout during cutting. Verify edge width consumed by slit is accounted for in cuttable width spec. Some coatings can jam ultrasonic slitters. --- Sheet: Testing Specifications --- SYNTHETIC WOVEN FABRIC — TESTING SPECIFICATIONS MASTER INDEX Unnamed: 1 Unnamed: 2 Unnamed: 3 Unnamed: 4 Unnamed: 5 Unnamed: 6 Unnamed: 7 Unnamed: 8 Unnamed: 9 Unnamed: 10 Unnamed: 11 Unnamed: 12 Unnamed: 13 Unnamed: 14 0 Use this sheet to define brand-specific testing requirements. Fill the Brand columns (J onward) with: REQUIRED / OPTIONAL / N/A — and add pass/fail thresholds per brand. NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 1 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 2 # Test Name Category Standard Body(ies) Standard Code(s) Methodology & Purpose Reported Metric / Units Typical Threshold Range Synthetic-Specific Notes Columbia / MHW Fanatics Alo Yoga VF Corp / TNF Brand E Brand F 3 ← Core Test Reference Data NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN ← BRAND REQUIREMENTS: REQUIRED | OPTIONAL | N/A | NOT SPECIFIED — Threshold notes in each cell NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 4 ▌ PHYSICAL & MECHANICAL STRENGTH NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 5 1 Breaking Strength (Grab) Physical & Mechanical Strength ASTM / ISO ASTM D5034 / ISO 13934-2 A strip of fabric is held in two clamps (grab method) and pulled until rupture. Measures peak force at break in warp and weft directions separately. N / lbf (warp & weft) Apparel: ≥200N; Outerwear: ≥350N; Bags/Luggage: ≥800N Synthetic filament yarns show higher breaking strength than spun; high-tenacity Nylon 6.6 provides superior strength-to-weight ratio over PES. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL per product type NOT SPECIFIED\n⚠ Fanatics policy = Traceability / Chain of Custody\nNo performance test thresholds specified\nRequires: materials match Raw Material Data Sheet specs within industry tolerances (incl. fiber COO) REQUIRED\nSGS or accredited 3rd-party lab\nTest from black bulk production yardage\nSpecify end-use: Loose Fit or Tight Fit\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual (not published here) REQUIRED\nPerformance Testing per Brand Performance Manual\n(e.g., TNF, Vans, Timberland have individual manuals)\nSMS stage + Bulk Production stage\nVia Interlink platform — VF nominated 3rd party labs only NaN NaN 6 2 Breaking Strength (Strip) Physical & Mechanical Strength ASTM / ISO ASTM D5035 / ISO 13934-1 Full-width fabric strip (50mm wide) is pulled to rupture. More reproducible than grab method. Preferred for technical specifications in performance fabrics. N / lbf (warp & weft) Sportswear: ≥150N; Technical outerwear: ≥300N; Industrial: ≥600N Strip method recommended for coated and laminated fabrics where grab results are influenced by the coating stiffness rather than base fabric. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package per Care Code\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual\nTwo-stage testing: SMS + Bulk NaN NaN 7 3 Tear Strength (Elmendorf) Physical & Mechanical Strength ASTM / ISO ASTM D1424 / ISO 13937-1 A pendulum-driven blade propagates a pre-cut slit in the fabric. Measures resistance to tearing force in both warp and weft. Critical for outdoor and activewear durability. N / gf (warp & weft) Lightweight: ≥10N; Outerwear: ≥25N; Bags: ≥50N Ripstop weave dramatically increases tear strength vs. plain weave of same yarn denier. Coatings can increase or decrease tear strength depending on coat weight and adhesion. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 8 4 Tear Strength (Trapezoid / Tongue) Physical & Mechanical Strength ASTM / ISO ASTM D5587 / ISO 13937-2 Two parallel cuts define a trapezoidal sample; force is applied to propagate the tear in a defined direction. More representative of real-world tear propagation in seam areas. N / lbf Standard: ≥30N; Performance: ≥50N; Heavy duty: ≥80N Preferred for evaluating seam area tear behavior. Should be used in conjunction with seam slippage tests for slippery synthetic fabrics. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 9 5 Bursting Strength (Ball Burst) Physical & Mechanical Strength ASTM / ISO ASTM D6797 / ISO 13938-1 A steel ball is pushed through a fabric specimen at a constant rate. Measures multi-directional resistance to puncture/burst — critical for stretch fabrics where biaxial loading occurs. N / lbf Activewear: ≥300N; Technical: ≥500N; Safety: ≥700N More relevant than strip tear for knitted-structure wovens and elastane-containing fabrics where loading is not strictly uniaxial. Report alongside warp/weft results. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 10 6 Abrasion Resistance (Martindale) Physical & Mechanical Strength ISO / ASTM ISO 12947-2 / ASTM D4966 Fabric is abraded in a figure-8 (Lissajous) motion against standard wool abradant under specified load. Results reported as number of cycles to hole formation or specified mass loss. Cycles to failure / mass loss % Casual: 5,000 cyc; Outerwear: 20,000 cyc; Upholstery: 50,000 cyc Nylon significantly outperforms PES in Martindale abrasion (typically 2-3× more cycles). Peach finish reduces abrasion resistance — re-test after finishing. PES microfiber can fibrillate under abrasion. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package (Martindale specified) REQUIRED\nMartindale per VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 11 7 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED\nWyzenbeek not referenced; Martindale is standard OPTIONAL\nWyzenbeek if brand specifically requires (US brands) NaN NaN 12 ▌ SYNTHETIC-SPECIFIC STRUCTURAL NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 13 8 Seam Slippage Synthetic-Specific Structural ISO / ASTM ISO 13936-1 & -2 / ASTM D4034 A seam is sewn at specified stitch density in warp and weft directions. Force is applied perpendicular to the seam to pull yarns through the seam. Reports force at specified displacement (6mm typical). N at 6mm opening Woven: ≥100N standard; Outerwear: ≥150N; Technical: ≥200N Critical for slippery filament synthetics (FDY Nylon taffeta, PES satin). High-density weaves (T300+) reduce slippage risk. Seam slippage failure common at underarm, crotch, and high-stress points. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 14 9 Snagging Resistance (Mace Snag Test) Synthetic-Specific Structural ASTM / ISO ASTM D3939 / ISO 12945-1 (Mace) A fabric sample wrapped on a cylinder is tumbled with a mace (spiked ball) in a rotating drum. Snagging is rated visually on a 1–5 scale after a set number of rotations. Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best) ≥3.0 for general apparel; ≥4.0 for premium/performance Synthetics are inherently snag-prone due to continuous filament structure — a single pulled filament can run. Low filament count yarns (e.g., 70D/24F) snag more than high-F microfiber (70D/144F). NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 15 10 Pilling Resistance (Martindale Box) Synthetic-Specific Structural ISO / ASTM ISO 12945-2 / ASTM D4970 Fabric is rubbed against itself (Martindale motion) or against standard fabric. Pills are rated visually on a 1–5 scale after specified cycle intervals. DTY yarns are high-risk for pilling. Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best) ≥3.0 at 2,000 cycles casual; ≥4.0 at 5,000 cycles performance DTY PES and ATY fabrics have highest pilling risk. FDY fabrics pill less due to smoother filament surface. Anti-pilling finish (shearing, singeing, chemical) can be applied post-weave. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — full package REQUIRED\nPer VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 16 11 Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) Synthetic-Specific Structural ASTM ASTM D3512 Fabric samples tumble freely in a cylindrical chamber lined with cork. This random tumble method simulates real-use pilling more aggressively than the Martindale method. Rating 1 (worst) to 5 (best) ≥3.0 at standard cycles Commonly used for fleece and DTY face fabrics in the US market. Harsher than Martindale — results not directly equivalent. Specify which test when citing pilling results. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nUS market brands may use Random Tumble; Alo defaults to Martindale OPTIONAL\nRandom Tumble per brand requirement NaN NaN 17 12 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 18 ▌ COLORFASTNESS NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 19 13 Colorfastness to Washing Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-C06 / AATCC 61 Fabric is washed at a specified temperature with standard detergent and steel balls. Color change in the specimen and staining on multifiber adjacent fabric are rated on a grey scale (1–5). Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best) Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4 depending on brand Disperse dye on PES requires high-temp wash test (60°C) to simulate thermofixation limits. Nylon (acid dye) is generally more wash-fast but susceptible to pH extremes. REQUIRED\nMWW: ISO 105 C10-A1 @ 40°C\nStaining ≥4 | Color Change ≥4\nIf fail MWW → run MWC AATCC 61-2A @ 30°C ≥4 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS full package per Care Code\nThresholds in Alo Testing Manual REQUIRED\nCF to Washing: Per VF RSL Implementation Manual 2026\nAnnually; all colorways\nVia Interlink — VF nominated labs only NaN NaN 20 14 Colorfastness to Light (Xenon Arc) Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-B02 / AATCC 16 Fabric is exposed to a xenon arc lamp simulating solar radiation for defined periods (20–40 hours or AFU). Color change is rated against Blue Wool scale (1–8) or Grey Scale. Blue wool scale 1 (worst) to 8 (best) Casual: ≥4 BWS; Outdoor: ≥5–6 BWS; Military/UV: ≥7 PES has inherently good lightfastness due to disperse dye affinity. Nylon acid dyes are more prone to fading. Cationic (CDP) dyes on PES provide deep shades but may have lower lightfastness — test critical. REQUIRED\nISO 105 B02, Blue Wool 4, Method 3\nDark/Medium (L<66.66): endpoint shade 3 → min ≥3.5\nPastel/Light (L≥66.66): min ≥3\nKnit only: ISO 105 B07/GB-T14576, BW4, endpoint 4.5 → ≥3 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — lightfastness included in full package REQUIRED\nCF to Light: Per VF RSL Implementation Manual 2026\nAll colors tested per matrix NaN NaN 21 15 Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry) Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-X12 / AATCC 8 A white test cloth is rubbed against the fabric surface (dry condition) with a crockmeter under defined load and number of strokes. Staining of white cloth is rated on grey scale. Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best) Dry crocking: ≥4 minimum; ≥4–5 for premium brands Dry crocking failure most common with dark disperse dyes on PES that have not been properly reduced-cleared. Crocking worsens on surfaces with topical finishes that trap surface dye. REQUIRED\nDry Crocking: ISO 105 X12\nGeneral & Dark: Dry ≥3.5\nGeneral & Light: Dry ≥4\nPrints/YD/GD/Lining/Fleece/Sanded/Flocked/Light: Dry ≥3.5\nLining/Fleece Dark: Dry ≥3.5 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — dry crocking REQUIRED\nDry Crocking: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 22 16 Colorfastness to Crocking (Wet) Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-X12 / AATCC 8 (wet condition) Same as dry crocking but the crockmeter cloth is wetted before the test. Wet crocking is always lower than dry — represents worst-case sweat/rain contact scenario. Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best) Wet crocking: ≥3 standard; ≥3–4 performance; ≥4 premium Wet crocking is the most sensitive test — drives dye selection and fixation process. Critical for swimwear and rain jackets. Poor wet crocking can contaminate white inner linings. REQUIRED\nWet Crocking: ISO 105 X12\nGeneral & Dark: Wet ≥2.5\nGeneral & Light: Wet ≥3\nPrints/YD/GD/Lining/Fleece/Sanded/Flocked/Light: Wet ≥3\nLining/Fleece Dark: Wet ≥2.5 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — wet crocking REQUIRED\nWet Crocking: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 23 17 Colorfastness to Perspiration (Acid) Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-E04 / AATCC 15 Fabric is immersed in artificial acid perspiration solution (pH 5.5), placed in contact with multifiber adjacent fabric, and pressed under load at 37°C for 4 hours. Color change and staining rated. Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best) Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4 Acid perspiration is most critical for Nylon (acid dye) — sweat can re-activate acid dye and cause staining on adjacent fabrics or skin. Test both acid and alkaline perspiration. REQUIRED\nPerspiration: ISO 105 E04 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — perspiration acid REQUIRED\nPerspiration Acid: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 24 18 Colorfastness to Perspiration (Alkaline) Colorfastness ISO / AATCC ISO 105-E04 / AATCC 15 Same procedure as acid perspiration test but using alkaline solution (pH 8.0). Together, acid + alkaline tests cover the full pH range of human perspiration conditions. Grey scale 1 (worst) to 5 (best) Change: ≥4; Staining: ≥3–4 Alkaline perspiration can affect disperse dye on PES more than acid — dye alkaline hydrolysis. Both acid and alkaline tests should always be run as a pair for activewear fabrics. REQUIRED\nPerspiration Alkaline: ISO 105 E04 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — perspiration alkaline REQUIRED\nPerspiration Alkaline: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 25 19 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN REQUIRED\nWater: ISO 105 E01 (ALL)\nStaining ≥3 | Color Change ≥4 NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — water REQUIRED\nWater CF: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 26 ▌ SYNTHETIC-SPECIFIC COLOR NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 27 20 Sublimation Fastness (Heat Transfer / Storage) Synthetic-Specific Color ISO ISO 105-P01 / ISO 105-P02 Fabric is placed in contact with acetate or PES adjacent fabric and subjected to dry heat pressure (150–210°C). Evaluates dye migration from the fabric to adjacent materials during storage or heat pressing. Grey scale rating 1–5 ≥4 for standard; ≥4–5 for garments with white adjacents PES disperse dyes are inherently volatile at heat — sublimation is the primary cause of color contamination in storage (e.g., dark Poly lining staining white shell). Requires high fixation and reduction clearing. REQUIRED\nSublimation risk on PES disperse dye\nRequires reduction clearing; no explicit limit in TCM but CF testing covers this indirectly NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS testing — sublimation fastness on PES\nHeat Transfer testing explicitly listed in development flow REQUIRED\nSublimation: Per VF RSL IM 2026\nIncluded in annual RSL package NaN NaN 28 21 Phenolic Yellowing (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) Synthetic-Specific Color ISO / AATCC ISO 105-X18 / AATCC 23 White or light-colored fabric is sealed in a plastic bag (simulating storage in poly bags) with a phenolic-impregnated paper. BHT from polyethylene bags reacts with optical brighteners or certain finishes to cause yellowing. Grey scale change rating 1–5 No yellowing: change ≤1 grade (≥4–5 required) Extremely common defect in white and light PES fabrics stored in polyethylene bags. DWR finishes can accelerate phenolic yellowing. Must test all white/ivory/light fabrics. Use BHT-free poly bags as mitigation. REQUIRED\nStore RCS in acid-free and BHT-free containers\nPhenolic yellowing is a documented concern NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nIncluded in SGS full package REQUIRED\nPhenolic Yellowing: Per VF RSL IM 2026 NaN NaN 29 22 Water Spotting / Water Staining Synthetic-Specific Color AATCC AATCC 104 Drops of distilled water are placed on the fabric surface and allowed to dry. Any change in shade or surface appearance (ring mark, spotting) is evaluated by comparison with original fabric. Rating / visual comparison No visible change after drying for most applications Critical for cire-finished taffetas, lustered PES, and DWR-treated fabrics where water drops can leave permanent tide marks. High-gloss or calendered fabrics are most sensitive. NOT SPECIFIED\nNot explicitly listed in TCM NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nCase by case depending on finish OPTIONAL\nPer brand requirement and finish type NaN NaN 30 23 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nSwimwear / active wash fabrics OPTIONAL\nSwimwear / chlorinated water products NaN NaN 31 ▌ DIMENSIONAL STABILITY NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 32 24 Dimensional Change — Domestic Washing Dimensional Stability ISO / AATCC ISO 6330 / AATCC 135 Fabric specimens with marked measurements are subjected to specified wash and dry cycles. Dimensions are re-measured and percentage change calculated in warp and weft directions separately. % change (warp & weft) Warp: ≤-3%; Weft: ≤-3% (standard); ≤-2% premium Synthetics are generally more dimensionally stable than naturals but may show growth after first wash (elastane relaxation). Specify test temperature: 30°C, 40°C, or 60°C to match care label. NOT SPECIFIED\nDimensional specs in RMM/RMTL NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS full package per Care Code\nShrinkage tested under appropriate care code REQUIRED\nDimensional stability: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\nSeasonal or annual per brand schedule NaN NaN 33 25 Dimensional Change — Dry Cleaning Dimensional Stability ISO / AATCC ISO 3175-1 / AATCC 158 Fabric is subjected to commercial dry cleaning processes. Dimensional change measured pre- and post-treatment in both warp and weft. Required when care label includes dry clean option. % change ≤-2% for dry-clean labeled fabrics Less relevant for most synthetics (dry cleaning not standard for PES/Nylon activewear) but required for performance fabrics used in luxury or professional contexts. N/A\nNot typical for CSC product range NOT SPECIFIED N/A\nNot standard for Alo activewear NaN NaN NaN 34 26 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nHeat transfer testing explicitly in Alo RMID Step 11 REQUIRED\nHeat shrinkage: Per VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 35 ▌ PERFORMANCE & WEATHER PROTECTION NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 36 27 Water Repellency — Spray Test Performance & Weather Protection ISO / AATCC ISO 4920 / AATCC 22 Water is sprayed from a fixed nozzle onto a taut fabric specimen at 45°. Water beading is rated on a 0–100 scale (or 0–5) by comparison with photographic standards. Reports initial and after-wash DWR performance. Rating 0–100 (ISO) or 0–5 (AATCC); or: No/1/2/3/4/5 Initial: 80–100 (ISO) / ≥4 (AATCC); After 20W: ≥70/≥3 Tests DWR performance, not waterproofness. Rate must be measured initially AND after 5, 10, 20 wash cycles to evaluate DWR durability. C0 DWR typically shows faster initial decline than C6. NOT SPECIFIED\nRefer to RMM/RMTL per product NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nDWR-treated fabrics only REQUIRED\nDWR Spray Test: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\nC0 / PFC-free DWR — CHEM-IQ STA compliance required NaN NaN 37 28 Hydrostatic Head (Water Column / Pressure) Performance & Weather Protection ISO / ASTM ISO 811 / ASTM D751 Water pressure is applied to the fabric surface at a constant rate of increase until water penetrates through 3 points. Measured in millimeters of water column (mmH₂O) or Pa. Defines waterproofness level. mmH₂O / Pa Wind resistant: 500–1,500mm; Rain: 1,500–5,000mm; High performance: 5,000–20,000mm+ Hydrostatic head measures coating/laminate waterproofness — DWR alone provides no hydrostatic head. Seam sealing is required for waterproof garments as seams typically have zero hydrostatic resistance. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nOuterwear / waterproof fabrics REQUIRED\nHydrostatic Head: Per VF Brand Performance Manual\n(outerwear / waterproof categories) NaN NaN 38 29 Air Permeability Performance & Weather Protection ISO / ASTM ISO 9237 / ASTM D737 Air flow rate through fabric is measured under a specified pressure differential (100 Pa typical). Reports in cm³/cm²/s or L/m²/s. Determines windproofness — critical for windbreakers and down baffles. cm³/cm²/s or L/m²/s Windproof: <3 cm³/cm²/s; Down-proof: <1 cm³/cm²/s; Breathable shell: 5–50 cm³/cm²/s Downproof rating requires: tight weave (T300+) AND air permeability <1 cm³/cm²/s. Coatings reduce air permeability to near zero. DWR alone does not affect air permeability significantly. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nWind-resistant / outerwear applications REQUIRED\nAir Permeability: Per VF Brand Performance Manual NaN NaN 39 30 MVTR / Breathability (Upright Cup Method) Performance & Weather Protection ISO / ASTM ISO 11092 / ASTM E96 (Method B) Water vapor transmission through fabric is measured using an upright cup of water at 38°C / 90% RH. Reports in g/m²/24h. Higher value = more breathable. Relevant for waterproof-breathable membranes. g/m²/24h Low: <3,000; Moderate: 3,000–8,000; High: 8,000–20,000; Ultra: >20,000 ISO 11092 (Ret method) is most relevant for next-to-skin performance. ASTM E96B (cup method) gives higher absolute values — the two are not interchangeable. Specify which method when citing MVTR. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nOuterwear / breathable membrane fabrics OPTIONAL\nMVTR Cup: Per brand requirement for waterproof-breathable NaN NaN 40 31 MVTR / Breathability (Sweating Guarded Hotplate — ISO 11092) Performance & Weather Protection ISO ISO 11092 (Ret measurement) Evaporative resistance (Ret) of a fabric is measured on a heated, sweating plate under controlled conditions. Lower Ret = more breathable. The gold standard for functional breathability rating. Ret (m²·Pa/W) Highly breathable: <6 Ret; Breathable: 6–13 Ret; Low breathability: >20 Ret ISO 11092 Ret is the industry standard for waterproof-breathable membranes (Gore-Tex, eVent, etc.). Must also measure thermal resistance (Rct). Report both Ret and Rct for complete performance profile. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nMembrane / technical fabrics (ISO 11092 Ret) OPTIONAL\nISO 11092 Ret: For membrane products NaN NaN 41 32 NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED NaN OPTIONAL\nDownproof: For down-filled products NaN NaN 42 ▌ CHEMICAL, SAFETY & ECO NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN NaN 43 33 pH Value of Fabric Extract Chemical, Safety & Eco ISO / AATCC ISO 3071 / AATCC 81 Fabric is extracted in distilled water and the pH of the extract is measured. Extreme pH (very acidic or alkaline) can irritate skin and indicates residual processing chemicals. pH units Apparel: pH 4.0–7.5 (skin-safe range per OEKO-TEX) Synthetic fabrics from acid or disperse dyeing can retain acidic residuals (pH <4). DWR chemistry can also affect pH. pH must be tested on finished fabric with all applied finishes. NOT SPECIFIED\npH per RMM/RMTL REQUIRED\npH compliance required under applicable law\n(CPSIA for US; REACH/OEKO-TEX equivalent for EU) REQUIRED\nSGS full package includes pH\nOEKO-TEX range pH 4.0–7.5 target REQUIRED\npH: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nRSL failures: non-negotiable, CAP required\nNo MA for RSL or Product Safety failures NaN NaN 44 34 Formaldehyde Content Chemical, Safety & Eco ISO / AATCC / JIS ISO 14184-1 / AATCC 112 / JIS L 1041 Fabric is extracted in water and formaldehyde content is measured by colorimetric spectrophotometry. Formaldehyde is used in some wrinkle-resist and cross-linking finishes. ppm (mg/kg) Baby: <20ppm; Skin contact: <75ppm; Non-skin: <300ppm (OEKO-TEX limits) Most synthetic fabrics have low inherent formaldehyde. Risk arises from certain functional finishes (anti-wrinkle, flame retardant). JIS L 1041 is particularly rigorous — required for Japanese market. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS full package REQUIRED\nFormaldehyde: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nCAP required for failure\nJIS L1041 for Japan market NaN NaN 45 35 Heavy Metals Content Chemical, Safety & Eco ISO / EN ISO 105-E04 (extractable) / EN ISO 17072 Fabric is extracted in artificial sweat or acid solution and heavy metal concentrations are measured by ICP-MS or AAS. Covers: Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr), Arsenic (As), Mercury (Hg), etc. mg/kg (ppm) per metal Per OEKO-TEX 100 / REACH Annex XVII limits (varies per metal) Heavy metals enter through dyes (metal-complex dyes on Nylon), mordants, and pigments. Chromium from some leather-adjacent processing. Always test on finished, dyed fabric. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nSGS full package — heavy metals REQUIRED\nHeavy Metals: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nCAP required for failure NaN NaN 46 36 Banned Azo Dyes Chemical, Safety & Eco EU / ISO REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 Annex XVII / ISO 14362-1 Fabric is extracted in artificial sweat solution and analyzed by GC-MS for 24 banned aromatic amines that can be released by azo dye cleavage. Linked to carcinogenic risk. mg/kg per amine Each restricted amine: <30 mg/kg (EU REACH limit) Banned azo dyes are regulated under EU REACH Annex XVII — mandatory for EU import. Some disperse dyes used on PES are azo-based; acid dyes on Nylon carry risk. Run on all colored fabrics; required for OEKO-TEX certification. REQUIRED\nREACH compliance required for EU market; RSL per VF/brand standards REQUIRED\nBanned Azo Dyes: Required under REACH Annex XVII (EU)\nand CPSIA (US children's products)\nCAP required for any failure REQUIRED\nSGS full package — banned azo dyes\nRSL failures are acted upon — marginal acceptance reviews\nper RMID Step 11 REQUIRED\nBanned Azo Dyes: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nRSL FAILURE = NON-NEGOTIABLE\nCAP required; product rejected NaN NaN 47 37 Fluorocarbon / PFC Content (DWR) Chemical, Safety & Eco ISO / CEN ISO 25101 / EN 17tbd; LC-MS/MS Method Fabric is extracted and analyzed by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) to detect and quantify per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) including PFOA, PFOS, and C6 fluorotelomers. ng/m² or µg/m² per compound PFOA: <1µg/m²; PFOS: <1µg/m²; Total PFAS target: <1µg/m² per bluesign Mandatory for brands claiming PFC-free or C0 DWR. Required for bluesign, ZDHC MRSL, and many brand chemical compliance programs. Tests distinguish total PFAS vs. specific restricted compounds. NOT SPECIFIED SEE NOTES\nPFC/Fluorocarbon: Policy requires compliance with all applicable laws\n→ PFOA/PFOS restrictions apply under EPA / EU POPs Reg REQUIRED\nPFC/Fluorocarbon in SGS full package\nAlo RMID Step 11: exception agreements signed for any approved deviations REQUIRED\nPFC / Fluorocarbon: VF RSL 2026 + CHEM-IQ STA\nC8 (PFOA/PFOS) prohibited\nC6 restricted; C0 required per CHEM-IQ STA\nCAP required for failure NaN NaN 48 38 Restricted Substances — Pesticides Chemical, Safety & Eco OEKO-TEX / ISO OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Annex 6 / ISO 11085 Fabric is extracted and analyzed for residual pesticide and herbicide content. More relevant for natural fibers but required for synthetic-natural blends and recycled fibers from agricultural post-consumer streams. mg/kg per compound Per OEKO-TEX 100 limits (substance-specific) Most relevant for recycled content fabrics (rPET from agricultural packaging, post-consumer blends). Pure virgin PES/Nylon generally have very low pesticide risk. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nFor recycled content / rPET fabrics REQUIRED\nPesticides: VF RSL 2026 — per matrix\nRSL failure non-negotiable NaN NaN 49 39 Flame Retardancy (FR) — Vertical Burn Chemical, Safety & Eco ASTM / ISO ASTM D6413 / ISO 15025 Fabric specimen is suspended vertically and a defined flame is applied for specified time. After-flame time, afterglow time, and char length are measured. Required for workwear, children's sleepwear, and FR applications. Char length (mm); After-flame (s) Children's sleepwear (US): CPSC 1615/1616; FR workwear: NFPA 2112 / EN ISO 11612 Inherent FR fibers (meta-aramid, modacrylic) vs. FR finish on PES. FR finish on PES is not durable to repeated washing — must test after wash cycles. Untreated PES melts/drips rather than burning. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nIf product carries FR claim or meets end-use requiring FR REQUIRED\nFlammability: VF Brand Performance Manual\nVendor must obtain FR test from fabric supplier\nCPSIA for US; GB standard for China NaN NaN 50 40 Restricted Flame Retardant Chemicals Chemical, Safety & Eco EU / REACH REACH SVHC List / EU POPs Regulation; GC-MS analysis Fabric is extracted and analyzed for restricted halogenated flame retardants (e.g., PBDE, TRIS, HBCDD) that are banned under EU REACH or US CPSIA despite providing flame resistance. mg/kg per compound Per REACH Annex XVII / SVHC thresholds (often <1000 ppm or <0.1%) Some FR finishes contain restricted halogenated compounds — must be confirmed absent even when FR performance is required. Non-halogenated FR systems (phosphorus-based) are the compliant alternative. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nRestricted FR chemicals in SGS package REQUIRED\nRestricted FR Chemicals: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nHalogenated FR compounds: non-negotiable failure NaN NaN 51 41 Nickel Release (Metal Hardware Adjacent) Chemical, Safety & Eco EU / EN EN 1811 / EU Nickel Directive 94/27/EC For fabrics with metal components or metal-adjacent coatings, nickel release rate is tested by simulated sweat extraction. Relevant for buckles, zippers, rivets, and metallic-coated fabrics. µg/cm²/week <0.5 µg/cm²/week for skin-contact items (EU Nickel Directive) Directly applies to fabric only when metallic coatings (foil printing, metallic yarn) are used. Otherwise applies to trims — verify with trim/hardware test reports. NOT SPECIFIED NOT SPECIFIED OPTIONAL\nIf metallic coating/trim in design REQUIRED\nNickel Release: VF RSL 2026 — per matrix\nApplicable when metallic components present NaN NaN 52 42 Allergenic Disperse Dyes Chemical, Safety & Eco Oeko-Tex / EU OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Annex 4; HPLC analysis Fabric is extracted and analyzed for a panel of allergenic disperse dyes (e.g., Disperse Blue 1, 35, 102, 106, 124; Disperse Yellow 3, Orange 37/76) known to cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. mg/kg per dye Each: <50 mg/kg (OEKO-TEX Standard 100 limit) Specific to synthetic (PES, Nylon, Acetate) fabrics — disperse dyes are not used on natural fibers. Critical for skin-contact products. Mandatory for OEKO-TEX 100 certification of PES fabrics. REQUIRED\nAllergenic disperse dyes on PES documented concern; per OEKO-TEX 100 limits NOT SPECIFIED REQUIRED\nAllergenic disperse dyes — SGS package REQUIRED\nAllergenic Disperse Dyes: VF RSL 2026 — annually\nFor all synthetic (PES/PA) fabrics\nRSL failure non-negotiable NaN NaN